impeller removal

I just finished. I really thought it had seized but the vice grips brought it out pretty easily. The housing looked good but I did not read your post until after I was finished. I did not mess with the cam. It ran very good last season and twice this season already with the old impeller. The scalded face plate kind of scared me. We live in Burlington, my son lives at Lake Tillery. We would be glad to get together with your family at the lake anytime. The sandbar is open year round. Just give me a call. 336-266-0664 Wayne

I spoke with a guy at Skidim last week while trying to order a new impeller and there was some question about which model number was correct. The major difference was that one was a bit wider than the other. With that in mind the cover on the raw water pump(?) housing which holds the impeller was severely scalded a brown color which I buffed off. After removing both water lines from the housing it was obvious that some of the vanes from the impeller were broken off and just laying inside the housing with the bottom of the lower hose blown out. Could these rubber fragments get into a place that I now need to check or clean out and is there another issue which needs to be addressed? Thanks for all your help getting this great classic boat back in fighting shape, especially the previous prop and rpm issues. I bought and installed the OJ 12 x 13 as suggested, replaced the strut bushings, rebuilt the carb, and took it to Race City Marine in Mooresville to have the throttle linkage adjusted. I was amazed with just the prop change. It can only get better. Thanks again for the prompt responses.

Wayne,
The impeller simply slides on. No set screws or anything holding it but, Jabsco and Sherwood do make a pullers to make it easier if you want to go that route. Since you're putting a new one in, I suggest just going at it with a couple of screw drivers and pry it out or grab it with vise grips. They get about $70 for the puller!