1980 Ski Nautique Total Restoration |
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GTH852001
Newbie Joined: June-01-2020 Location: Michigan Status: Offline Points: 12 |
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Posted: June-01-2020 at 6:55pm |
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I was wondering if anyone can tell me how the ski pylon comes out? I have the four big bolts loose and the one on the bottom removed. What else needs to be done?
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nitro scott
Newbie Joined: September-02-2019 Location: crosby Status: Offline Points: 8 |
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Beautiful job OP. I have a 73 that I have to restore. Got motor out it was rusted solid. Now I realize how much work it is going to be. With the help of this thread I can handle it. Thank you for sharing.
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80tiquefan
Groupie Joined: January-05-2009 Location: Paragould, AR Status: Offline Points: 40 |
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Pete, thanks for the quick reply. I will definitely have time for the lumber to dry. This is part of the reason for buying it early in the restoration and I do plan to start a new thread on the restoration as soon as the weather will allow me to get started. My question is what dimension lumber should I buy for the mains on an 80 model? My options are: 2x8's, 2x10x24"s, and 2x12x24"s. Thanks for any input.
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8122pbrainard
Grand Poobah Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41045 |
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Jason,
I suggest getting a moisture reading on the DF. A good yard will have a meter. If not, a basic meter is around $20.00. If you are buying contruction grade lumber, understand they are only required to take the moisture down to 18% and that's too high to use immediatly. If the lumber has been sitting around for a time since the kiln drying, I have seen it down to around 12%. Idealy you want around 8% so you may need to do some further drying. Get it home, place stickers (1x2 spacers) between the lumber, clamp or band it together and keep it in a dry spot. Some gental air movement without heat will help. Depending on the humidity, it may take a couple weeks or more but it sounds like you have some time to spend on the hull first. Start a new thread on the project and remember, we love pictures! |
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80tiquefan
Groupie Joined: January-05-2009 Location: Paragould, AR Status: Offline Points: 40 |
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Watauga, I know that this post has lain dormant since 2015 but, it's a wonderful guide for my application. I am about to begin my stringer rebuild experience on a 1980 Ski Nautique. I was wondering what the dimensions were on the Douglas Fir that you bought for the main stringers? I have located a supplier locally but want to make sure I purchase large enough lumber. I haven't began to tear any of the floor out but, want to get this DF purchased while they have it in stock.
Thanks for any help! |
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Scotty O
Senior Member Joined: August-18-2015 Location: NH Status: Offline Points: 138 |
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Oh, I did some minor cosmetic updates with the new sticker and correct craft emblems on the side. Spent quite a bit of time buffing it to have some what of a shine, but at the end of the day, it's 35 years old, shows her age, and has a some nasty dock rash on the port side.
But you know what..........we took her to one of the local launches Sunday for her maiden voyage just to make sure everything was running right, and as I walked back from where I parked the truck, and saw her floating in the water, I fell in love with it all over again! She looked so good from where I was standing, and no sooner was it launched, there was another boater who launched an outboard, and my boat stopped him in his tracks! Walked right over to us to ask me what year it was, complimented me on how good it looked for its age, and asked for a brief history of it! Very proud owner at that moment! That lasted for a short time after we discovered the impeller on the raw water pump had failed............but thats a story for another day! |
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Scotty O
Senior Member Joined: August-18-2015 Location: NH Status: Offline Points: 138 |
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Yes I agree that the seller was fully aware and actually stated primary stringers were "decent" and that the secondary's were "not as good". I explained to him that he and I have a differing opinion of what decent and not as good means when it comes to ROT! But at the end of the day, I'm still not mad. He has to live with the deception and I fully believe in karma.
I certainly do appreciate you taking the time out of your morning to send the message regarding the restoration and costs. As my wife and kids and I were at the table I read your message to her which she responded that it was very nice of you to have written. I still believe that there is value in the boat and my father and I have had similar discussions that you stated regarding not having the ability to afford a brand new Nautique. My thoughts are the same where I think I can get one to two years in current condition as long as I take it easy with it. Stay up on maintenance that it will require and see where we stand at that time. My thoughts are telling me now that this boat will probably stay in the family and can take the time and money and do the restoration it will require. |
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Scotty O
Senior Member Joined: August-18-2015 Location: NH Status: Offline Points: 138 |
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Scotty O
Senior Member Joined: August-18-2015 Location: NH Status: Offline Points: 138 |
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Scotty O
Senior Member Joined: August-18-2015 Location: NH Status: Offline Points: 138 |
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Watauga
Senior Member Joined: June-12-2009 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 208 |
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It sounds like the previous owner probably knew the boat had issues but decided to recarpet and market the boat? If the secondaries and one primary have issues you can safely wager that the boat has many more issues. My opinion is that every single one of these-era boats needs a total restoration. I have heard of some exceptions, e.g., a boat with 50 hours that was always stored in a climate controlled garage under a ceiling fan with a dehumidifier placed in the boat after each use, but those are very rare.
You will need to decide if you can use it for another year or two before you begin the restoration, or sell it. My guess is that the summer is nearing the end in NH, so if you are thinking you may jump into the restoration business the timing is good. If you are thinking restoration, you should honestly count the cost, commitment, time, skill level, and availability of space to undertake the job, before you jump in. The time needed could be 250-500 hours depending on your skill, help available, and if you also are doing the trailer, upholstery and the engine. There may be contractors around that you could hire to do the work, but I highly doubt they would be able to do it to your satisfaction or within your budget. The cost of the materials to do a stringer job and floor might be around $2,500. Carpet $300-400. Upholstery $1,500-2,000 depending on if you have the deluxe interior and coming pads, more if you need to rebuild the seat bases, etc.. Engine $2,000 or more. Trailer $200-600. Hope that gives you some beginning budgetary figures, your cost could be way higher or much less. Starting on one of these boats is like opening up the proverbial can of worms (since I went this this far shouldn't I also rebuild the carb. or fix that non-working speedometer, or put a new sending unit in the fuel cell, or refinish the boarding platform, or replace the steering cable and control cables). Those cost add up rather quickly. I am not trying to discourage you at all, just saying you should be honest with yourself before you begin. |
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Watauga
Senior Member Joined: June-12-2009 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 208 |
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Scotty,
How about some pictures? We would love to see the boat. Don't get discouraged, you have one of the best towboats ever produced and there is nothing that cant be fixed. This site is the very best aggregator of knowledge about these boats; you will get the help you need to aid you in restoration if you choose to go that way. |
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Scotty O
Senior Member Joined: August-18-2015 Location: NH Status: Offline Points: 138 |
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Yes. My boat is missing that piece that runs the whole length of the port side. At some point in my boats life a (donkey) replaced the carpet with something that is not even remotely close to original. My boat's interior is blue and I do understand that the color is very unique with the blue and black in the carpet, but the material they used is not even the same shade of blue. My boat also does have the ski tray on the starboard side, but is way past rotten and will need to be replaced.
I unfortunately am finding out quickly this boat is not in the condition it was stated to have been and will probably have to go thru the reconstruction your boat had to. Secondary stringers are worse than the primary are but have found at least one bad spot in the primary starboard side. |
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Watauga
Senior Member Joined: June-12-2009 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 208 |
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Scotty,
The trim is available from Christine's Marine and comes in 12' pieces. It is rolled up for shipping, but will straighten out fairly quickly on a sunny day by simply placing it on your driveway for a few minutes. Don't waste your time looking around for other places to purchase it or alternatives, just go with Christines. Carpet Trim It's the same trim that is used for the sidewall to floor transition as well if you are re carpeting the entire boat.. If you are re-carpeting the entire boat you will need to replace all the trim you will need 3 pieces. If you have the ski tray on the starboard side you will only need 2 pieces since the trim is only necessary forward of the ski tray. Lots of folks simply clean up the original trim with solvent and elbow grease and reuse. There are a number of ways to install the trim; I simply used 4200 to adhere it to the removable floor section and placed some weight on it overnight until it cured, then typical high quality carpet glue for the carpet. Did you lose a piece of the original trim? Thanks for asking about the DIY boat lift. I will put together a post on the lift soon. |
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Scotty O
Senior Member Joined: August-18-2015 Location: NH Status: Offline Points: 138 |
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Also, where did you find the rubber transition pieces for the flooring?
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Scotty O
Senior Member Joined: August-18-2015 Location: NH Status: Offline Points: 138 |
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Watauga, got any more pics or info on your custom $150 home made boat lift? That looks pretty impressive!
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skinaut
Senior Member Joined: September-10-2008 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 209 |
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I re-read this and understand now. I digress ,Wenches can be a handy PITA, |
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dangerwil
Senior Member Joined: June-20-2013 Location: Orange Park, FL Status: Offline Points: 319 |
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skinaut
Senior Member Joined: September-10-2008 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 209 |
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Other trailers may need one but the 80's era CC trailers and boats are designed to do this. I have launched and retrieved my 86 many times by myself. Sure its easier to have some help but not necessary.. Please tell us how to ski alone, I am very interested.
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a0128
Senior Member Joined: May-05-2014 Location: Oregon Status: Offline Points: 226 |
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This is true, unless you want to ski and all your buddies are busy. Then you need to have the Wench drive the boat. |
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skinaut
Senior Member Joined: September-10-2008 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 209 |
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Scotty O ,
if you have the CC trailer with the bow stops on it you really don't need a winch. That trailer is designed to be a drive on. There is a big eye bolt on the tongue and a turnbuckle with hooks on both ends is used to secure the boat to the trailer. You put the trailer in until the stern starts to float a little, unhook the turnbuckle from the bow eye and power off the trailer. To retrieve the boat put the trailer in till the water is just at the top of the fenders and genitally drive the boat till you make contact with the bunks get the boat straight with steering at idle then power it just enough to make contact with the bow stops. shut it off , hook the turnbuckle back up and do not tighten it yet. If you tighten it before chances are the stern will not settle down on the bunks and will be up in the air putting a lot of stress on the bow eye and turnbuckle. Once off the ramp stab your brakes to stop and the boat will shift forward onto the bow stops again, now hand tighten the turn buckle and your good to go. It really is easy to do and eliminates the all the stress of dragging the boat up with a wench. Wenches are an unnecessary PITA with the CC trailer. Hope this helps! |
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Watauga
Senior Member Joined: June-12-2009 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 208 |
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If you look back through the posts on this thread you can see what I did as far as the coupler and the safety chains. I either ordered them from Amazon or e -trailer. Relative to a winch- I simply drilled and installed a forged eyebolt (not a cheap bent one) through the frame where the two siderails join the tongue, and I use a short quality ratchet strap between the bow eye on the boat and the eyebolt on the trailer. Pretty simple and low cost compared to some of the other options. I admit that a nice winch would be great. But this set up works well for me.
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gR@HaM
Platinum Member Joined: May-01-2012 Location: UK Status: Offline Points: 1265 |
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If you decide to use a winch get one with a strap, mine currently has a steel cable and its lethal!! |
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'82 Ski Tique
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Scotty O
Senior Member Joined: August-18-2015 Location: NH Status: Offline Points: 138 |
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Great! Thank you so much for the advice!
What did you do on the trailer regarding a chain or winch? I was told by the previous owner that originally it came with a chain that you just latched the bow of the boat, I have seen that people have made modifications where they put a winch on. |
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Watauga
Senior Member Joined: June-12-2009 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 208 |
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Scotty,
You wont have any problems removing it when you need to. Just go to Home Depot or Lowes, they have it and sometimes they have the quick set version as well. Sometimes they have the small squeeze tubes as well as the caulking-gun size cartridges. In the overall scheme of things related to a rebuild of one of these boats, fiddling with mounting a bilge pump is pretty insignificant. =) |
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Scotty O
Senior Member Joined: August-18-2015 Location: NH Status: Offline Points: 138 |
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Have you had any issues since the competition on your resto? I'm not familiar with the 3M 4200 other than just looking it up now, but was wondering how your confidence is in that material keeping the pump in place for an extended period of time? Also how much of a pain is that going to be to remove the bilge pump in case of a failure?
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Watauga
Senior Member Joined: June-12-2009 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 208 |
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Here is the area where my pump was originally mounted. You can see that I ground the mounting block out . The area is forward of the drain and aft of the pylon. I assume CC gelcoated the hull, then installed the mounting block, then more gelcoat over the top. |
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Watauga
Senior Member Joined: June-12-2009 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 208 |
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Hi Scottie,
On my '80 the bilge pump was originally screwed into a piece of plywood that glassed into the hull directly aft of the pylon. During the restoration process I ground all the fiberglass from that piece of plywood since it was rotten and removed it.. I simply used 4200 to reinstall the pump directly on the hull in the same place during the restoration, sans the plywood, which was not really needed. That was the good advice I received from some of the ole timers on this site, for which I am thankful. The original plywood mounting block, although it was bonded to the hull and encapsulated in fiberglass, was not really needed. The problem was that the pump mounting screws penetrated the fiberglass to reach the plywood but also presented a water entry point that developed rot. The other issue was that the plywood mounting block caused the position of the pump to be 3/4" higher, or greater, in the bilge and less likely to dry the bilge completely out when used. |
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Scotty O
Senior Member Joined: August-18-2015 Location: NH Status: Offline Points: 138 |
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Hi guys new to the forum and new to Ski Nautique with a 1980 as well. Question about the placement of your bilge pump in the boat. Wondering where the location is at? Mine is currently floating around in the bilge area and I don't see a specific point of where I am supposed to mount it too. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
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jbear
Grand Poobah Joined: January-21-2005 Location: Lake Wales FL. Status: Offline Points: 8193 |
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thanks Arklie for sharing this all along the way. awesome job..awesome pics. hope you get to enjoy the fruits of all your labors.
john |
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"Loud pipes save lives"
AdamT sez "I'm Canadian and a beaver lover myself"... |
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