Solenoid on 73 - Holman Moody |
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GottaSki
Grand Poobah Joined: April-21-2005 Location: NE CT Status: Offline Points: 3363 |
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Posted: June-17-2005 at 5:24pm |
M,
the NSS is very sensitive to cable adjustment and slop due to worn control components, like the brass barrel ends. Notice that the position of the tranny gear selector is slightly different whether you approach nuetral from reverse or forward. As things get sloppy that difference is exagerated. The tranny has a detent at nuetral that must be maintained with your adjustment of the cable. |
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"There is nothing, absolutely nothing, half so much worthwhile as messing around with boats...simply messing."
River Rat to Mole |
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Jim_In_Houston
Platinum Member Joined: September-06-2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 1120 |
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Brad_K, On a 12 volt system getting the engine wet will probably have very little or no effect on the electrical system. It could though. In asking the question I was hunting for ideas regarding the dim test light. I wash my engine down with a pressure washer alomst every time I pull the boat out of the water - (I just like things squeaky clean on and around the engine).
I am still stumped about the dim test light but I am pondering it. It just does not make any sense. I guess if it was my boat I would take a close look at the starter relay, not the solenoid. |
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Happy owner of a '66 and a '68 Mustang
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Brad_K
Groupie Joined: April-18-2005 Location: United Kingdom Status: Offline Points: 67 |
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What effect would you get if it had been washed and got wet?
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Jim_In_Houston
Platinum Member Joined: September-06-2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 1120 |
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M Lanser, can't you adjust the position of you NSS?
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Happy owner of a '66 and a '68 Mustang
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M Lanser
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JIH -
I just got the boat last September and it happened then a little bit and now again this spring. Nothing was done to the electrical system prior to me putting a new nuetral safety switch in. We used it pretty heavy this past weekend and it would work fine about 85% of the time. I have a hunch it is still the nuetral safety switch because when it did act up and I put way into reverse and back to neutral it started. Coincidence? Is it possible that whatever touches on the NSS is worn down so I am not getting a solid contact there? |
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Jim_In_Houston
Platinum Member Joined: September-06-2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 1120 |
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M Lanser,
Did this problem just occur all-of-a-sudden? Did you have the boat worked on or serviced recently? Did you have anything done to the electrical system recently? How long have you been living with the starter acting up? Has the engine been washed or otherwise gotten wet? |
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Happy owner of a '66 and a '68 Mustang
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JEFF KOSTIS
Gold Member Joined: April-19-2005 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 817 |
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My personal opinion is to troubleshoot the actual problem. If the solenoid is infact failed, then great! But if it isnt, and keep replacing things, it may never cure the problem. Electrical wiring/relays are straight foreward to troubleshoot unlike some other things. In order for solenoid to glow a test light at the +coil lead is almost impossible from an internal short. The solenoid is nothing but a ton of wire wrapped among a metal core with a strip of copper for the contacts. The coil and contacts are quite a distance apart from one another and have no connection to one another.
The purpose of the ballast resistor on the ign system is so that your ign coil doesnt cook if the key is left on with the points closed or running the engine at very low rpm. The reason for me to suspect a wiring problem is the fact that some engines bypass the resistor during cranking for a hotter spark and possibly backfeeding. Most definately a schematic makes life alot easier for some stuff. |
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David F
Platinum Member Joined: June-11-2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 1770 |
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I am guessing an internal short in the solenoid. The weird things are happening at the solenoid, so replace it and go from there.
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M Lanser
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Thanks Jeff -
What is the purpose of the ignition ballast resistor? I would like to find an original schematic so I can get to the bottom of some of these problems. I will have try isolating a couple of wires and see if I can get to the bottom of it. M. |
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JEFF KOSTIS
Gold Member Joined: April-19-2005 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 817 |
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hey m lancer, sounds weird is right. Try going across the coil terminals with the test light. If it only has one coil stud instead of 2, ground the test light to the solenoids metal case and check again. Another thing you can try if the coil tests ok , is ground the light to the engine and put the light on the big stud of the solenoid that goes to the starter. It should light up bright when you go to start.
The dim light issue is strange, it seems like something is backfeeding. Does the light go out from dim when the key is turned off? Has the wiring been played with in the past? Even a bad ground wouldnt cause that. Almost sounds like the ign. ballast resistor is wired incorrectly. Try removing the solenoid coil wire from the solenoid that made the test light glow dim and see if it gets brighter (on the wire-not the solenoid) when you take the wire off. |
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M Lanser
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Hello,
I am newbie to this site but have a question for the experts. My starter won't kick in some of the time - I just replaced the nuetral safety switch and it is still sporadic. I put a test light on the solenoid coil and it glows dim with the key on, but then glows bright with the key in "start" but the starter motor doesn't turn over. Seems like a classic solenoid problem to me but the glowing dim threw me for a loop. Any thoughts? Anybody know where I can get a schematic for a 302 Holman-Moody equipped? Thanks for your help! M. |
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