Help with prop and driveshaft. |
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TX Foilhead
Grand Poobah Joined: February-01-2009 Location: Kingsland TX Status: Offline Points: 2076 |
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Posted: March-18-2009 at 12:14am |
I talked to Acme about a new prop and they suggested a 328 which they described basically as the miracle prop. They said I would get a better holeshot and not loose top end or anything else. I ordered it from Delta w/ the CCF discount on Friday, showed up 2 days later and it does exactly what they said.
I cleaned up the threads on the shaft, cleaned up the castle nut, and filled the dings out of the keyway. I followed the proper prop instal thread, and everything works as it should. I will go ahead and replace the shaft next time It has to come out for maintenance or something. Thanks to everyone for pointing me in the right direction. |
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TX Foilhead
Grand Poobah Joined: February-01-2009 Location: Kingsland TX Status: Offline Points: 2076 |
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I don't usually trust the dealers either, but I wanted someone to look at it that has seen an inboard prop. I'm about a hour west of Austin, and my local dealers look at me like I'm crazy when I bring parts in, they sell lost of outboards and I/O's, no inboards. The area Nautique dealer charges $105/hr so that is the last resort and thanks to CCF, I've never needed them.
I'll update the pictures when the rain stops, 4 inches and still raining!!! |
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8122pbrainard
Grand Poobah Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41045 |
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Don,
If you decide to send the prop for a rebuild, have them clean up the prop bore. Then do go through the lapping process whether you go with the same prop or a new prop. The diagonal grove in the shaft looks like a chunk of the keyway corner that broke off went through the bore when the prop spun on the shaft. Hit the grove with a flat file to see if the are any high spots before you lap. BTW, deal directly with the prop shop and not the dealer. Dealers simply send out the props and tack on a percentage to the rebuild price. Ask the prop shop the questions and not the dealer. Being honest, I don't trust some of the dealers out there to really know what they're doing. Maybe they were the ones who did the bad prop install that caused the problem??? |
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TX Foilhead
Grand Poobah Joined: February-01-2009 Location: Kingsland TX Status: Offline Points: 2076 |
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Sorry theses are such bad pics, I took them this morning and it has been raining most of the day so I can't get out to get some more. I did take the prop by dealer in Austin and they thought I could get the grooves out with some valve lapping compound. Upon further inspection of the shaft the two threads closest to the taper have a piece missing the size of the key, and the keyway is dinged but in much better shape than I was thinking last night. Looks like a few passes with a file to clean up a raised edge and the valve lapping fluid should have it almost back to new. You can see the diagonal groove in the shaft, It appears to be machined in and there.
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8122pbrainard
Grand Poobah Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41045 |
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Don,
Post some pictures of the shaft. |
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TX Foilhead
Grand Poobah Joined: February-01-2009 Location: Kingsland TX Status: Offline Points: 2076 |
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I've been spending too much time behind the boat, but I have already read the prop instal thread again.
The prop does have some grooves inside that lapping might not take care of, but I was thinking about re-proping so not a big deal. I'm more concerned about the ding in the threads although it doesn't seem to stop the castle nut, and the flared keyway. The keyway is opened up about 1/8 of an inch at the very back. I'm also curious about a groove I have in the shaft that runs diagonly across the keyway. It appears to be machined i, but I didn't see anything like it in the pictures on the prop intstal thread. All and all not near a bad as I was thinking while I was adrift in the lake waiting for a tow. I'm really glad I don't have to send anything to Eric and have the pleasure of alining the V Drive. |
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eric lavine
Grand Poobah Joined: August-13-2006 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 13413 |
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from my brothers mouth....It'll be fine btw, those words are spoken before anything happens
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"the things you own will start to own you"
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8122pbrainard
Grand Poobah Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41045 |
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Don,
Read this thread: proper prop installation Your prop wasn't installed correctly and now at the minimum you will absolutely need to lap it in to the shaft. If real bad the prop shop will need to ream the tapered bore and then lapped to the shaft. You're not spending enough time reading here on CCfan!!! BTW, the cotter pin isn't the safety you may think it is. I've seen them wear through from vibration and thats back to a bad prop install. |
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Rick
Senior Member Joined: March-03-2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 338 |
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You maybe OK. Just watch for vibration. The best thing to do would be to have the Prop Trued or get a new prop and keep that one as a backup. If therr is to much vibration you can eventually damage the Transmission
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TX Foilhead
Grand Poobah Joined: February-01-2009 Location: Kingsland TX Status: Offline Points: 2076 |
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I took my Excel out for a spin tonight, she ran strong all the way to 45mph for a couple of minutes. On the way home I slowed to look at a neighbors new Sanger and when I put her in gear to leave nothing happened. After being towed in by a neighbor, I found that I had broken the key in the prop causing the prop to slip. I guess I'm at fault because I noticed that the nut was loose, but didn't do anything because castle nut couldn't come off with the koter pin in place. The last time I was in the water, the prop hit the prop guard which is broken on one side. I figure this is what loosened the prop and allowed it to slide bak I was able to take the small nicks out of the prop with a cresent wrench and about 5 lite passes with a file. There was no noticeable vibration and the boat ran within 1 mph of the best top speed so the prop is in good shape.
The damage; The inside of the prop has ridges, the shaft looks and feels smooth. The key way is slightly enlarged at the rear of the shaft,and there is a chunk missing from 2 threads on the shaft about the size of a BB at the end of the keyway. These do not seem to keep the Castle nut from going back on. Anything I should ckeck before I put the prop back on? I will be looking over the prop instal thread before I start. D |
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