Electrical/ fuel challenges

Paul,

All is good! The RWP is flowing and cooling well. I checked all hoses for leaks and flow. Stayed around 150 -160 degres. Seems to have been the problem. Thanks. I still do not understand how the water rose to enter the engine? The exhaust flapper was sucked in when I pulled it out of water at that instance.
This has been challenging and frustrating for me and the girls, but I think that I have it straight now, and am thankful for the lessons, and the help offered here. Just may have enough time for some wakeboarding!
Unfortunatly my "star" wakeboarder broke her ankle on the trampoline, but offers the opportunity for her two sisters to surpass her!

Paul,

Thanks again!

To answer your questions;

Yes it was deep enough in water. It has been on the lake prior too, I have about 17 hours on rebuild, maybe 14-15 under way. There have been some instances where the temp rose, but higher rpms seemed to lower. No leaks in hoses, no water (excessive) in bilge.
It has the "hi rise PCM" manifolds. The "log" I refer to is the tubular fiberglass crossover that is mounted to the rear over my most recent coil and breaker issue? I have to laugh!

Well. I changed the impeller and while the blades were still there, barely! This I should have changed, or inspected, I accepted the previous owners statement as true, when he said it had been replaced recently. It was BAD.
In retrospect, perhaps I had the boat, (still on trailer) angled in too deep? And water flushed up and over? Could the bad impeller caused suction? Heat of the engine?

Either way, THANK GOD, I did not seize a brand new engine!! I changed the oil and it seems fine.
I have NOT put it in the lake as it is late and so am I to an important dinner. It is all back together, new impeller, belts tight, idleing right and soundin fantastic! Temp good. (on the hose)Tomorrow I will test it, and I will take your advice and feel hoses, and I should see water and movement in the glass filter? How do I "feel" the manifold? Heat or movement?


Let me see, thats 26 beers I owe you now!!
How do I post a picture? It was taking long.

Definitely check the RWP. I had a similar issue when my impeller disintegrated a few years ago. My motor filled with water too.

How exactly that happened, I have no clue, but a new impeller and an oil change fixed it.

Thanks again!! I have checked all wiring prior to "conversion" of coil/distributer, and all seems correct.
My VOM is a Sperry DM-350A, and I am having troubles understanding the amp reading set up??? They are not the most user friendly unit! I will enlist the help of a buddy that has electrical knowledge to inspect, but I may just replace the unit in frustration. I would like to know if I do have an improper load on.
Do you think the tach not working may be involved? I have NOT inspected behind the dash yet?

Jerry,
I mentioned the clamp on probe because the amps are higher that what most VOM's can handle. At best, you can only send 20 amps directly through them.

You what to get a reading before the breaker trips. After, you'll get zero since there isn't any current flow. Hopefully you'll get a reading below 50 proving it's just a bad breaker. You want the reading on the "load" side of the breaker. If it's not a breaker problem, then you'll have to start hunting down what's pulling all the current. We can get into that later. If you can't find a clamp on, you could just get a new main breaker but I always push testing first before just swapping out parts.

Jerry,
I can probably help out with the electrical but the carb issue I'll let others comment. BTW you may get some comments on the carb brand!

Yes breakers will go bad especiaaly if they have been tripped a lot. Before you get another one, see if you can borrow (if you don't have one) a clamp on current probe and VOM (volt Ohm meter). Make sure it's rated to read DC. Then, use it to check what current is actually going through the breaker.

How's the battery condition? A weak or bad battery will suck the amps! What's on the engine for a alternator?