battery connections

I think I got 7 and 9 cables for mine. wanted a little extra for easy routing.

I am with David here...Those wingnuts type connections are trouble. I use a group 31 automotive type battery with 3/8 studs for posts, then SOLDER not crimp 3/8 eyelets on the cables mounted with stainless lock nuts. Same battery and no connection issues for almost 3 years. Just a little extra $$ and a little more efort in this aera will save you a big headache out on the water.

EVERY outboard motor manufacturer supplies cables for the wingnut posts with their new motors... Nearly every inboard I have seen during my last 2.5yrs in the marine repair business uses the wingnut posts as well.

I will offer this advice, get the tin plated copper terminal ends and true "marine grade" battery cables (tinned wire, more strands, better insulation, more flexible) and you can make your own cables at home that are WAY better than what you can purchase.

DO NOT use the wingnuts supplied with your marine battery; replace them with 5/16" or 3/8" locking nuts and tighten them with a wrench. 50% to 80% of all the 'dead battery' and 'won't start' problems we see at the shop are attributed to loose battery connections where some pansy has barely tightened those wingnuts and the connection, all though it will run the radio, horn, lights, and register on the boat's voltmeter, it CAN'T conduct the couple hundred amps required to crank the engine.