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Fibreglass patch over shaft log

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BuffaloBFN View Drop Down
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    Posted: July-12-2009 at 5:54pm
Cool, I learned something today; can I go to bed now?    

The hulls must have been drilled after they were popped out of the mold.
1988 BFN-sold



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8122pbrainard View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-12-2009 at 1:05pm
Jim,
Mas epoxy supplies are available in small quantities. Mas


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Keep it original, Pete
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jim_In_Houston Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-12-2009 at 12:58pm
Thanks for the replies. This will get me started. Where should I order, online, small quantities of matt and roving fiber glass?
I remember reading on the forum a few years ago, that CC covered the shaft log hoses on early CCs. Others have experienced this. Who knows what the factory was thinking. The aft hose clamp was completely covered with glass. Isn't that something? FYI, I ordered a new shaft log hose from skdim. I cut it from 6" to 4" (the length of the original) before I figured out that the original hose is 1-1/2" and the replacement hose from skdim is 1-3/4".
Happy owner of a '66 and a '68 Mustang
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote drduck Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-12-2009 at 11:34am
Ok, so here is my 2 cents worth of advise. Any time you put roving into a laminate schedule there should always be a layer of matt put down first and always be a layer of matt between any 2 layers of roving. The reason for this is to give maximum adhesion/connectivity to the roving. 2 layers of roving together isn't nearly as strong as when you put a layer of matt between them.
What were they thinking!!??
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BuffaloBFN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-12-2009 at 9:54am
I think there's something fishy here. Seems to me that the factory would have put the running gear in well after the glass had set. Maybe it was a repair done later?

I could also be way off base.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-12-2009 at 9:37am
Jim,
Defiantly go epoxy resin. It's just stronger and the bond to the old glass is superior. I'd lay in woven roving for the first two layers of glass and the final cloth. That will give you close to the 1/4" and will be plenty. Precut all the layers and lay it up all at once - this will be the best bonding. Mix small batches of epoxy as you go. The coating in the bilge is pigmented resin and not a gel coat. Do grind down through it for resetting the log.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jim_In_Houston Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-12-2009 at 2:35am
Well, the shaft log hose on the '68 had ballooned out and was in need of replacement. The back half of the hose was glassed over by the factory. I guess they figured the hose would outlast the boat. So, I began by using my Dremel to cut out a rectangle on the top of the shaft log. The cut turned out to be about 3" longer than necessary. So, I now have about 3" of exposed brass shaft log almost all the way down to the bilge floor. I would like to glass over the exposed shaft log. The thickness of the removed glass is about 1/4". How many layers of glass will I need to lay on to build up to 1/4"? Is the type of glass weave important to this kind of patch? Should I use epoxy or polyester resin? Should I keep applying the glass until the thickness is reached or should I let dry and sand between each layer? Anyone?

Does the bilge have gel coat over glass like the hull?
Happy owner of a '66 and a '68 Mustang
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