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Moving boat on trailer

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vondy View Drop Down
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    Posted: March-05-2009 at 11:00pm
Oh that kind of brilliant

Sorry, been working too much.
Probably making me dumber.

Although my dad has definitely gotten better with his ideas. Guess when your retired you have more time to contemplate bow stops and the such.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote lewy2001 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-05-2009 at 7:24pm
Vondy I think you may have slightly missed the point boat dr was making.

Its is a bit like the sign in a front yard which read "For Sale full set of Encyclopedia's no longer required my 16 year old already know's everything"
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote vondy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-05-2009 at 4:58pm
My photo above may be a little misleading. I already Photoshopped it and moved the boat about 6 inches forward.

I know what you saying Boat Dr. My dad has slowly started to take more time on projects and do them correctly. He used to be the fix it till it breaks again type of guy. So we pretty much spent all our time fixing things.

Maybe by the time I'm 40 he will be a genius. Who knows, he's still a crazy Cajun.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kapla Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-05-2009 at 12:07pm
Now i got it... the trailer got unhooked and went its way until that curb stopped it...
Hard for the driver to see that on the rear view mirrow...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 79nautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-05-2009 at 12:07pm
the handle to the wench is going to get in your way and something has to change. Either shortening the handle by drilling a new hole in the lever arm and moving the handle or cuttting the tube and moving the mounting plate back or down and removing the plate and mounting the wench on top with u-bolts.

just point it out and come up with a game plane before you move the boat forward and ram the handle into the gel-kote.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote boat dr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-05-2009 at 12:06pm
vondy, I had the very same problem with my Dad. Even tho he was an engineer by trade , at home he was the most stupid man I ever knew.
But somewhere around my 30th birthday , he began to become somewhat more educated. By the time I reached 40 he became almost brilliant..........Boat dr
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kapla Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-05-2009 at 12:03pm
Originally posted by 62 wood 62 wood wrote:

Originally posted by storm34 storm34 wrote:

I wouldn't use the "slam on your brakes method either!!!



uuuhhhhhhhh, that looks more like "the trailer came unhooked/sudden stop" syndrome.


i like how the winch prevented of massive damage to the fin and keel area...
I wonder how the towing vehicle got through...
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vondy View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote vondy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-05-2009 at 11:56am
I'm sure your right 79. My thoughts exactly on the redesign. I figured if I was removing the current stop anyway, it wouldn't hurt to try this option first. Since it's such a simple option. But I doubt it will give me enough room to move the boat forward enough to get the tongue weight and not hit the wench handle.

It's my dad's idea and I'm really trying to appease him. That way he will be more motivated to fabricate a new one for me if his first idea doesn't work. But who knows, sometimes he's right.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 79nautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-03-2009 at 3:47pm
well you don't have to move the boat untill the bow stop is moved forward and welded back in place and that can all be done without moving the boat on the trailer.

Also I don't ssuggest lowering the bow stop as that is what your going to do as discriped, cut the bow stop where it meets the c-beam not in the middle of the plate.

Also if it was me I would junk the jack and wench post and redesign that whole area otherwise you are going to have issues with wench's handle hitting the boat.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote OverMyHead Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-02-2009 at 9:29pm
The brakes method would only work if ther bow stop wwas firmly back in place, and then less is more in the brakes department.
For thousands of years men have felt the irresistible urge to go to sea, and many of them died. Things got better after they invented boats.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-02-2009 at 5:38pm
Originally posted by 81nautique 81nautique wrote:

My guess is the pin wasn't in the swing away tongue, too bad thats a pretty good looking boat.


The tongue is missing!! Is that it laying next to the pole on the side of the road?


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 81nautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-02-2009 at 5:21pm
My guess is the pin wasn't in the swing away tongue, too bad thats a pretty good looking boat.
You can’t change the wind but you can adjust your sails
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 62 wood Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-02-2009 at 5:10pm
Originally posted by storm34 storm34 wrote:

I wouldn't use the "slam on your brakes method either!!!



uuuhhhhhhhh, that looks more like "the trailer came unhooked/sudden stop" syndrome.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote storm34 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-02-2009 at 5:06pm
I wouldn't use the "slam on your brakes method either!!!

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote vondy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-02-2009 at 2:05pm
Sounds like a plan. I'll give it a try this weekend and let y'all know how it turns out.

Thanks for everyone's ideas!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 81nautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-02-2009 at 12:55pm
Agree with BKH about jack placement, I have used 2x10's about a foot long and run them parralel to the stringers. Use the floor jack with blocks under the keel at the bow a few feet forward of center just before the hull starts to curve upward. Piece of cake, your boat is pretty light.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-02-2009 at 12:49pm
David,
Cut the bow stop off, wet down the bunks, Use the jacks at the transom and under the keel (about 2/3r'ds from the aft), jack slightly just to take some of the weight off the trailer and use your bow winch to pull the boat. I don't recommend the slam on the brakes method. The boat may move forwaed more than you want it to!!


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bkhallpass Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-02-2009 at 12:41pm
No. You need to put the jackstands inside the prop guard on the trailer. If you place them where depicted, you won't be able to move the trailer back as you want to do. Put a heavy rag or a wood block between the jackstand and the hull, so that you don't gouge the hull. If possible put the the jackstands under a stringer on each side.

Yes, you will be fine using a floor jack under the keel at the bow end of the boat.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote vondy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-02-2009 at 11:50am
I was not trying to lift it with the jacks on the trailer, they stay there to keep the boat level while I work on her. She's parked on a slope.

Plan one is to cut my bow stop in half, move it down and bolt back together. Yes it's welded. That would get me possibly six inches forward. See if my rough photoshop work makes any sense.




Step two if that doesn't work is to have my dad's buddy, a welder, build me one of these.



Now, back to moving the boat forward once this is done. I could try cranking it forward but I'm afraid it's not going to budge. I thought about using a lake but it would be easier to work on it at the house.

So would this be OK?



And it's OK to jack under the keel in the front?

Again, trying not to break anything here.

Thanks for the help everyone.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote harddock Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-02-2009 at 11:26am
You could wait until you can get the boat in the water and then move the bowstop a few inches. you don't need much.

Choice #2 move axle back.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SNobsessed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-02-2009 at 10:13am
Your back jack stands need to be under the hull only, not the trailer. Maybe this was obvious to you, but I saw the trailer frame supported in the photo. Just do that & then jack it up on center under the front keel, you won't need a jack stand there if you are just moving it a few inches & no one is climbing under it. Shouldn't take more than a few minutes to move it!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bkhallpass Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-02-2009 at 3:56am
Two floor jacks and a two by four between the jack and hull. You only need to lift it half and inch off the trailer, and you'll only need to move the trailer a few inches to make a big difference. BKH

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 62 wood Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-02-2009 at 1:07am
I hooked the trailer up to the tuck and pulled from the hitch. Like I said, unfortunately, that will pull in a downward position. Not sure if you could block off of the bed of the truck for a straighter pull?
   

   Also getting the bed rails wet...maybe with a dish soap solution, could help reduce the drag?

If I remember right, your bow stop is welded? Can you just cut it off?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote vondy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-02-2009 at 12:53am
Didn't think of a come-along. Although, I need to remove the bow stop. So somehow I need to jack up the front of the boat at least to take the weight off of the stop. Need a jack point...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 62 wood Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-02-2009 at 12:26am
   I do the same thing as Dave when bringing the boat out of the water.... squash the brakes just hard enough to slide the boat forward into the bow stop.


    I've also used a come-along, hooked to the front winch ring of a boat, to pull it forward. Just make sure the ring is secured good. The bad thing with this is your usually pulling in a downward angle.

   When I moved my 68 cuda forward on the trailer to gain more tongue weght after I bought it, I lifted the boat by the two lift rings. I have an overhead I beam with chainfalls in one of my shops tho. Thats the best way to lift the boat. You dont know anyone in your area with any type of overhead?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote OverMyHead Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-01-2009 at 10:57pm
Answer from my 16 y/o son.
"I suggest some good old fashioned use of the brakes. Last summer we had a bow strap break and had to do the same thing with our boat. Applying the brakes gently, but just hard enough to move the boat up worked very well at the ramp. It might not have been the most controlled way of doing the job, however it worked out just fine in our case." The bunks were still wet at the time. Otherwise a come along would work
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote vondy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-01-2009 at 10:33pm
I'm going to be experimenting with my bow stop to try and get more tongue weight and need to move my boat forward while it's on the trailer.

Obviously I want to do this correctly and not stress the hull.

I guess I could lower the jack all the way and put blocks under the back end. Jack up the front, then support the front end. Lower the jack and move the trailer around.

But where are the proper places to put the supports? I would assume on the back I could place them directly behind where the trailer supports are. That's a problem on my trailer because I would have no room to move the trailer backwards, see pic.

Would it be OK to place the supports farther in? I was planning on using the jack stands with a 4x4 in between. I have know idea where to support up front.

Any idea?

Thanks!



The bungees are there to hold my tarp on by-the-way.
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