Trailer Parts Sources

I am comparing single to tandem, not the general theory. I'm not sure how well this applies though since these boats are relatively light.

I know it's supposed to be 10% tongue weight, but it sure seems like you can get away with less than that on a tandem.

BuffaloBFN wrote: It may be a touch low in the front. I've only done a backyard assesment of the the tongue weight, and I did shine a couple of links on the safety chain last w/e. The flip side is where the prop guard rides; it seems to like where it is. I thought the brakes were transferring the heat(not more than slightly warm)? They worked great!

I can only tell you from my experience that all 4 of my hubs ran the same temp. In cooler weather they ran cold, in warm/hot temps they run a little warmer. No difference between the axles though- and my brakes were a little grabby, if anything.

You do want the trailer sitting perfectly level, though. Tongue weight is more a function of where the boat sits front to back on the trailer (where the bow stop is positioned). Sitting level is a function of your hitch height- I know some guys have to run a pretty tall riser (drop hitch inverted) to get their CC/Ramlin trailers level. Alot depends on the tow vehicle, obviously.

Ive never seen an older CC tandem up close- but there are several BFN's in the diaries on them. I bet they tow nice- I always loved how mine tracked on the highway.

Greg, how level does your trailer ride? I got mine to sit pretty evenly and all my hubs would stay the same temp- the brakes on the front axle didnt seem to have any effect. Im wondering if yours is a little nose-low?

Thanks again for everyone's help. I have new bearings and races in 4 hubs, 2 with newly turned drums. I also have the new actuator and brake assemblies.

The only real problem on installation(except for 1 side parked against the garage!) was the fittings in the backs of the wheel cylinders. I guess they had a right to fuss after 20 years.

We also pumped a lot of nastyness out of the lines(Amy is a trooper!). I guess in the perfect world I would have replaced the lines, though we kept after it until it came through clear.

Now it's ready for planting.

a race should never be loose/spin if it does it's the wrong size or the bore is junk

I was always taught to use the right tools for the job, but then not everyone learns from a ASE Master Technician either or has to worry about the customer coming back because you half assed it and they broke down.


I've always used the proper equipement for the last 30 years with no customer break downs

I'm all squared away except for something I was going to put over on Pete's 'Murphy's Law' thread. I have 1 race that has the right part # on it, but it rattles around like a BB in a box car in its bore.

It's not the bore as I tried more than 1...

I have found the best tool to seat the race, is what we all have in our tool boxes. Look for the proper size socket that will fit just inside. You can start with using your old race to center the new one and then switch to the socket. You can use the same socket or the next bigger size to set your oil seal. Works great everytime.

The hardest part is getting them started. If you can do that, then keep tapping evenly around in a circle - they will go in straight. They are pretty hard steel & you aren't going to distort them.

Per Joel's bearing write up on PN I also use an old race with a block of wood on top of that to drive the new one in. Seems to work and Alan even trusted one of them down to Alabama to get that Hurricane.

you should actually take it and have the races installed properly, piece of wood isn't going to get it, IMO, most parts stores have the tools on hand and you can rent it or borrow it on the spot. You need to make sure the the race is seated properly in the hub, both of them on each hub. It's a simple tool that is cut to match up with the od and taper of the race so that it is driven in squarely otherwise you have major issue down the road. bearings are not something to take litely and when install wrong fail quickly and usually take other parts out with them when it fails.

BuffaloBFN wrote: LOLOL Alan...thought you were yanking my chain on beefwood! Beefwood=bloodwood? (still laughing) Got it covered!

That's the stuff, thinks it's also called ironwood. It's harder than steel, I have a 2x2x12" piece that i've had in my tool box for a decade.

BuffaloBFN wrote: I don't have a drift but used something similar I think. What's the proper tool to put them back with w/o buying a $100 kit?

Don't know about the proper "tool" but a nice block of hardwood will do. I have a favorite stick of beefwood that I use for lots of things in the garage.

Greg, if you have any doubt about the races just knock them out with a drift and tap in the new ones, make sure they're seated all the way to the shoulder.   If there's any pitting replace them otherwise most people don't bother.

I also recommend driving the trailer for a few miles before taking the trip to FL and checking tp make sure you've got the spindle nut snugged up enough. I always seem to get another 1/4 turn or so after doing this even with preloading them. Jack the trailer off the ground and try to wiggle the wheel, if any slop I tighten up a bit.