351 Dolley???

62 wood wrote: skutsch wrote: Threadajack alert!!! Sorry guys, Pete the color on that motor, would you say that is pretty close to the original interceptor color? If so do you have the color formula? Pete, thats not good ol "rattle can" Alpine Green is it?

Steve K.,
Sorry I missed your question. Steve W. is correct that the Flexifour is painted with off the shelf Alpine Green engine paint. However, it's not exactly the same that Interceptor used. Theirs had more blue in it than green. There's been quite a few threads about duplicating the Interceptor color paint. Bruce struggled with it as well. A great match I've seen is the paint Reid came up when he did the job on the 390 he did. Billy just finished the 312 for Roger but he took the easy way out and used the Alpine. He was supposed to get in touch with the Hilpisch father and son team that is into Centurys, Y blocks and Dearbomatics but I don't think he ever did. From the pictures I've seen of their Interceptor restorations, they seem to have gotten as close or better than Reid got.

Steve,
Email me at work: pbrainard@shale-inland.com and I'll send you the Hilpisch's email address. he makes up decal sets for the Y blocks as well. I take it you're doing something with Dad's boat!!



BTW, I did do my research on the flexi Universal paint. I found out via one of the old timers on oldmarineengine.com that the alpine was correct. I also compared paint chips from under the oil pump flange (protected from a color change) as a confirmation.

Mike,
I couldn't respond through your member profile for your request for stringer dimensions. I used a 1x8 to scribe a template of the stringers. Once the template was scribed to within 1/8 of an inch of the hull, I transferred the template to the real stringer and adjusted the top height to make sure it was level front to rear. Then I planed the edges to match the angle of the 'V' in the hull. This took a while, so I left the top of the stringer tall so I could rip it down to the floor height after the bottom was shaped. The first primary was the hardest, and I used the same template for both primaries. I don't know how close you could come with stringer dimensions on a paper template. I'd still transfer that onto a cheap piece of wood before cutting up the good stuff.

connorssons wrote: Hay Pete! whats that motor for? is that handle a crank on back for starting. way cool.

Jeff,
You must have missed my rebuild thread. No super sucker needed It's going in a 1918 launch that's due for restoration in my new shop!

Here is what I have come up with. I had the base from an old outboard stand I used to hold a 90 HP outboard. I set up the engine stand this afternoon but had to abort the removal of the engine when the goblins started showing up at my house expecting candy. Maybe tomorrow...

PS Thanks for the help!

That's pretty much the idea Pete, now drop it on the dolly and you can move it around the shop pretty easily.

Thanks for the replies guys. I got the stand built yesterday. Pics to follow. I hope to pluck her out today. I am removing a trailer wheel to drop the trailer down a few inches to be sure that I clear the boat when the engine is on the cherry picker.

Thanks again

TRBenj wrote:    Im not sure I would put much faith in a Harbor Freight tool. .

Not bad advice but I do have 2 of the stands shown and they seem to handle a small block ford without much of an issue. I agree with the wooden carts to handle an engine and trans.. I have done the same. For storage of an engine only you can typically find something similar to this dolly in the 20-25 dollar range at one of the bigger automotive swap meets or shows. Sadly I have had the 302 from my 67 mustang on one of those for 3 or 4 years now..

OverMyHead wrote: I liked the $90 frieght on the $50 stand.

That is pretty funny! We have them all over the WI, so freight usually isn't an issue.

I stay away from their "tools" but I have found for stands and carts and those kind of things, they are a decent buy.

I guess, admittedly, I have not done a lot of boat engine work, but I mess around a lot with my neighbor on his hot rods. He runs a blown 460 in a model A, so we are always yanking that engine to "refresh" it. We have mated up the trans to the engine on his stand (now granted, its not from Harbor Freight) and it doesn't sit like that for long, but I see your point if your not working on it, just as easy to set it on some 2x6's, etc.

skutsch wrote: Why not just get one of these: Engine Stand Not as cheap as wood, but I would think a lot safer...

Because that attaches to the engine... where do you put the tranny? Besides, Im not sure I would put much faith in a Harbor Freight tool.

A square frame of 2x's is cheap, easy, and safe. Ive done it several times without issue. Just space the sides 20" apart for the mounts to sit on and youre golden. Make the whole thing long enough to clear the oil pan and transmission... somewhere around 4' should do it. I generally use 2x8's or 2x10's, but 2x6's would probably work too. Once the engine is sitting on the stand, put a few nails through the mount holes to keep it in place.

If you want to make it portable, put some wheel dollies under the front and back.

I had one shipped to me on a pallet with a 2x6 frame. Remove engine and tranny as one with the engine mounts attached and bolt it to the frame. engine alone is tippy as stated above.

Well, I guess I have a stringer job on my hands. I will post pics soon. In the mean time, I need to pull the engine and tranny. I have searched but not found anything specific about a frame that could be used to place the engine and tranny on while I complete this task. My main questions surrounds the weight (is 600# approximate enough for a 351W and velvet drive 1:1 ?)

Are 2X6s vertically strong enough or should I go 4X4? Any ideas, diagrams, pics would be much appreciated!

Thanks