Shaft Strut Bushing

My 80 Tique shaft strut's bore is such that the new strut bearings slide in by hand! The old ones slid out (well one slid out the other came out with a little driving with a piece of wood) after set screws removed. Seems like this is too loose. Opinion/expertise?

teodoro.guzman wrote: However it is before I slide the coupler forward that I am asking about.

It's normal to be able to move the coupler end around a bit. The trick is like Pete said, to make a quick V-block for the shaft to sit in, and then go back and look at the shaft passing through the strut. Is it concentric? Is it high in the front and low in the back? Adjust as needed from there, and when you get it close, put the coupler on the pilot and check again!     

teodoro.guzman wrote: Does this mean I should expect little vertical/lateral play at the shaft coupling?

There shouldn't be any vertical/lateral/radial play between the coupling. If the correct halves were used, there is a pilot step on the face of one coupling half that fits into a counterbore on the other coupling half.

teodoro.guzman wrote: Hi All, I am tring to align a shaft, but there is some "sag" in it (The shaft coupler has some play in it when unbolted from the tranny) is this normal?? I find it hard to align the engine/trans to a shaft that is not fixed in place. Does this mean my cutlass bearing is worn?

Yes the weight of the forward section of prop shaft as well as the coupling half is working against you. I suggest supporting it with a block of wood so the shaft is centered in the shaft log. At this time, get under and turn the prop shaft to check if it is aligned with the strut/culass bearing. This is one of those judgement calls to see if it's moving free if the forward end is moved up down port or starboard. If it turns easier when the shaft isn't centered in the log then you will need to align the strut to the hull.

Cutlass bearing condition is checked by seeing if there is any radial play betwen it and the shaft.

You say "the shaft coupler has some play in it when unbolted" Do you mean it's loose on the shaft? If so, you will need a new coupler and it needs to be bored to fit the shaft. With a engine and shaft misalignment, the coupling and shaft interface will fret. This is due to the small movement as it's run and will wear down the bore/shaft. The bore is a shrink to fit (-.0005 to -.001" undersize). The coupling is heated to expand and then slipped onto the shaft.

Donald,
Erics alignment thread
Since you have a leaking shaft stuffing box, open it up and take a look at both the shaft and the packing, Then unbolt the coupling halves at the trans to do the alignment check, While both are loose, go back under the boat and see if the shaft turns any freer as you move the forward end of the shaft side to side or up and down. Does the strut look straight and also not twisted?

Pete,

I was under my boat last night and I am concerned that my prop is too hard to turn. I am able to turn it but it requires some effort and it feels stiff.

The boat is a 1980 and I have no idea if the bearing has ever been changed. If the prop and shaft is hard to turn my hand, does that point to a wore out Cutlass Bearing?

I need to tear into mine any way because at the lake today my Shaft Log Packing was leaking when it should of been dripping.

Thanks,

Donald

skierbrant wrote: I'm not a fan of plastic myself. Brass is definitely first choice. Thanks for the info!

Brant, Actually the shell is brass but the contact surface to the prop shaft is a hard rubber. The length of the rubber is fluted to allow water to lubricate it. The plastics are too. Next time you are around the boat, get down there and take a look. While you're down there, see if there's any axial play in the shaft and see how easy the shaft turns.

skierbrant wrote: I don't often go onto the skidim.com site but is that the best place (or maybe the only place now) to buy the struts? Is there any other concerns when I pull the shaft out as far as alignment issues?

Brant,
I'm assuming you're asking about the cutlass bearing in the strut and not the strut itself - correct? If you do a on line search for "cutlass" bearings lot's of sources will come up but, it's always nice to support one of our sponsors like Skidim too. You will find that there are 2 piece plastic culass bearings available. I prefer the old rubber ones with the brass sleave. In the many years I have in engineering power transmission components, I'm not a big fan of plastic bearings.

Regarding alignment, you need to keep in mind that it starts at the strut and then goes forward. The prop shaft first need to align with the hull hole/shaft log. If not then the strut may be bent (they can be straightened) or it needs realignment. Then the engine is aligned to the shaft with the engine mounts.

Is my memory correct that you were thinking about selling it a couple years ago? I would swear he said something about buying it back.
I bet he would in a heartbeat.

8122pbrainard wrote: Brant, If you are referring to the slide hammer pullers sold for the cutlass bearing removal then yes it is special. You're welcome to try it but I feel you'll find out just how "special" this tool is. Most including myself feel it's a joke! The wall (shell) of the rubber cutlass is so thin there's not much to grab onto plus the old cutlass's are always really stuck into the strut. Just cut out the old one like Chris and Eric have mentioned. It's easy, fast and it works!! I think you've been spending too much time over on the Skidim site!!!

The slide hammer was the only way I knew of taking the stut out until reading this site. Sawsall sounds much easier. I don't often go onto the skidim.com site but is that the best place (or maybe the only place now) to buy the struts? Is there any other concerns when I pull the shaft out as far as alignment issues?

Eric,
Have you seen the video "how to" on Skidims site using the slide hammer on a cutlass? It's a kick! New strut, new cutlass and I'm sure the set screws were never dimpled into the shell!!

Brant, that boat was amazing back in the day, really glad to hear is still is for you today. Z is likely coming to GL with my wife and I. He would get all misty seeing that boat again. I have talked to Ox a couple times. Seems there is some common Python ground there too!!

I think the shaft removal will be the easier part. I did not think that was a big deal at all. Guarantee you need an alignment anyway, unless you have been keeping up on that.


I have heard or using a slide hammer to get the coupler off, what is the consensus there?

Mike

I dont understand this slide hammer thing, it has its place, but not on boats....---- if i used a slide hammer on a strut,I think you would break the strut off the boat..use a sawzall

isn't there some special tool that you need to take everything apart?

SKIDIM say every 300hrs. of course they sell them.....