changing oil with drill pump

I have to agree eric...

And Tim...you should know enough by now to watch your wording a little closer..

john

yeap that was my next question about this.. I was thinking on some type of grease (red) or graphite based grease???

79nautique wrote: I would clean up the flats on the plug some before you install it, with the tee I bet your not going to have enough leverage to get it tight enough and you'll have to use an adjustable wrench on the square section to get it tight enough, and then there is also the possibility that the weld might snap, but I'm sure it's a good weld but better safe than sorry though.

Cris that was my concern but it has nice leverage.. I have small hands....but as here pete says I will hand tighten it...I don�t want it to frosen again there...

Seb,
Very creative!!

Chris,
I've never had to wrench tighten any bilge drains on any of my boats and have never had a leakage issue. Hand tight has always worked plus, remember unlike your arms, mine are spindly!!!

Seb,
Before you set it back in the boat, work the plug into the hull fitting by tightening and loosening 15 to 20 times. This will remove any possible high spots in the pipe threads so they seat properly.

well I went to this friend and we share a couple of beer and we came out with this.. a fawcet water handle welded to the old plug.. not fancy but sure functional....





I wanted to go today and intall it but I`m having some flu... hot weather and ac it�s killing me.. all the family is the same way

Every day you learn s'thing new!!!
Well I took the plug to a friend who is an artist and works with welding, he does big insect (ants, spiders, etc) made out of metals, so he should be able to weld a T on the plug...
I will pick it up today...
So when I assemble the plug again how much time do I need to let the sealant cure before putting the boat on the water again?

copper zinc... wikipedia...

kapla wrote: i think the housing is brass, are the bronze plugs ok or should i get brass plugs?

If you're going to have a T handle welded on, ask your welder which he would prefer. It's been a few years since I welded the brass windshield brackets together for my Atom but I seem to remember the Tig setting are the same as aluminum. AC current and continuous high frequency.

Yes on the 5200 for bedding the housing back in.

Yes I was also thinking about doing that...
And one more when putting the housing back to the hull, which adhesive sealant is recomendable the 3m 5200?

yeap they sell the t handle for $9..
i will try at local parts here and if not I get the one from skidim...

No T handles available here... I was thinking on getting the one from skidim but shipping and customs will kill for that.. and this plugs i got here all cost me $5...

LMAO!

kapla wrote: I start with 100 strokes only 1 quart is out!!!

TRBenj wrote: youve gotta get that unstuck!

kapla wrote: so I can�t use it. I wanted to pump

TRBenj wrote: If you cant get it off by hand, get some leverage on it. Pipe wrench, vice grips- anything. It should come if you hit it. Spray some penetrating oil on it first and let it soak for a few days.

Kapla you should have something like this in your 90. It is exactly the same as my 89.

Thru Hull & T handle bung

It also had a square plug frozen in the thru hull fitting like yours. It was impossible to get it unfrozen while still attached to hull. Remove the thru hull fitting just 4 s/s bolts with nyloc nuts on mine. This makes it much easier to hold the fitting in the vice and get that frozen plug out.

They had used a galvinised plug which had frozen real solid needed to apply a bit of heat to get it out. I ordered only the t handle fitting then as the threads in the thru hull fitting were fine.

Like TRBenj said when ever the boat is out of the water the bung should be out. It drains any water and we know the pre 93 hulls like to be kept as dry as possible.

The chisel meathod is only meant to be a 'polite' impact wrench...don't use a BFH!