Speedo Dash Riser?

So I ended up winning plexiglass at a cheap price. Got enough to make 2 in case I screwed up the first attempt but it went pretty well so hopefully this one will go in the boat next week. I was warned and it is true you have to cut this stuff real slow or else it melts back together behind the blade. Experienced that first hand but not a big deal.

TRBenj wrote: Wow, if Mcmaster didnt have it, it must not exist! I assume lexan = polycarbonate? Alternatively, can you paint it?

Yes, they didn't have the Lexan polycarbonate in black.
I wouldn't try painting it (lexan) ether even with one of the paints for plastics. The stuff is very solvent resistant so the solvent in the paint won't get a good "bite".

BTW, McMaster not having the Lexan in black was only the second time in all the years that I couldn't find something they didn't have. The other was a left hand 1/4" NPT pipe plug! It's a very specialized piece used only on refrigeration pressure regulators. It was when I was putting the CO2 tank for the air horn on the X55. BTW, the original tank still has CO2 in it after 2 years!!

TRBenj wrote: Keegan, if its not too late, you may want to consider ordering black lexan/plexi instead?

Tim,
When the one broke on my Tique, I went shopping for black polycarbonate. Not wanting to buy a 4x8 sheet, I ended up at good old McMaster but, they didn't have it!!! They only have it in translucent bronze and gray. I ended up getting black acrylic (plexi) from them!!!

BTW, polycarbonate (Lexan) will not flame polish.

Keegan, if its not too late, you may want to consider ordering black lexan/plexi instead? It was pretty common for Skiers to ship from the factory without a speedo, so it wouldnt surprise me if your mount wasnt original. Ive seen a few Skiers with the Ski Tique style mount- so you may want to consider emulating that for yours?

I've had good luck with a 10"-200 tooth blade on the table saw, and a drill press would make the hole cutting much easier. If you have to use hand tools, make sure to clamp the material well, and as mentioned, go slow.

Just go slow!   You can buy sabre saw blades for plastic. And go slow, if you get the blade hot the plastic will fuse back together behind the blade.
For hole saws, just click the drill trigger, let it set for a few seconds, click, let cool, click, let cool etc... Just go slow, and you'll be just fine.

I like Lexan it doesn't crack like Plexi.

Below is a picture of my Skier dash pre restoration showing the Airguide speedo up on the plexiglass riser.(If that is the correct term) I hope this one did not come from the factory because it is hand made and pretty rough. While usable, I opted not to put it back in until I can make/buy something better. Well that has been on the back burner because my stabilizer tube got water in it and split, but I just ordered a new one.

I ordered a small sheet of plexiglass and have a decent template to go from with the old one but have a few questions for the materials experts out there before I ruin the stuff.

In my limited experience this stuff is pretty hard to cut. Seems like a toothless metal cutting blade would work better than a wood cut blade? I watched a youtube where this guy says to use your hole saw with the drill in reverse so you grind your way through. Any ideas on that?

Cheers and Thanks!