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Doghouse Repair

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MI-nick View Drop Down
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    Posted: February-23-2011 at 10:15pm
thanks tim. it's at the upholsterer's shop now getting carpet sewn on.
As far as I can tell, I'm not quite sure...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-22-2011 at 12:35pm
The carpet is sewn to the vinyl from the factory.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MI-nick Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-22-2011 at 12:23pm
ok, i have 2 options from the upholsterer for adding carpet to the bottom of the doghouse. can anyone tell me how this would have been done originally on an '88??

Option 1 : sew carpet to bottom of vinyl and wrap/glue.

Option 2 : add a 1/4" ply ferring strip ~4" from the bottom. staple vinyl to the ply, then staple carpet to the ply (upside down), fold the carpet over itself and wrap/glue.

I think the end result will look the same...Option 1 seems more "correct" to me, but I'm no upholsterer...
As far as I can tell, I'm not quite sure...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Keeganino Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-08-2011 at 1:15pm
That looks great. It is a fun media to work with.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-08-2011 at 1:10pm
I was going to say- it looks a bit thicker than original in the repaired area. I would have overbuilt it the same way- nice job.

If you throw a little bit of black paint on the inside before putting it back together, it will be tough to tell there was ever any damage!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MI-nick Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-08-2011 at 1:06pm
as long as you guys are here it's no problem hahaha.

it's actually a little bit thicker in the "plug" area...over all WAY stronger than before.

thanks again for all the advice everyone!!
As far as I can tell, I'm not quite sure...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Morfoot Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-08-2011 at 11:45am
            


Piece of cake Nick.... now it wasn't that hard was it?

Did get enough plies on to at least match the original thickness?
"Morfoot; He can ski. He can wakeboard.He can cook chicken.He can create his own self-named beverage, & can also apparently fly. A man of many talents."72 Mustang "Kermit",88 SN Miss Scarlett, 99 SN "Sherman"
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MI-nick Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-08-2011 at 11:34am
i pulled the clamp boards off last night. one side came off easy, but one side left a good bit of the wax paper that I had to sand off.

right after taking the boards off


after trimming and sanding


i'm quite please with the way it came out. looks decent and is MUCH MORE RIGID than original. now i need to put the hinges back on and call the local upholstery guy.
As far as I can tell, I'm not quite sure...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Keeganino Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-07-2011 at 11:01pm
Looks good from here! It will be stronger than new.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MI-nick Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-07-2011 at 12:02pm
laid all the glass and clamped it down good yesterday...we'll see what it looks like tonight...

As far as I can tell, I'm not quite sure...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Morfoot Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-03-2011 at 11:39am
Looks good Nick! I'd say you're ready to go. Prepping the job properly will make the installation seem like a cake walk.
"Morfoot; He can ski. He can wakeboard.He can cook chicken.He can create his own self-named beverage, & can also apparently fly. A man of many talents."72 Mustang "Kermit",88 SN Miss Scarlett, 99 SN "Sherman"
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MI-nick Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-02-2011 at 8:47pm
i got lucky today and the office closed on account of the snow...which wasn't really that bad...i drove my wife to work in her scion tC no problems. anyway, i got to finish the prep work on the doghouse. still waiting on the resin. it was supposed to be here today, but I expect a delay.
i didn't save any sanding dust, but i did order some cabosil with my resin so i should be all set.

major grindage on the inside. i'm still not sure if it's gelcoat or paint...what is the way to tell for sure??



got all the cloth and mat pre-cut. i have 3 overlapping layers of cloth for the backside. 3 layers of mat and cloth for the "plugs". 3 overlapping layers over the plugs. 3 overlapping layers for each side of each crack. also wrapped my clamp boards in wax paper.
As far as I can tell, I'm not quite sure...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Morfoot Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-01-2011 at 8:32pm
I agree with Tim 100%. Looks good nick. Rounding the corners is EXACTLY what you needed to do.

Another little tip for you (which I should have thought of earlier). If you save a little bit of the fiberglass/epoxy dust from your sand job then you have a filler material to add to some epoxy (set aside a little bit in a dixie cup when you mix it up to lay your glass) for filling the stop drilled holes and the holes from your rivets. Just add a little at a time to make a thin paste. You'll want to fill the holes so you don't have air trapped in your repair.

Fill the holes with your paste AFTER you get your layers of glass on the backside so the paste won't fall out.

"Morfoot; He can ski. He can wakeboard.He can cook chicken.He can create his own self-named beverage, & can also apparently fly. A man of many talents."72 Mustang "Kermit",88 SN Miss Scarlett, 99 SN "Sherman"
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Keeganino Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-01-2011 at 5:14pm
Looks good! You are ready now.
"working on these old boats may not be cost effective but as it shows its what it brings into your life that matters" -Roger

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-01-2011 at 11:55am
Is it paint or gelcoat? I suspect the latter.

Either way, yes- grind it off anywhere you want to lay new glass down (probably 2-3" all around). You want the new glass to stick to the old glass- not gel or paint.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MI-nick Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-01-2011 at 11:50am
well instead of working on this last weekend I spend all my time playing hockey on the frozen lake. got back on it last night though.
how does all this look??

i stop drilled the cracks in the corners, cleaned up the glue with acetone and sanded a bit with 60 grit. the other holes are from drilling out rivets that held on a rubber trim piece on the inside (see above photos) and staples.


I taper sanded around the big chunks, cleaned up the glue with acetone and sanded with 60 grit.
1/2" - 1" taper all around

bad picture of the LH side.


look ok??


next question. the inside of the doghouse is painted black...do I need to sand away all the paint??
As far as I can tell, I'm not quite sure...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Keeganino Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-29-2011 at 2:36pm
Another thing nobody has mentioned is to prep the surfaces with acetone so that they are really clean before applying the resin.
"working on these old boats may not be cost effective but as it shows its what it brings into your life that matters" -Roger

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MI-nick Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-29-2011 at 12:00pm
ok, I think i've got it. i got the glass in the mail from keegan, but still waiting on my resin so I'll take care of all the prep work today.
As far as I can tell, I'm not quite sure...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote lewy2001 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-29-2011 at 2:27am
Nick I did the same repair on my 89SN. I added a piece of 1/4" ply right across the back of the engine cover and then applied 3-4 layers of cloth over that. I did this after repairing the cracks it spreads the load over a much larger area. Like Hollywood said if you leave the engine cover up it really pulls on the hinges and the engine cover is not thick enough to handle these loads.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Morfoot Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-28-2011 at 10:26pm
Nick, no problem tried hard to keep it simple without writing a novel.

1) Looked like the crack was already stop drilled from the picture maybe it wasn't. I'd use a 3/16ths drill bit

2)Yes, the backside would be the inside of the doghouse. I would imagine it would be easier to taper sand the edges on the outside of the cover. Yes apply cloth and resin.

3) Yes! you want the stress of the repair spanning the width of your repair. If all you did was basically "plug" the hole, you would tear it out as soon as you reattached the hinge. By adding the extra plies and extending the repair about 6 inches on either side of the damage your REALLY gonna have to force the cover hard to snap it off.

4) From what I can tell in your picture NO! You don't need to grind out the crack. Just stop drill it from growing any further and put 3-4 layers of glass on each side,(inside doghouse and outside) again overlapping each ply about 1/2 to an inch on either side of the crack.

Use a 1" brush to apply your resin to the doghouse first then apply your first layer of cloth. Brush resin on top of your cloth and make sure the cloth soaks it all up. You can help the cloth absorb the resin by using a hairdryer to heat up both and the cloth will absorb it like a sponge. **WARNING** don't get it to hot or you will "kick off" the resin and it will harden before you get the rest of your layers down.

To ensure complete resin to cloth penetration you can use a hairdryer/heat gun and go over the FINISHED repair lightly to "flow" the resin into the repair before you clamp your backing plates on.



"Morfoot; He can ski. He can wakeboard.He can cook chicken.He can create his own self-named beverage, & can also apparently fly. A man of many talents."72 Mustang "Kermit",88 SN Miss Scarlett, 99 SN "Sherman"
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MI-nick Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-28-2011 at 7:28pm
tim,
thanks a lot for the step by step...of course I have a few questions.

1) "For the crack you I'd use a bigger bit to stop drill it. I think what you have is too small."
are you saying the crack is small enough that I don't need to stop drill it??

2) regarding your #3, is "BACKSIDE" the inside or outside of the doghouse?? maybe doesn't matter?? also, this step should be cloth plus resin, right?

3) regarding your #5, 3-5 layers after the "plug"??

4) do i need to grind out the corner cracks at all??

thanks again.
As far as I can tell, I'm not quite sure...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Keeganino Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-28-2011 at 4:56pm
Great step by step Tim. I was having a hard time putting it all into words.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Keeganino Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-28-2011 at 4:52pm
Nick thanks for the beer bonus! I used it to buy a correct craft fan shirt off the site.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hollywood Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-28-2011 at 3:24pm
Yes those are original hinges for an 88 and that's what happens to them when you leave the box open without the back seat in. The original interior should have had carpet around the bottom as well, whoever redid it left that out.

Nice picture.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Morfoot Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-28-2011 at 2:17pm
Nick, I can't believe I missed this one. I had to do the exact thing a few years ago on my 88 and work with this stuff daily

For the crack you I'd use a bigger bit to stop drill it. I think what you have is too small. Tim's suggestion on material is good and Keegan is correct on repair.
I would taper sand the edges about a 1/2 to an inch of the part that has broken off so that the new glass will have a smooth transitional surface to adhere too. To make a really make a strong repair for this application compression is key.

1. Get your cloth cut and ready to go before you start as you don't want to cut as you go cause the resin will set up before you finish.

2. Use 2 pieces of wood or aluminum sheet ( a little wider than your repair) to use as a backing plate wrapped in wax paper. ( this will prevent them from becoming part of the repair.

3. When your ready to go lay several long pieces of cloth on the BACKSIDE of the taper sand making each one a little longer than the prior.

4. On the side of the taper sand start appling your cloth (the size and width of the removed damage) and resin one layer at a time. Build this up until your close to the original thickness of the parent material. You are in a sense using layers of cloth to create a plug. Once you think you are at the proper thickness throw in a couple extra plies to be sure.

5. Now finish the repair by appling your cloth that extends beyond the original damage. I would use about 3-5 layers making sure each additional layer overlaps the prior one about an inch on both ends.

6. Once your done laying up the glass then apply your backing plates to both sides of the repair and clamp the crap out of it. Not so tight that you squeeze all the resin out of your repair but you want do want compression as it ands strength to the repair and will force out ANY air that is trapped in the resin. Air in your repair isn't good as it weakens the bond of plies.

7. Once the resin cures you'll have a nice smooth surface and very minimal sanding if any at all.


:For the cracks on the corner I would just lay up 3-4 layers of cloth on both sides of the dog house. Use a hair dryer or (heat gun if you have one) to heat up the cracked area and dab a little resin onto the crack. Heating up the repair area will cause the resin to flow into the crack and any "dry" fibers will wick it up. Lay your glass over the crack the same as above extending each one longer than the prior.

Make sure that before you start any fiberglass repair that the surface is free of any paint, glue, oil, or rubber. Wipe down the entire repair area with Alcohol or Acetone before you start. You want a clean surface so the resin will bond to it.

Nick if you got any questions or anyone else for that matter. Give me a hollar.770-316-6963. I'll help where I can.

Good luck and keep us posted.
"Morfoot; He can ski. He can wakeboard.He can cook chicken.He can create his own self-named beverage, & can also apparently fly. A man of many talents."72 Mustang "Kermit",88 SN Miss Scarlett, 99 SN "Sherman"
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Keeganino Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-25-2011 at 2:49pm
The large voids are less work and you are right about putting down a piece of glass on one side. Let it cure and then build up from the other side. Make sure to spread the glass out past the void so that it is stronger than original. Use Tim's advice on the layup. Alternate materials for each layer

The cracks that are flush with each other need to be ground down on both sides until you have a void and a nice fade back up to original height so you have a good place to bond to and spread the load.

If you were going to add wood you would need to bed it in thickened epoxy and then glass over it after you fix all the cracks. Double check your clearance if you decide to do that. You would want to cpes it, and make sure you dont use treated lumber as the resin will not bond to it correctly.

Once you see how the stuff works it is pretty easy to use. You can always build up too much and grind away the excess to get the shape right.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MI-nick Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-25-2011 at 11:46am
thanks for all the input guys. here are a few more photos of what i'm workin' with.

corner crack...i'll fix this one at the same time.


this one turned out to be more than a crack. for repair should I put a layer of glass on the outside and then build up layers on the inside after that cures?? sorry, I have no fiber glass experience.


big chunk missing on the other side...same procedure as above??


adding a 1/4" ply reinforcement seems like a good idea to me. after I fill in the holes/cracks do I just "glue" the ply to the inside with expoxy resin and then add a layer of cloth over that?? or, would it be better to add the ply on the inside and then build up layers on the outside?? again, no fiberglass experience here.

keegan, i'll send you an email about your cloth and mat.

thanks again guys!!
As far as I can tell, I'm not quite sure...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Kristof Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-25-2011 at 8:05am
Originally posted by dwcar dwcar wrote:

that is a nice bribe photo. I am suprised J-Bear hasnt chimed in with advise.

Don,
I was wondering the same thing!

Originally posted by TRBenj TRBenj wrote:

3. I believe the carpet comes up ~6" on the sides of the motorbox in my '90. A late 2001 owner may want to confirm this.

Mine ('89 SN) is not more than 5"... (And yes, I used my converter, in case ya'll think I missed the cm/inch-thing! ).

BTW, my interior guy has made the same repair on my doghouse...


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dwcar Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-24-2011 at 10:45pm
Dont know much about questions 1 thru 5 but that is a nice bribe photo. I am suprised J-Bear hasnt chimed in with advise.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-24-2011 at 9:00pm
I stand corrected- never noticed that before. I guess some addional support in the hinge area makes sense.
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