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79 Nautique Won’t crank once hot.

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GottaSki View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote GottaSki Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: 79 Nautique Won’t crank once hot.
    Posted: June-20-2005 at 3:07pm
I concur, and perhaps put in a 'rebuild engine' dash light, because the oil pressure gauge was ineffectual.
"There is nothing, absolutely nothing, half so much worthwhile as messing around with boats...simply messing."

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David F View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote David F Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-20-2005 at 2:05pm
"Varsol" Now theres a product I have not heard of or seen in many years. When I was a kid, my father had five gallons cans of Varsol on hand at all times. He used it for everything...I think he made us drink it when we sick Do they still make it? Isn't it sort of like Kerosene?

Anyway, some people swear by Marvel Mystery oil in the crankcase. My take is that if your engine needs internal cleaning, you are better off leaving it alone as cleaning attempts may dislodge the crude that could plug important oil passages.

If there is truely zero oil pressure (not a guage problem) then you may as well go ahead a do a complete rebuild as you will have to pull the engine anyway to get to the oil pump.

My guess on the knocking sound is a spun bearing(s) caused by no oil pressure.
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axlr8or View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote axlr8or Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-20-2005 at 4:45am
Hehehee. I don't know what it is with people dumping stuff into the oil pan other than oil.

My sister's kids like to drop rocks down into the cities access to the water supply. Maybe its the same thing.

I've only used engine oil flushes twice, and one time it was a doozy. It sped up the fact that the motor hadn't been reassembled properly by the guy that rebuilt the engine. We were just getting ready to sell the thing, too.

Older motors like these, there is no harm in using 50w. Diesel trucks like it, so do old motors. Heck, I used to use 20/50 in a 2.5 four cylinder I had and it loved it. So much for what it said on the cap (5/30) That motor went 230K miles with me beating on it.

I believe the newer ones are specificaly designed for 5w, so if I had a new car, I'd use it. As for my older war machines, its 10/40 or 20/50
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jimbo View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jimbo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-12-2005 at 2:41am
Drano lol
I dump a can of B-12 in the fuel tank of the boat and the truck every now and then. I've always been intriged by their instructions to pour a can in the crank case, run the engine for a few minutes, then drain the oil. I've never tried it and I can't find anybody who has but it's bound to do something (other than increase their sales). I wouldn't try it on my boat; it might make my compression even lower

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jim_In_Houston Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-11-2005 at 1:18am
Not in my crankcase!!!! However, when we were kids building hot rods, if we had a gunked up engine we would pour a quart of varsol in the crank case, run an hour and drain - I'm smarter than that now. (I think.)

Let us know what happens Georgia Fan.

(But then, if I was about to spend $3500 I might pour anything into the crank case to see if it helps - Olive Oil, Jack Black, or even Draino, if I thought there was a chance....)

Sorry Jimbo, I just had to poke fun...


But I really would pour all kinds of stuff in my engine if I was about to spend $3500 on it - I might even follow the Draino with a bag of Portland Cement.
Happy owner of a '66 and a '68 Mustang
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Georgia Fan View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Georgia Fan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-10-2005 at 8:09pm
I took the boat in and had it looked over. They recommend that I have the engine opened and let them have a look. They are going to charge me $150 to tell me whats wrong with the engine. They said best case $1200 worst case $3500. I guess I'm going to let them have a look inside. The guy who owns the shop is trustworthy and rides a 82 Nautique every weekend. I feel like he knows what it takes to fix the boat.

Georgia Fan
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jimbo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-10-2005 at 6:01pm
Check your oil pressure with a gauge to make sure it is infact low. Or, replace the sending unit ($15). Replace with a marine unit...the automotive ones won't work properly. Stupid question, but you checked the oil level, right? You may need to replace the oil pump.
If it's got curdy valve stems, would anyone suggest running B-12 Chemtool through the crankcase?
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Jim_In_Houston View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jim_In_Houston Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-10-2005 at 5:51pm
Georgia Fan, is this the first time you ran the boat this summer? Was it winterized? From what you have said it is probably siezing when it warms up. You are going to have to find the cause of the zero oil pressure reading before you run the engine again. If you are real lucky curing the no oil pressure problem could make the symptoms disappear and get you back in the water, but what ever damage is done you are going to have to live with - bad news.

In the case of my girlfriend I am tempted to put a shock device on the driver's seat so low oil pressure will let her know something is up. You just have to watch that gauge.
Happy owner of a '66 and a '68 Mustang
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David F View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote David F Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-10-2005 at 3:26pm
Not sure on a Ford engine, but once I rebuild a Chevy and purchased a new oil pump complete with pick-up tube. After a few miles of driving with the freshly rebuild engine, I heard a noise in the engine and my oil pressure idiot suddenly illuminated. Before I could safely pull of the freeway, the valve train started to clatter. Since the Chevy oil pump is driven off the bottom of the distributor, I immediately pulled the distributor to inspect this connection. I found one of the ears broken off the pump drive shaft. So, I had to pull the engine to replace this shaft and inspect the cause. Turns out that during manufactur of the oil pump pick-up, someone had simply hack sawed the tube the length and did not de-burr the cut. One of the burrs dislodged from the pick-up and jammed the oil pump gears. Needless to say I inspect all new oil pump before installation from that day forward.

Now I believe the Ford oil pump is driven the same way, but via a hex rod/socket not a tab and slot like the Chevy. Pull the distributor and inspect this connection.
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Georgia Fan View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Georgia Fan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-10-2005 at 3:00pm
What would cause the oil pressure to go to zero?

Georgia Fan

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David F View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote David F Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-10-2005 at 1:24pm
Hmmm....here is a thought: Since you are running the engine with out oil pressure, your valve lifters are not pumping up and you are hearing the resultant clatter from the slop in the valve train. Also, I suspect you are siezing the engine.

Hopefully I am wrong, but whenever an oil pressure guage reads zero, you shut down the engine immediately and determine the cause and repair before running the engine again.
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Aussie Ken View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Aussie Ken Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-10-2005 at 1:52am
Here's a guess but one that happened to me in my old boat with a Chrysler engine.

Mine would do similar. Start up nice when cold, once warm it would start to knock & then all of a sudden stall. Then it would not turn over at all until cold.

Problem - rust on the valve stems causing a valve to be stuck open. Pistons expand when hot causing it to initially valve bounce & then sieze onto the stuck valve. After it cooled down there was a slight clearance again & the situation would repeat.

Took me quite a while to work it out, had the heads done & it was gold.

I would check that as well as work out if you really do have 0 oil pressure as that is most likely the catalyst for whatever your problem actually is.
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Georgia Fan View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Georgia Fan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-10-2005 at 12:01am
The other day I went out on the lake and ran the boat wide open for a few minutes. I pulled the boat down to a stop. The boat died. Well I replaced the battery cables and it cranked right up. Now when I run the boat, about 30mph at 1800 RPM, the enigine has a knocking sound. (I also hear the knocking sound when I rev the engine in neutral to about 1500 rpms) And when I cut the boat, it turns over put will not crank. I let it cool for about 30 min and it cranks right back up. I need advice.

Few facts I know:
    -I have not replace plugs or wires in about 2 years. I just change the oil impeller.
    -I didn't knock before I ran it wide open.
    -My oil pressure gauge reads almost 0 all the time. I really think it read like 40 0r 60 before, but I'm really not sure.

a) What do you think the engine knocking is from?

b) Why do you think the boat will not recrank when shut off while warm/hot about 180 degrees.

Thank you very much for helping me with my problem.

Georgia Fan
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