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proper prop installation

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geecee View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote geecee Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: proper prop installation
    Posted: December-01-2016 at 8:49am
Thanks,
1983 Ski Nautique '2001'
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-30-2016 at 8:10am
Brass


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77 Tique

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Keep it original, Pete
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geecee View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote geecee Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-30-2016 at 8:08am
Just pulled my prop to have it rebuilt and after reading this thread realized it had a stainless nylock on, I did not have any issues taking it off, but when I reinstall I would like to get the right thing.

What should I get if not stainless?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TedR Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-16-2016 at 6:23pm

Delta even threw in some gratis beer coozies!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-16-2016 at 4:33pm
Originally posted by Duane in Indy Duane in Indy wrote:

Pete, We used to lap horse shoes before the car came along.
(BTW we are only about 2 years apart)

Duane,
I knew I'd get you up from that afternoon nap!
I've heard that lapping went back before the pyramids were built. Sand was placed between stones to be fitted together, then one was moved back and forth and the high spots would get ground off.   


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Duane in Indy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-16-2016 at 4:22pm
Pete, We used to lap horse shoes before the car came along.
(BTW we are only about 2 years apart)
Keep it as original as YOU want it
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-16-2016 at 3:36pm
Mark,
Thanks for the compliment but I wasn't the one who started the practice. Notices came with the Acme CNC props recommending lapping. I simply did the pictorial thread. I mentioned it in the tread that I have a feeling the recommendation is due to the taper bore being machined and not reamed. The machining will leave a rougher finish than reaming but lapping will remove the roughness. The actual lapping practice has been with us for many years in the tool and die trade. In fact, Duane's old enough to have actually been involved with the lapping inception!!   


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77 Tique

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MrMcD Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-16-2016 at 2:29pm
This is a fantastic and helpful thread for sure Pete, Very kind of you to share the knowledge with us clowns. I got away with not lapping for over 25 years but I now know that was wrong.
One point on torqueing the prop nut.   30-35 pounds of torque is not very much.
Even small cars torque the wheel studs to 90 pounds torque so keep in mind how little 35 pounds is. Most of us have changed a tire on our cars and know how tight that is.
The prop nut is about 1/3 that tight.   An impact gun could blast that nut down to 150-250 pounds in a quick application of air power.   Using a 2x4 to tighten the nut?   Any water skier has plenty of grip in your hands to hold the prop with one hand while tightening the nut to 35 foot pounds.   If you need a 2x4 you are way too tight.
Using a crescent wrench on the nut, if adjusted properly I see zero issue using the adjustable wrench for this little amount of torque.   

I should follow up with my observation, in the old days before lapping changing a prop was really easy.   I never had to fight getting one off because they were installed badly and I did not know it. A lapped prop will need a tool to remove it every time, showing you did the job correctly and safely.
I also had the clank of the prop hitting the nut when put in reverse before I started lapping, that clank going into reverse should be a red flag for any inboard boater.
Pete"s advice should be listed as gospel on this issue.   Thanks again and I hope all the new guys get a chance to read Pete's advice.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TedR Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-16-2016 at 11:02am
What a great and useful post Peter, thanks for all the info...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Russman Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-15-2016 at 10:45am
New 422 installed. I am glad that I decided to change the prop this year as when I went to change the screw was loose and the prop just fell off the taper. I am thinking that I am fortunate that I did not have any trouble last season.

I lapped the shaft as mentioned in this thread and ended with a nice fit.

Here is a pic, Cleanup of underside of boat is needed!!!!!

I also need to do some serious trailer work in the fall.
1989 2001 SN / Prior 1978 Cobalt 18
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Russman Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-16-2016 at 12:39pm
Thanks,     I was going to install yesterday, but when I went outside to head to the unheated barn I moved the boat to from heated storage it was way too cold and I decided that an inside the house job was in my interest.    Warming up this week so I will get it then.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-16-2016 at 12:31pm
Russ,
Water base will work just fine plus it's easier to clean up! The Prussian blue is optional as it's just a good indicator of high and low spots.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Russman Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-16-2016 at 11:58am
there is another thread on dumb things said about boats. Well!, I have potentially a dumb question on this topic.

I went to NAPA and had to order the Prussian Blue and the Valve Grinding Compound. When I did i was asked (Water or grease base) then was told that the grease was no longer available.    So, the question I have is "is the water based Valve Grinding Compound effective for the lapping prior to a new prop install.?"


Thanks for you response.
1989 2001 SN / Prior 1978 Cobalt 18
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote NCH20SKIER Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-04-2014 at 9:19am
Suggestion - if your taking the time to lap the shaft above spend the extra bucks and get the correct sized wrench and sell the adjustable to those working on mastercrafts. Got to say I was very surprised to see such a tool in Pete's hand
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote phatsat67 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-01-2014 at 2:31pm
Both Acmes I have lapped had a run up the side. The line was uniform and they both stay on the taper just fine.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote gR@HaM Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-01-2014 at 2:11pm
That's good to know, thanks
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SNobsessed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-01-2014 at 11:10am
Graham - My prop's taper (after lapping) looked exactly like what you ended up with. I got to the point of diminishing returns & just went with it. It hasn't come loose, been 5+ years.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-30-2014 at 8:57pm
Originally posted by IAughtNaut IAughtNaut wrote:

You're probably good...there's a lot of guys who have never lapped a prop and never have any problems. You hit the toilet 95% of the time and your toes are going to stay pretty dry.

Yes, there are plenty of people who have never lapped a prop but if you read this thread thoroughly you will understand that was with the old props and not the CNC machined props. Props used to be reamed but the CNC props are not. Yes, CNC is accurate but not to the extent of the greatest fit. Why do you think Morris tapers are ground? Why do you think Acme even recommends lapping.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote gR@HaM Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-30-2014 at 7:37pm
Shaft looks good

flat spot on prop
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote gR@HaM Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-30-2014 at 7:29pm


Thanks fellas its getting there slowly
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote IAughtNaut Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-30-2014 at 7:16pm
You're probably good...there's a lot of guys who have never lapped a prop and never have any problems. You hit the toilet 95% of the time and your toes are going to stay pretty dry.
bring the ruckus
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote baitkiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-30-2014 at 7:15pm
95%? Bolt it up and splash the damn thing already!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote gR@HaM Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-30-2014 at 7:11pm
Old thread I know, but couldnt see any mention of checking for flat spots on the prop taper?
It's taken me a considerable amount of lapping and am currently at ~95% contact with the prop. The shaft taper is spot on..
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SNobsessed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-11-2013 at 8:46pm
Tony - The grinding compound leaves a satin finish. I have not used the blue. I think the bogey is 90% cleanup.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bones71 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-11-2013 at 8:24pm
Been there. I went to Napa and I'll get the Prussian tomorrow. I thought I would have to wait. Thanks, Tony.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote baitkiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-11-2013 at 8:15pm
Tony, I have found my own blood to be a suitable substitute...
It has gotten a little thinner after 30 years in S Florida and seems to flow nicely over machined surfaces...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bones71 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-11-2013 at 7:13pm
Guys, if I can't find Prussian blue what else could I use? I know they can get it for me but is there another product I could use? Thanks, Tony.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote lewy2001 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-06-2013 at 8:50pm
Fitted my new 1442 the other day. Checked it with blue compound almost perfect contact on taper. Still gave it a quick lap with the cutting compound.

ACME are now putting a note in with their props to check the taper fit.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kapla Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-06-2013 at 12:03pm
Tell me, lost the cstle nut and the prop remain on its place!
Good i followed this instructions
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-06-2013 at 9:19am
Originally posted by 4mor 4mor wrote:

I have never "blued" the shaft or for that matter, even cleaned it. Am I doing something wrong or am I just lucky .

Blueing is an option. It's just an indicator of high and low spots. It's the lapping that is key to matching the taper. Yes, many have gotten away without lapping. Most have been lucky but there are others who have lost props.


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77 Tique

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