Solenoid Sticking |
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TPR471
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Posted: June-19-2005 at 12:53pm |
I had the same prolem with my 82 SN. Several solenoids later I checked the ground and that was the problem. I ground the mounting plate and the area it was mounted to and still had the same problem. I put jumper wire from the mounting bolt on the solenoid to the engine and it works fine now.
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JEFF KOSTIS
Gold Member Joined: April-19-2005 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 817 |
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Solenoids should not stick that often. The battery cables and size of battery have absolutely nothing to do with them sticking unless they continously chatter due to low voltage. The solenoids come in 2 models: A continuous rated coil and an intermittent duty coil. You should have an intemittent duty coil (referred to as a starter solenoid most of the time). A continuous duty coil soleniod looks identical and can say they are starter solenoids but usually have about 1/2 the current rating. Generally solenoids can fail due to overtightening of the studs which causes the internal contacts to rotate a bit and go out of alignment causing them to weld together.
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dallasbaker
Newbie Joined: May-14-2005 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 3 |
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Thanks Guys,
I am going to try the battery replacement first. This makes sense to me because I had previously had a normal auto battery in it with no problems. It seems my troubles came along soon after a went to a deep cycle battery. I want a spare anyways. |
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David F
Platinum Member Joined: June-11-2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 1770 |
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PCM/CC recommends the type 43 marine battery that has a cold cranking amp rating of 380 amps. Seems low to me, but that is what is in my Owners Manual. Higher cold cranking amps will do no harm.
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GottaSki
Grand Poobah Joined: April-21-2005 Location: NE CT Status: Offline Points: 3363 |
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If it turns out not to be the cables...
This sticky solenoid thing happens often to people who install an underrated battery or deep cycle battery. The Deep cycle batteries have too much internal resistance and drop voltage under high current demand, the solenoid chatters because it looses holding force and arcs the contacts together. 750 CCA is bare minimum for a small block; find a real 825-875 starting battery, no fish-motor battery. |
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"There is nothing, absolutely nothing, half so much worthwhile as messing around with boats...simply messing."
River Rat to Mole |
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Furno
Groupie Joined: June-13-2005 Location: Clarkston, Mi Status: Offline Points: 49 |
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I had the same problem on my '83 a couple years ago. I rebuilt the starter and replaced the solenoid. Still same problem. I then bought what they called a 'heavy duty' solenoid from the local SN dealer, still same problem. I was talking with an electrical engineer and he asked how old the battery cables were. I assumed they were original. He suggested checking the ground and if that did not help, replacing them. He explained that the wire will sometimes get corroded and break down, not letting enough current through resulting in drawing too much through the positive cable. I didn’t quite understand it, but thought what’s it going to hurt? I went to my local electrical shop and they custom built some out of heavy wire, and no problems since. I think it was 2-O welding wire and they soldered the ends on. (It only took 4 solenoids to get it right.)
Hope this helps. There’s nothing worse that trying to disconnect the battery when the motor is turning over. Andy Michigan |
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Andy
'83 2001 |
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dallasbaker
Newbie Joined: May-14-2005 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 3 |
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I am on my 3rd solenoid for my 90' Sport Nautique. I have had the starter rebuilt and the wiring is good. Am I just using bad solenoids? They do not stick every time, but each time they do a tap on them with a screwdriver does the trick.
Anyone else have this problem? |
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