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New Guy with New Boat

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    Posted: September-20-2010 at 10:01pm
Sounds good - all I need now is a rain day !
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-20-2010 at 2:04pm
Bill,
Try to check every filled area over the screws. Poking them with a awl will usually pop them out if they and loose. Remove those screws and go oversized as mentioned. Fill them with the Famowood.

Reef all the seams paying real close attention to where the oil has seeped through. Get some oil dry and grind it to a powder in a mortar and pestle. Add a strong solvent such as zylene but not as strong as acetone which evaporates too fast. Since the hull isn't flipped, now the hard part is getting this mix (poultice) into the oily seam overhead. The best way is to get one of the empty tubes for the caulking gun. Fill the tube with the mix and inject like you would caulking. The solvent will loosen up the oil and the oil dry will suck out the oil. A couple applications may be needed.


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77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote customskier Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-20-2010 at 1:29pm
There 3 screw heads showing, not anywhere near eachother. There does seem to be some oil that has seeped through from the engine long ago ?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-20-2010 at 9:59am
Originally posted by Brady Brady wrote:

Pete,
That old differential chain fall looks familiar, I like it old boat, old fall!

That reminds me, when are you going with the electric? You've got most of it done already with the parts I made for you!! How long ago was that? 25 years? Procrastination?


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77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Brady Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-20-2010 at 9:26am
Pete,
That old differential chain fall looks familiar, I like it old boat, old fall!
Charlie
Three Lakes, Wisconsin
69 Barracuda
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-20-2010 at 9:09am
Bill,
Again, are you finding any loose screws? You're asking about the filler over the screws and it usually comes out when the scews are loose and the ply is loose from the frames. One by itself isn't bad but in a group it's saying there is a problem in that area. Again, check out the bottom for loose screws/loose ply to frames/keel/stem. I'd hate for you to go through all this work and then have a bad area open up a week after it's in the water.

If you do find a few loose screws, you can go one dia. size larger. Use silicon bronze (from Jamestown) and NO stainless.

If anyone tells you a wood hull needs to be soaked in the lake to become watertight, they are very mistaken. There is only one hull type that needs soaking - the single planked on batten hull. A double planked and a ply hull like yours should never leak. If they do, there is a problem.

I suggest you pull the through hull for the cooling water pickup and rebed it after the bottom's done. The prop shaft and the shaft log wouldn't be a bad idea ether. The hull hole for the shaft is always a area that bottom maintenance is overlooked.

120 grit before any CPES and the Interlux Interprotect 2000E. Famowood (again from Jamestown) filler over the screws.

Do you have any spots where oil from the bilge is visible at seams on the outside of the hull? The one picture you posted looks like some oil but it's hard to tell. Oil saturated wood is a problem even with 5200 used in the seams. If you do see any spots after reefing the seams, I've got a hint on how to deal with it.



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77 Tique

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Keep it original, Pete
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote customskier Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-19-2010 at 11:35pm
Which grit sanding discs should I use ? What kind of filler or caulk should be used over the screw heads ?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-19-2010 at 10:54pm
Bill,
Looks like your Compact did have the yellow bottom from the factory. Then blue.... then red...... then the bronze!!!!

Clean all the old paint from all the seams and post some pictures. I wish there was a easy way to clean them out. A reefing tool works good but the seams need to be wide enough to use one. I have seen a pressure washer used but extreme care must be used so you don't damage the wood.

BTW, congratulations on posting the pictures!


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77 Tique

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote customskier Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-19-2010 at 9:44pm
The picture with the red paint has a shadow by the center strip, thats not a large gap. The stripper is working well. Thank you all for your help , Bill.
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Well I guess I know how to post pictures now. The next step will be taking better ones !!! Sorry it took me so long.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-19-2010 at 4:11pm
Originally posted by customskier customskier wrote:

Should I sand or use paint stripper to remove the 3 coats of old paint on the bottom of our boat ? There is about .020" between the joints in the center of the bottom and the outside trim board along bottom. Do these joints need to be caulked, if so with what, or just painted shut ???

Bill,
You'll be sanding forever!! Go with the stripper. You're most likely have to use a methylene chloride (zip strip) as the paint that's on there is probably pretty tough.

Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Any of the seams opening up?

So, they are opened up!! You had better take a even closer look at the condition of screws and bungs! The CC wood hull suffers from the bedding compound (Dolfinite type) used as a filler as well as between all the frames and the hull. With age, this dries out and the only thing holding the ply (or planking) on is the screws. If not corrected by removing the ply and refastening with 5200, no amount of caulking will stay put in the seams. The movement will just loosen it up.

No, painting the seams "closed" won't do it!

We'll be waiting for the pictures.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote customskier Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-19-2010 at 2:44pm
I'm sorry to report no progress with resizing photos, but I'll be getting some help soon. I did get the boat off the trailer and in my shop. Should I sand or use paint stripper to remove the 3 coats of old paint on the bottom of our boat ? There is about .020" between the joints in the center of the bottom and the outside trim board along bottom. Do these joints need to be caulked, if so with what, or just painted shut ???
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote customskier Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-17-2010 at 12:31pm
Don't worry, no thoughts of repower or going fast. I don't like to see anything old be hacked.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-17-2010 at 9:07am
Originally posted by customskier customskier wrote:

Does anyone know the weight of a compact skier ? What years were they produced, (in wood). Was a V-8 engine an option ? What kind of top speed, (in MPH) ??? Thanks, Bill.

Bill,
Have you had a chance to take a look at the referrence section and the brochures? Lots of info over there.

The Compact was pretty short lived. They came out in 61 and went till roughly 63 when most of the wood hulls weren't being made anymore. The Compact didn't continue to be made in glass. They came with 4's and 6's the biggest being the 100HP 170 cu. in. Interceptor which is the next larger size engine to the one you have. With yours, expect it to do around 35 mph. Weight I'd estimate at 1600lbs.

What are you thinking? I certainly hope you aren't considering a repower! I can't stress enough the importance of keeping that boat original!! A non original engine is a mandatory points deduction with the ACBS and it will severely hurt the value/salability if you ever want to sell it. I don't even want to dream about what the dog house (engine box) would look like with a V8 in that boat!

EDIT:
Bill,
Also, go to the diaries section and enter "Compact Skier" and you'll see other members Compact's.


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77 Tique

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote customskier Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-16-2010 at 11:54pm
Does anyone know the weight of a compact skier ? What years were they produced, (in wood). Was a V-8 engine an option ? What kind of top speed, (in MPH) ??? Thanks, Bill.
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I'll try it tomorrow - going to be a rainy day here, Thanks.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SNobsessed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-16-2010 at 12:42am
In a pinch I just right click on the picture & email it to myself. there is an option to compress it in outlook. Works fine.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Keeganino Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-15-2010 at 11:52pm
Originally posted by customskier customskier wrote:

I made it though to part of resizing the picture - I do not know how to do that ?


The easiest way to deal with your picture size problem is to set the resolution on your camera as low as it will go which will probably be 640x480. Take some new pics like that and when you upload them resizing is not needed.

Once you are on the forum you want to post the pics click on the full reply arrow which looks like this Then click on this icon to upload the picture from your computer.

Hope this helps. I want to see more pics of this beauty!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-15-2010 at 11:00pm
Bill,
If you don't have the downsizing on your computer and end up having to go to photobucket, there's another set of instructions for getting the pictures from it onto CCfan. I didn't tell you anything about that yet! I didn't want you to go into computer overload!! Don't worry - I was real rough on computer skills as well - still am at times!!!


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77 Tique

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote customskier Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-15-2010 at 10:39pm
Okay, I'll try it soon, I just made some room in my shop and got inside today. When I get it off the trailer I should be able to get some good pictures of the bottom. Thanks for helping me !
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-15-2010 at 8:06pm
Originally posted by customskier customskier wrote:

I made it though to part of resizing the picture - I do not know how to do that ?

Bill,
Did the site tell you the pictures were too big?

There are a couple of ways to do it. Since you have pictures on your computer, you must have some type of photo software. Many of these have resizing features built in. If so, try resizing them to 640x480.

The other is to use a on line photo service such as www.photobucket.com These are free and all you need to do is sign up (and put up with the pop up ads on the site ). I'm sure it will take some getting used to but you set the size that the CCfan site likes which is "large" (640x480). Then, you download the pictures off your computer onto photobucket and it automatically resizes each picture.


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Keep it original, Pete
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote customskier Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-15-2010 at 5:47pm
I made it though to part of resizing the picture - I do not know how to do that ?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-15-2010 at 5:11pm
Bill,
How about giving posting pictures a try. We'd love to see more!


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote customskier Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-15-2010 at 4:40pm
In the before pictures, there was a spot just over the exhaust that looked like the plywood was delaminated and there was a hole that happened when the boat was backed into the corner of a workbench. There are 6 photos of the transom being replaced - no transom, just the frame work, a new one unfinished, spot puddied, and last the new one. Maybe the corner was in just a bit, and he brought it out with the filler ? I see no rot or filler inside.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-15-2010 at 12:59pm
Bill,
The price seems appropriate but work is needed. I'd worry about transom frame and stem rot in the areas where the ply hull skin have been patched.

You mentioned the seller "changing the transom"? From the picture, I don't see any evidence of that. Can you elaborate?

BTW, forward near the stem, the waterline goes over the spray rail and then continues forward to the stem. Below it is bottom paint but above its bright finished (stain/varnish) IE: The bottom paint does not go all the way to the bottom of the spray rail near the stem.


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Keep it original, Pete
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote customskier Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-15-2010 at 12:02pm
Thanks for the info. The guy gave me some pictures of the boat when he got it, and the process of him changing the transom. I'm new to boating, but fairly handy at repairing things, ( I can use all the help I can get ). What do you think of the price we paid ?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-15-2010 at 9:23am
Bill,
This Compact did come up on site when it was first listed on ebay. The only error in the listing is the displacement of the engine. It's a 144 and not the 200 cu. in. if it is the 85HP. Here's some pictures for everyone:





It looks like some kind of filler has been use to fair the bottom as well as patch the transom. Without seeing them in person, it's hard to say how long these will hold. The boat was not restored but had a cosmetic job only. A restoration would have replaced the bad wood and most likely the complete bottom.

The bottom has been done in a bronze bottom paint. This most likely came from the factory. The later Compacts did have the bronze and it was a option on earlier models. The only bronze you can get now due to the EPA removing the tin from the traditional anti fouling bronze is a hard racing bronze. It's not anti fouling but does have the same look. Pettit makes it. Pettit 1959 bronze

I suggest getting down to as much wood as you can, get some CPES (clear penetrating epoxy sealer) on it, then Interlux Interprotect 2000E before you go with the bronze. These coatings can be found at Jamestown which is the link I provided.

Congratulations on the purchase. Tell us more. Are you new to boating?

Get some pictures and some text submitted for the diaries. There's a link in that section for the application.

Posting pictures is pretty easy. Use the "post reply" rather than the "quick reply". You'll see a icon with a tree and a up arrow on it. Clicking on it will bring up a browse window that allows you to pick pictures that are on your computer. If they are too big for the site, resizing will be needed.


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77 Tique

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Keep it original, Pete
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote customskier Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-15-2010 at 12:21am
I'm not too computer savvy, I have pictures but don't how to post them. This boat was on Ebay, check completed items 1962 Correct Craft.
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