Problem with ballast resistor.

Assuming a new ballast resistor doesnt help, try the following to troubleshoot the system.
If your handy with a digital voltmeter, do some simple measurements. Measure the voltage right across the batt posts with engine running with common accessories on (blower, lights, radio etc.) and the voltage better climb to over 13.2 vdc. With the engine and everything off, and the ballast resistor connected, remove the dist cap and rotor for access to the points. Check to see if points are open, if not turn the engine over by hand until they open. Take the voltmeter and go across the coil (+ and - respecfully). Turn the ign key to on, and should read 0 volts. Short out the points with a small screwdriver and measure the voltage. Should read more than 7 volts. Move just the meter + lead to the output of the resistor and should get the same reading. Move the + lead again to the input of the resistor and should read over 10.5 volts. Then put meter + to the neg post of the coil and the - meter lead to a good ground on the engine (points still shorted/key on). This better read near 0 volts. This measures any voltage drop from ground to the coil. Hope this helps!! GOOD LUCK!!

Boat will not run proper without by-passing the ballast resistor. With ballast resistor the boat won't start properly, runs rough/lack of power and whill "choke"/backfire on heavy acceleration.

New for this year: distibutor cap and rotor, capacitor, ignition leads, point breaker and coil.

The volt gauge is not showing 14,4V, so we are thinking there may be a shortage or a bad grounding point, any ideas where to look?

With the ballast resistor bypassed, the boat runs perfectly and never missfires.

Any tips or any information on where grounding points may be located. we are also looking for a wire diagram whith voltage levels.

Greetings from dead-cold Sweden...