No Start/83 351 Nautique. |
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8122pbrainard
Grand Poobah Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41045 |
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Posted: November-07-2009 at 9:55am |
Bob,
Have you been having this problem for awhile? Check the condition of the battery and make sure the battery cables are in good shape. Also the battery cable terminals. Use a terminal cleaning tool on the lugs and cable ends. I've got a feeling you have a bad battery and bad cables and or connections. Get a volt/ohm meter if you don't have one. They are only about $25 for a basic meter. The wiring diagram (courtesy of Tim) (TRBeng) below should help you understand what's going on. Sounds like you may need a new ignition switch but check it out first. The volt/ohm meter would be handy to check continuity/resistance of the switches contacts. You can use the test light to check the following but the volt/ohm meter would be better. A test light will light even if you have a low voltage problem. Regarding the possible short, checking Ohms on the "ign" (purple wire) to ground should only show the resistance of the coil and the ballast resistor (plus some for the wire run). If less, then you may have a short. Disconnect the negative side of the coil and the purple wire from the dash to the ballast resistor. Ohm between the resistor and the - side of the coil to get a value. Then re connect the wiring and check the ohms up at the dash on the purple to ground. That will tell you if there is a short. The igntion switch: The "bat" terminal (red wire) should have nominal 12 volts all the time. In the start position you should get nominal 12 volts to both the "start" (yellow/red wire) and the "ign" (purple wire) terminals. In the on/run position you should have nominal 12 volts to the "ign" terminal. If you get power to ether the "ign" or "start" terminals with the switch in the off position then it's contacts are fried/welded together. If the solinoid is getting power with the shift in the neutral position, check the NSS to see if it's contacts are opening. It may also be out of adjustment or jumped out. BTW, we're always happy to help out but we also like to hear back from the member with the problem. You didn't come back and answer the questions we had in your other post on your starting problem when you asked what the voltage regulator was. I have to assume this post is the same problem? We're a concerned group here so out of courtesy keep us informed. Fill us in on the boat. Is it new to you? Get some pictures and a short story together and submit it to Keith (sites owner/administrator) so he can get it posted in the diaries section. You'll find "post your boat" in that section or use this link. "post your boat" |
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rdana
Newbie Joined: November-04-2009 Location: wichita ks Status: Offline Points: 17 |
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I need your help. We were going to winterize the boat,and when the engine turned over it did not start.I thought the battery was low and removed it to charge it up. When it was fully charged,I hooked it up and with the ignition switch in the off position it turned over. I had to remove the cable on the battery to stop it. I took a test light to the ignition switch,and what I found was,there was power to the yellow/red stripe wire with the shift knob in neutral. When I put the red wire on the batt,position on the switch.and the yellow/red on the starter pole,the solonoid will click wnen the ignition key is turned to start. BUT when the violet wire is attached to the ignition pole on the switch there is no power to the starter. I took off the violet wire and the solonoid would click again.Do I have a short or is it the way I have hooked up ??
Thanks Bob in Wichita. |
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