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Misaligned / Cracked Strut

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Grand Poobah
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    Posted: October-06-2010 at 10:17am
Or let my wife drive it!!! Mine came right off once I got the thread streched bolts out.
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kapla View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kapla Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-05-2010 at 10:59pm
don't pry with the screwdriver..i did so and ended up damaging the gel..ouch
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akabulla View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote akabulla Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-05-2010 at 10:33pm
HA! Guess we were typing at the same time!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote akabulla Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-05-2010 at 10:32pm
Pete, The throw is the same in both directions on the rudder. I haven't tried a new cable. It is the cable that came with all those parts when I bought the boat but it does seem like a newer cable.

The boat tracks dead straight at any speed but when turning I can use one finger to turn it to the left and it will keep left almost by itself. When turning to the right I have to pull pretty hard on the wheel and hold it or it will turn right back out and go straight. While in the right turn there is ALOT of pressure on the wheel.

AZ64-X55 I have read a lot about removing the strut. Some say it just falls off after the four screws have come off and others say that the sealer holding it on is pretty tough to break free. If it is hard to break free I have done the battery and cable trick before. Take a 12 volt battery and some thicker wire. Connect it at both ends and expose a piece of the wire right in the middle. It will get really hot and you can wedge it between the strut and the hull and it will cut right through the old 5200 or what ever that stuff is they use at the factory. Hopefully mine will just be one of the ones that falls off!

You could also put a small block off wood on the hull and try to gently pry on the strut with a screw-driver.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-05-2010 at 10:11pm
Originally posted by AZ64-X55 AZ64-X55 wrote:

A freind of mine has been having trouble removing the strut, being set up in the hull, as the picture shows!
any suggestions on removal?

Hot air gun on the strut and dead blow hammer. If that doesn't work, it can be hot wired off. It's just a PITA getting the wire started between the strut and the hull when they are set in the recess.


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Keep it original, Pete
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AZ64-X55 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-05-2010 at 9:07pm
A freind of mine has been having trouble removing the strut, being set up in the hull, as the picture shows!
any suggestions on removal?
just do it!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-05-2010 at 7:44pm
Originally posted by akabulla akabulla wrote:

I think getting the prop more in the center and the engine more centered this will help with the boat turning more even in both directions. What do you guys think?

With that crack, I'd suggest a new strut. If you want to try a repair, it can be welded. Weld it after the strut is straightened since it's likely the crank will get worse.

I don't feel you'll notice much difference in steering. Check to make sure the rudder travel is equal in both directions.

Have you installed a new cable recently?


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-05-2010 at 7:17pm
Originally posted by Fl Inboards Fl Inboards wrote:

Do not repair, Replace!! The new strut will have a new cutless bearing in it, however the XPC will free up the shaft in the bore and run smoother over the stock brass and rubber compond bearing.

For those of us staring down an expensive strut replacement, are there any other options to get a new strut with an XPC bushing other than to buy them both and scrap the new rubber/brass?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote akabulla Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-05-2010 at 7:13pm
Ok, thanks for the advice Jody. I think I will do that.

and again thanks for the PP, it was so nice having it this summer!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Fl Inboards Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-05-2010 at 7:10pm
Do not repair, Replace!! The new strut will have a new cutless bearing in it, however the XPC will free up the shaft in the bore and run smoother over the stock brass and rubber compond bearing.
Hobby Boats can be expensive when the hobbyist is limited on their own skill and expertise.




1993 Shamrock "fat" 20. 2008 Nautique 196 5.0
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akabulla View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote akabulla Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-05-2010 at 6:05pm
When I did my rebuild the only thing I didn't mess with was the strut.

I figured I would correct a small issue this winter. The strut when looking at it from the back is off set to the right of the rudder.



I am pretty sure it is bent a little and also has a crack right at the base:



The boat turns really easy to the left and when backing up the rear moves to the port side. I know this is typical but it is more on the extreme side and the prop on the starboard side of the rudder promotes this even more.

Also when I aligned the engine it is as far as possible to the port side of the boat.

I think getting the prop more in the center and the engine more centered this will help with the boat turning more even in both directions. What do you guys think?

Now the real question is do I send the strut off to get it repaired and straightened or do I buy a new one at $299 a pop? I also want to replace the bearings so which ones are better? The copper ones or the XPC ones?

Later
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