Chevy 350 Counter Rotation Conversion Tech

Update:
   2nd season of the $300 140k 1991 chevy suburban motor running backwards. Never did flip the pistons and all is well / hasn't knocked yet. This motor is just a stand in until I build a true marine engine, but in a pinch it isn't a bad choice.      

You may be right ~ I might regret not going riser to Transome with new corigated...

~ For now these will just replace the (4) 10" sections I have hooking my cast elbows back in the stock configuration. My main run is still original and corigated so I can wrestle the snake back into place.

I'm about to pull the trigger on the reman Holley 4160 from Natoinal Carburetor rebuilders. Saftery / Performance / Fair price.

Any other suggestions before I buy?



Same as Holley #80551 and #80492
600 CFM, Electric Choke
Fits most small block Chevy engines.
Fuel inlet comes straight out side of the bowl (see picture).
Remanufactured 80551 for $249.95 plus $20 core deposit.



I'm also woking another order from Skidim to clean up a few other loose ends and get rid of the sketch fuel delivery concern...

Qty Description Total


1 31" UNIVERSAL FLEXIBLE FUEL LINE (USCG type A1)
Item :JMS32-383831   Price : $64.68    
$64.68



4 3" EXHAUST SOFTWALL NO\WIRE
Item :MPI200-3000   Price : $10.66    
$42.64



1 ELBOW 3/8 INV FLARE X 1/4 NPT
Item :R024017   Price : $5.14    
$5.14   



1 BALL JOINT CONNECTOR/NUT
Item :R178003K   Price : $5.74    
$5.74

Resolution was to have the Flywheel machined to accept the ring gear on the transmission side. Cost $60 & only took 3 hrs.

From this: (right is original 84 flywheel with ring gear on trans side)





To This:




Required for this Chevy PCM bellhousing with top mount starter:

Are you using a long nose starter.

Gary,
It must have been all the 2 cycle oil coming down from the chain coating the steel and keeping them from rusting!!

Gary S wrote: You know Pete I ran steel ones for 20 years before they rusted out,if he can't or does not want to spend the extra money,I'm sure the 400 will work for a long time.By the way the hoses needed replacing by then also.

Yes I do know you had the steel elbows. You're the only one that I know that would put a carbon steel piece of tubing in their boat knowing it would rust!! I'll bet you got them at Warshawski/JC Whitney!!

Added boat pics to 1st post.

I'll look into the all hose option.

No sign of mufflers on mine or any of the other (4) Dixie 299's I've found yet.

8122pbrainard wrote: Michael, Why not just put the exhaust hose back in like the original?

I'm not exactly sure what original was. I think from what I've seen most Nautiques just run flex from the risers to the transom. I might could get away with that ~ What do you think?


Currently I've got (4) rusty cast iron mandrels joined with short sections of wire reinforced 3" exhaust hose.

I feel the current exhaust set up with it's miss matched hoses and random clamps more resembles a kindergarden craft project.

I might try to cean it up sand blast and paint the old cast mandrels and replace with all new hose. I'm looking for somthing to compliment the under hood refresh. Cleaning up the exhaust is one of the last steps under the dog house.

Michael,
Yes on the 304.

The Trident parts are nice but pricey. I really don't feel you need to use them. Remember they need to be clamped off to hard pipe so you'd end up with short pipe "couplings". Why not just put the exhaust hose back in like the original?

Michael,
Wherever you end up getting the elbows, make sure the stainless is a 300 series and not the 400 series which is the cheaper "muffler" grade.

Thanks Gary ~ Somehow I missed them on Summit.

I'm thinking (2) 90-deg + (2) 60-deg + (4) 10" - 12" sections of 3" exhaust hose should do the trick and help to clean things up.

Has anyone on here played around with getting the custom exhaust shops to bend a set of S's I know they do not use a Mandrel bender but many now offer stainless for the performance diesel crowd.

Week (2) with boat cover off...

Week 1 was spent stripping the shaft / log / strut / rudder for refresh / alignment / reseal.   

Taking a break from under side and back to working on enigne.

Working on finishing up the engine install I started last year and cleaning up cobbled repairs / bandaids from previous owners. So far install is going smooth.


After~





Before ~





Looks like I will need to find a suitable replacment marine carb and metal fuel line very soon. I'm also in need of updating my raw water pump hose line and routing. I purchased a new strainer from Ski Dim as mine did not come with one. We put in 1/4 mile down from the fall line / rapids at low tide (shallows) lots of sand and silt if you get out of the ditch. Hopefully the strainer will keep some debris out of the block. As wifey and friends seem to cut corners on occation.   

Hang ups right now are:
      Funky throttle linkage bracket at housing and ball on automotive carb is too small for the marine cable fitting. I'm budgeting for a replacement Marine Holley or Quadra jet but want to hear it run first.

Second hang up is my 3" exhaust hose will need to be replaced soon. This stuff is uber expensive and the cast elbows I have inplace now are unsightly rusty ugly. Is their agood source for reasonably priced 3" mandrel stainless elbows and rubber fittings?       

Checked the piston pin today size shown is from inside wall of pin to outside of piston not the best but much better than my old money guess (looks like I have lost the knack now and become a mm man) hope this helps you on your build, piston still had date stamp 20th Jun 03.


Well its up to you now and go with what's best for you, as for deals we all do them, only needed one dumper did a deal on 2 to make one ended up 2 engine rebuilds and now have 2 dumpers.

There are more Ford guys here than Chevy so they do like to see us suffer a bit before help is given but a great bunch of guys, don't get this Ford vs Chevy thing but makes some good posts each way.

You may end up with a Chevy tow motor for the boat too so all good,keep going and it will all work out,

All the best Roger.

I dont want to be annoying but this is what I meant when I posted earlier.
I wouldnt run that engine like that unless you dont mind ruinning a good block.