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Idle issues - cable/advance weights/choke?? |
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Rglover 
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Joined: October-21-2008 Location: Canton, GA Status: Offline Points: 111 |
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 Topic: Idle issues - cable/advance weights/choke??Posted: August-13-2009 at 11:24am |
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Also, for the high idle check and make sure the secondary butterfly is not staying open just a bit. When you have the high idle issue you can try to push on the linkage for the secondary butterfly just a bit to see if it closes it all the way and slows the idle back down to normal. If it is remove the linkage and bend it just a bit to make it close the butterfly all the way.
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MI-nick
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Joined: January-12-2009 Location: Ypsilanti, MI Status: Offline Points: 810 |
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Posted: August-13-2009 at 10:48am |
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I finally got around to buying a timing light and checking the timing at normal idle (~600RPM) and at my "high" idle after running hard (~1000RPM). the timing is right at 10 deg. BTDC in both cases so I don't think I have an advance weights issue. Any good ideas on what to check next?? I think i'll take the carb cleaner with me next time and see if I can find any leaks.
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As far as I can tell, I'm not quite sure...
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Luchog
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Joined: April-17-2007 Location: Argentina Status: Offline Points: 2135 |
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Posted: July-24-2009 at 10:24pm |
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I'm having this same issue now as well, the engine starts pulling on it's own... surging rpms and speed. then while iddling it stops and turns very low to start again.
I took the distributor cap out and moved the rotor freeling the weights, then it started right up. when moving the rotor I could feel it was not moving smoothly. but after a few minutes it starts surging again. All this time I've been guessing on an issue with the EI but now I'm sure it's the advance weights. |
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C-Bass
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Joined: November-18-2008 Location: Columbus, IN Status: Offline Points: 1248 |
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Posted: July-13-2009 at 5:35pm |
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Hollywood I had to get my springs through a local speed shop. I searched all around for the stock ones that came out of the original Mallory on ours (BBC) to no avail. The ones that got put back in were the closest I could find. I believe they are just a pair out of a larger kit you can buy that has multiple springs to customize your advance curve. We selected the closest to stock and it runs great. He charged me $5 for the pair.
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Chris4x4gill2
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Joined: August-25-2008 Location: Smith Lake, AL Status: Offline Points: 358 |
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Posted: July-13-2009 at 4:31pm |
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White Lake has the springs.
I have the same problem with it idling high after a full throttle run. I have replaced springs and checked the weights with no change. |
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Hollywood
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Joined: February-04-2004 Location: Twin Lakes, WI Status: Offline Points: 13514 |
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Posted: July-13-2009 at 3:21pm |
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Where are you guys buying advance springs and don't forget you're supposed to reset the "air gap" on the EI plate when reinstalling it.
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C-Bass
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Joined: November-18-2008 Location: Columbus, IN Status: Offline Points: 1248 |
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Posted: July-13-2009 at 1:51pm |
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I don't know if the weights are your issue, but they were my issue several weeks back. Same conditions as you, it would idle perfectly, but after pulling a skier or running at a higher RPM for a bit I would come back down to idle and it would be 300rpm's higher. Subsequently if I shut it off and tried to start it, it would barely crank due to the advance being stuck. I took the the distributor apart to find that one of the 2 advance weight springs was broken and just laying in there. The weights weren't returning back to the base position all the time and that was my issue. I cleaned up the slides that the weights move on, got a new spring, and the issue has gone away.
I don't know about your's though, because of your low idle issue following the high idle. |
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tullfooter
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Joined: March-02-2007 Location: White Lake, MI Status: Offline Points: 2225 |
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Posted: July-11-2009 at 11:59am |
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SNOB
I wished I would have seen your post three days ago. A vacuum issue may have been my problem. I noticed when I was removing my carb on Wednesday, the (4) mounting bolts were not very tight. The gasket hardly had an imprint of the carb. I'm still glad I had the rebuild done, the guy said the carb was in rough shape. I looked at some of the parts that came out, and they were bad. |
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Play hard, life's not a trial run.
'85 BFN '90 BFN White Lake, Michigan |
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SNobsessed
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Joined: October-21-2007 Location: IA Status: Offline Points: 7102 |
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Posted: July-11-2009 at 12:04am |
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Nick - I suggest taking a timing light out on the lake & verify the timing when it acts up. If it is at your base setting when idling high, no point to rebuilding your dizzy. If you do need to free up the weights, they are located under the points mounting plate, which can be removed with a couple of screws.
I don't know how to recondition the weights - my advice is to buy a new dizzy if that one is bad. The Prestolite didn't have a very good advance curve anyway & it isn't worth putting much work into. A tip the other guys on this site had is to spray carb cleaner around the base of the carb & intake manifold gaskets when it acts up. I guess it is common to have a intermittant vacuum leak that opens up with thermal expansion. If the engine idles down when you spray, you found the problem. |
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“Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.”
Ben Franklin |
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MI-nick
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Joined: January-12-2009 Location: Ypsilanti, MI Status: Offline Points: 810 |
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Posted: July-10-2009 at 4:21pm |
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I'm having idle issues with my '88 2001 and I need your help. I've done a lot of searching on the site and there are 3 things I want to look into...but, I don't know exactly what I'm looking at/for.
Idle issue: after initial start up and warm up, it idles nicely at ~650RMP. After running around 25 or so and back to neutral, the idle will stay at ~1000RM...shut down and wait a bit and it will return to ~750RPM. Shut down for about 30 minutes and it takes a little throttle to start and will idle < 500RPM in FWD...if i give it a little throttle to ~750 and then back to idle position in FWD it will stay around 650RPM. For both the high and low idle issues, I want to first make sure the cable is adjusted propely at the carb. I previously found a good topic...but, can't find it again. Can anyone point me to that post or give me a quick how to?? For the high idle, I suspect sticky advance weights (tried to manually close the secondaries with no effect). I am not very familiar with distributors so I don't know exactly where the weights are. I checked the engine manual...but, not so clear. Does anyone have a good photo of where the weights are and some good advice on how to "un-stick" them?? I have a prestolite distributor that has been converted to EI by the PO. For the low idle after sitting a bit I think maybe the choke is closing and shouldn't be?? This should be easy to check by removing the flame arrestor. If this is the case, do I need a new choke?? Sorry for the long post. Any advice is greatly appreciated. |
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As far as I can tell, I'm not quite sure...
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