Shaft strut bushing replacement time

Mike,
The answer to your same question in the other thread:

8122pbrainard wrote: Mike, They should not slide in and out by hand. Somethings wrong. Does it appear that the old cutlass bearing spun in the strut wearing the strut I.D.? Did you put a brass/rubber back in or one of the two piece plastics. I've never see one of the brass ones out of tolerance but there's always a first time!! The plastic bearings I have heard of tolerance issues. Better get the inside and outside micrometers out and do some measuring! If the strut is over and not much more than about .010" over, I'd be inclined to install the new cutlass with Locktite Bearing retainer 638. It will fill spaces up to .015".

I'd stick with the standard 4" long brass/rubber cutlass.

ps.
to remove coupling you use the 4 bolt method eh.

Saffer - Call Vince at SkiDim or Karen at Correct parts - they will make sure you get the right bushings.

I would rather take the coupling off & remove shaft vs. removing the strut, unless the strut is already bent (then it must come off). Before you take either apart, unfasten the coupling & see where the shaft is 'happy' in relation to the shaft log (remove packing hose to view or view from underneath. If the shaft wants to be off center in the log, your strut is bent.

DrCC wrote: Check out (if its not too late) deepblueyachtsupply.com 1"X 1 1/4" X 4" for less than a 35 dollarbill AT

It's not too late, I have to get the motor running right first, so I will check that link out. the price sounds great!

So that is the correct size I need? 1x 1.25 x 4" ?

Thanks for the link!

Tom

eric lavine wrote: John, you do know the toothbrush was invented here in Brunstucky.....anywhere else they wouldve called it the teethbrush

I did know that interesting fact.

You have your cell phone turned off this afternoon?

john

eric lavine wrote: I notice your one of the few that runs a 4 blade, any feedback?

I LOVE it.

I have run this prop since the first summer I got the boat.   Skidim said not to run a 4 blade, but talking with acme, they guaranteed it would be good.

I did ding it a tiny bit last summer, so until I get it repaired, I will be running the stock 3 blade once I get her going this summer.

From what I recall, the 4 blade gave me more top end, and definitely more grunt out of the hole.

Pulling 5 skiers on 2 skis each was actually less work on my 78 than with the year old air nautique with like 70 more hp at the time. Granted the newer air had a lot more weight to haul, but I added a good 500 lbs to my boat when I redid the flooring.

John, you do know the toothbrush was invented here in Brunstucky.....anywhere else they wouldve called it the teethbrush

I notice your one of the few that runs a 4 blade, any feedback?

ahh, lube-tite then LOL

Those look to be the same price,if not more for the size I need, and then there is the chance of ordering the wrong ones.

Good info guys!

I will keep you posted.

The frozen bushing option will definitely help. Most times I am working on whatever you can't try that because the parts are too big. Not this time.

Eric, If i am understanding, you take a smaller drill bit than the threaded hole for teh set screw, and while carefully not mucking the threads on the strut, you get a dimple started with the small bit so the set screw has a place to call home?


If so that makes perfect sense. Blue loc tite is my friend:) I was planning on using that to hold the set screws.

Now these 2 bushings need to have their flutes lined up with each other , right?

What other online place has these? I am trying to get these for as cheap as possible.

I have a limited budget unfortunately.

Horken, dont over tighten the set screws and dis-figure the bushing, Ill go in with a drill smaller than the hole and drill the bushing a touch, lightly hand tighten with loc-tite

So, My 78 martinique is needing a new bushing for the shaft strut.

If I am reading this correctly, I need these

http://www.skidim.com/prodinfo.asp?number=SB10X12


What are your thoughts on the plastic ones?

I read here that taking the DS off, then the set screws out, then using a sawzall at the top from the rubber inside towards the brass, and then trying to take the bushing off does the trick. if not, then cut the bushing through 180 degrees at the bottom and try it again.

Is putting the new one in as simple as plopping it in, then tightening the set screws, and then re insert the DS?

I of course will check alignment at that time too.

if I can get this taken care of, and my timing set correctly, i might be able to hit the GL event up this year finally.

Tom