Boats For Sale:
Laminating question |
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WakeSlayer 
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Joined: March-15-2006 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 2138 |
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 Topic: Laminating questionPosted: February-01-2010 at 3:14pm |
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I have used West 404 as a thickener to a peanut butter texture. Not coming apart in your lifetime.
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Mike N
1968 Mustang |
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8122pbrainard
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Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41045 |
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Posted: February-01-2010 at 2:57pm |
Al, Very good product and I've used it on multiple projects however it's gap filling qualities aren't the greatest. You need some pretty decent fitting joints for it. Any problems you're concerned with using the filled epoxy? Also of key interest, a note from the "Rot Doctor": "You shouldn't have any problems if you glued with resorcinol and then coated with CPES, being sure that the resorcinol is fully cured before the CPES is applied. It's been done frequently and no one has ever come back and said they had problems. But definitely do not coat with CPES and then glue with resorcinol. The two compounds are not compatible at the face-to-face level. If you want to coat first with CPES then you're going to have to use an epoxy glue. Doc" |
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bkhallpass
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Joined: March-29-2005 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 4723 |
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Posted: February-01-2010 at 2:34pm |
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Dr CC,
Nope, plan is that it's never coming apart again in my lifetime. BKH |
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Livin' the Dream
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8122pbrainard
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Posted: February-01-2010 at 2:32pm |
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Brian,
Ok, got it and thought that's what you meant and was my reference to "blocking" Just wanted to make sure you weren't laminating for lenght. Since it's just the blocking, I'd just go with thickened epoxy. The glass between laminations technique is typical if someone is laminating up a composite like Coosa when using 8' lenghts. The glass between the laminations is making up some of the strength lost at the butt joints. |
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DrCC
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Posted: February-01-2010 at 2:22pm |
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Marine Resorcinol by Weldwood
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DrCC
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Posted: February-01-2010 at 2:19pm |
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So, why cloth? Do you need it to come apart easily, later on?
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bkhallpass
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Posted: February-01-2010 at 2:12pm |
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Original design on the secondary stringers is 3/4 doug fir, with foam in between pieces. As we've all seen from photos, some or even most of the guys are going to a solid contstruction by laminating 1Xs and 2Xs to achieve the proper widths on the secondary stringer where it accommodates the exhaust hose and mufflers.
Pete, the boat is gutted. The stringers are a replace not a repair. The main stringers are a single solid piece of Doug Fir. I went with 2X10X 14 to ensure singel piece construction. The only way I would have been laminating main stringers is if I had decided to go with Coosa. After thinking about it a bit, I decided that Coosa was not the right decision for me, for this boat, at this time. I may try a Coosa infrastructure on another boat down the road. Ok, so I have one vote from Dennis, cloth and epoxy. Any other votes? BKH |
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Hollywood
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Joined: February-04-2004 Location: Twin Lakes, WI Status: Offline Points: 13514 |
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Posted: February-01-2010 at 1:53pm |
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Isn't the original design of the midship section of the secondaries in a 2001 a lamination?
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8122pbrainard
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Posted: February-01-2010 at 9:02am |
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Brian,
Fill us in on what you're laminating together. You mention repair but I thought all you wood was pretty trashed. If a complete stringer (although I suggest continuous lengths) then yes on the cloth. If just some blocking then the cloth isn't needed. |
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82 Nautique 1
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Joined: January-06-2007 Location: Rock Island, IL Status: Offline Points: 265 |
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Posted: February-01-2010 at 1:49am |
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I used Epoxy resin and cloth.
keep in mind the hull angle changes and to keep the tops level across the top...The inside boards will be taller. Dry fit to the sizes first then combine them. Dennis |
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bkhallpass
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Posted: February-01-2010 at 1:45am |
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When laminating two or more pieces of wood for a stringer repair, what do you use between the surfaces?
Epoxy resin only? Exoxy resing and alayer of mat? Somthing else? BKH |
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Livin' the Dream
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DrCC wrote: