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Jeffs 1988 BFN Rebuild

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    Posted: May-01-2012 at 6:37pm
Thanks for posting Jeff... makes a real nice job... I found a YouTube clip..
Sorry about the accent we all don't speak that well.


At £1890 with our tax its not cheep...I think some of us will be thinking how can I make one..
Lets have a go
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jllogan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-01-2012 at 11:48am
wow I gotta get me one of those!!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BFNSport Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-01-2012 at 10:18am
Originally posted by SNobsessed SNobsessed wrote:

How did you peel the gelcoat off? Grinder? You did a nice job!

Thanks
I hiered it out the guy came to my house 3hrs later he was done.The tool is called a Gelplane made in the UK pretty pricey .I wish I had it when I did the inside of the boat alot less grinding and very little dust.
Some lite sanding and fairing and should be ready to spray the Gel on.
It was nice sweeped up with a broom when he was done.
Jeff
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SNobsessed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-01-2012 at 12:35am
How did you peel the gelcoat off? Grinder? You did a nice job!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BFNSport Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-01-2012 at 12:16am
Well finally got the hull peeled





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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BFNSport Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-02-2011 at 12:47am
Is the tape 2,4,8 cloth or biax? US Composites does not sell a biax in the 2,4,8 sizes.
In Turbos thread it was listed" 2,4,8 biax 12"over the top".Is it cloth tape than 12" biax to cap it off?

And I found 1708 that is described as "soft" it wont go vertical but will lay flat. Sound ok?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Keeganino Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-01-2011 at 12:09am
Run parallel with the stringers. Long, uninterrupted lengths are stronger than a bunch of pieces.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BFNSport Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-31-2011 at 8:58pm
Is 1708 going to be strong enough for the floor (over foam?)
I also had to remove all the hull glass my plan was to run 50” wide down the center then 50” wide down each side overlapping in the bilge .I’m not sure I like the bilge overlap but..
And if I have read correctly biax too wrap the stringers and cloth to finish. Running 2” ,4”8” my question is do I run tis parallel with the stringer or do I cut small strips and drape over diagonally going one way then the next up and down the stringer?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-17-2011 at 1:31pm
It wasn't I who mentioned RAKA!


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JoeinNY Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-17-2011 at 1:08pm
I have never heard anything bad about RAKA, some people feel it is better to work with and has the same finished qualities.. the extra cost is not huge. I just orded another few hundred pounds of stuff from US composites so I guess I am not exactly a convert yet but I may try Raka at some point.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-17-2011 at 12:20pm
Ive heard of Raka, but never used them. Maybe it was Pete who brought them up?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Morfoot Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-17-2011 at 11:47am


**Sorry for the thread jack**

I know most of the guys here use US composites to get their rebuild stuff but just for the sake of asking has anyone used or heard of Raka.com?

I was talking with one of the new guy's in the shop who is building a woody from scratch and suggested Raka instead of US. I'm just throwing this out there. Pete, Tim, Joe any of you guy's hear of them?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Morfoot Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-17-2011 at 11:47am
oops double posted
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BFNSport Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-16-2011 at 8:37pm
Originally posted by TRBenj TRBenj wrote:

Originally posted by BFNSport BFNSport wrote:


What if any precautions did you take with the bottom of your hull while working on it?

We braced our BFN at the chine right near the windshield, and again at the transom. We also blocked the keel in 2 or 3 places. Once supported, we brought the trailer up to the hull as a brace, though it didnt really hold much (if any) weight- it was there to prevent flexing. Id repost my picture, but Im not allowed!

I will let you post pictures or is it top secret squire stuff
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-16-2011 at 7:43pm
Originally posted by BFNSport BFNSport wrote:


What if any precautions did you take with the bottom of your hull while working on it?

We braced our BFN at the chine right near the windshield, and again at the transom. We also blocked the keel in 2 or 3 places. Once supported, we brought the trailer up to the hull as a brace, though it didnt really hold much (if any) weight- it was there to prevent flexing. Id repost my picture, but Im not allowed!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BFNSport Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-16-2011 at 7:12pm
Tim, Pete
What if any precautions did you take with the bottom of your hull while working on it? In your picture it looks close to the current state that mine is in. Is the 3 point stand still a viable solution when the hull is getting this “thin” it is very loose/flexible if that make any sense. I will be adding 2 more supports to the front under the windshield chine area, similar idea to what Greg did when he left it on the trailer.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BFNSport Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-16-2011 at 7:03pm
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Jeff,
You said the wood around the exhaust was OK but soft. I wouldn't take the chance on it and suggest you put new in. You're way into the hull anyway!!

I agree with Tim and it does look like you have some delam in the hull. Just as he mentioned, get the loose stuff up and replace it.

Pete,
I did remove the soft wood around the exhaust ports popped right out. My question was the center board in the middle of the transom (between the exhaust ports )that attaches to the lifting eye is dry and would not budge I would like to leave it in place. CPECS it and re-glass?
I spoke with US Composites today and I’m told I can use there thin 635 laminating epoxy for my CPES is that good info trying to order from one place.
Sorry have to be careful using my phone when replying to post.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-16-2011 at 5:41pm
Jeff,
You said the wood around the exhaust was OK but soft. I wouldn't take the chance on it and suggest you put new in. You're way into the hull anyway!!

I agree with Tim and it does look like you have some delam in the hull. Just as he mentioned, get the loose stuff up and replace it.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BFNSport Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-16-2011 at 4:23pm
Thanks TRBenj for the quick response.That was my hunch that I need to keep going.The wood around the exhaust ports was ok/a little soft but pryed out the center piecs will not budge and looks good ,OK to leave?
JMD
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-16-2011 at 4:15pm
We removed all glass that was used to attach the original stringers. That was no small task. Lots of work with the grinder, as well as flat bars to get it to peel up. In a few sections, more came up than we intended- we got hull glass up unintentionally. Might have been poor lamination or overzealous desctruction... or maybe a bit of both. We were sure to replace the hull glass in these sections (and then some).

Stringers out, but glass still in:



All stringer glass out:



You can see where we took too much glass off in the foreground of the last picture, just to the right of the keel.

Id say youre into the hull glass now. If its coming up easy, then take it off and be sure to replace it. If you can get to a spot where it comes off pretty hard, then grind the transition smooth and leave it.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BFNSport Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-16-2011 at 4:04pm
So is there a stopping point...LOL
Is this peeling apart because I have ground the top layer off? Or is this delaminating in the worst case?
Or should I have ground this far in the first place?

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BFNSport Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-15-2011 at 11:52pm
Originally posted by BuffaloBFN BuffaloBFN wrote:

I really like the stand/cradle. My concern is that you got 2 mains out of 1 2x6.

No, I didn't get the contact info. I'll look for it if you re-send. Sorry I missed it.

What would be the problm It was over sized laid the old stringers on the plank traced them out and cut.It was 18-20'long I think
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BuffaloBFN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-15-2011 at 11:23pm
I really like the stand/cradle. My concern is that you got 2 mains out of 1 2x6.

No, I didn't get the contact info. I'll look for it if you re-send. Sorry I missed it.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BFNSport Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-15-2011 at 11:16pm
Originally posted by BuffaloBFN BuffaloBFN wrote:

Luv that stand, but this concerns me a little...

Originally posted by BFNSport BFNSport wrote:

I was able to get both my stringers out of 1 board


Whys that Greg the ?..stand.I have a rachet strap going all the way around the transom.

Did you get my e-mail in regards to contact info.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BFNSport Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-15-2011 at 11:13pm
Well I have just been convinced epoxy is the way to go I just removed several pounds of glass and never touched a grinder
Here is my bilge that I thought I was done grinding and thought I could glass my stringers down.
Before

After

And the rudder port.Loooks like a bad repair.
Glad I dug more.




Looks like peanut brittle ,is this wood flour that I have been reading about?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BuffaloBFN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-15-2011 at 11:12pm
Luv that stand, but this concerns me a little...

Originally posted by BFNSport BFNSport wrote:

I was able to get both my stringers out of 1 board
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BFNSport Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-15-2011 at 10:54pm
Originally posted by Morfoot Morfoot wrote:

Jeff, when you go to repairing the goof cut your repair plys in rounded rectangles or circles making sure each ply has about 1/2" overlap over the prior one. Make the first ply slightly larger than the damage. Lay the smallest down first when you are ready to install it and work your way up to the largest ply.

If you have corners in your plies they will have more of a tendancy to lift up and secondly more stress is concentrated on corners. Rounding your repairs distributes load stresses more evenly and they lay down nicely. Making each ply bigger than the other makes for a stronger repair as you have 3 layers of glass bonded to the hull instead of just "one" thick one.






Thanks Morfoot
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Morfoot Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-14-2011 at 11:56am
Jeff, when you go to repairing the goof cut your repair plys in rounded rectangles or circles making sure each ply has about 1/2" overlap over the prior one. Make the first ply slightly larger than the damage. Lay the smallest down first when you are ready to install it and work your way up to the largest ply.

If you have corners in your plies they will have more of a tendancy to lift up and secondly more stress is concentrated on corners. Rounding your repairs distributes load stresses more evenly and they lay down nicely. Making each ply bigger than the other makes for a stronger repair as you have 3 layers of glass bonded to the hull instead of just "one" thick one.




"Morfoot; He can ski. He can wakeboard.He can cook chicken.He can create his own self-named beverage, & can also apparently fly. A man of many talents."72 Mustang "Kermit",88 SN Miss Scarlett, 99 SN "Sherman"
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dochockey Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-14-2011 at 2:37am
Originally posted by quinner quinner wrote:

Originally posted by dochockey dochockey wrote:

I'm in Richland (Gull Lake)


Been to Gull Lake a few times, been a while, IIRC local dealer was Ski Unique


They went out of business    They had a great mechanic.   (Gull lake Marine) bought their inventory. So the mechanic went there. Last summer he was killed on his motorcycle.
Gull lake is the deepest lake in lower Michigan.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BFNSport Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-14-2011 at 1:42am
A few more questions.My boat was over 50% gutted when I started and Im not sure what the floor was like.I just read the pumpkinpatch again and it sounds like 3/4 ply I like how Gregs turned out ,was that a factory reproduction or was all the ply of Gregs design? I did cut out under the dash forward and don t recall any ply floor.
Jeff
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