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Added New Dash Ground to 93 with Pics

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kloeck6 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: Added New Dash Ground to 93 with Pics
    Posted: June-24-2022 at 4:18pm
To original poster Bri892001, Do you still have the pictures available? For some reason they don't show up for me. Thx!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kloeck6 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-24-2022 at 4:17pm
Do you still have the pictures available? For some reason they don't show up for me. Thx!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bri892001 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-25-2020 at 3:36pm
Originally posted by gcam4 gcam4 wrote:

With Memorial Day coming up on me sooner than I originally thought, I am going to have to forgo the bus bar for the near future.

@desertskier, how did you splice into the main power feeding the ignition breaker? Adding a ground is simple because I can do that with a ring terminal, but the power wire is a quick disconnect. I could splice into it with a butt splice, but don't really like that idea too much.


You can use a piggyback type connector:
http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/uploads/6518/Wiring04.JPG
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote gcam4 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-18-2020 at 12:07am
With Memorial Day coming up on me sooner than I originally thought, I am going to have to forgo the bus bar for the near future.

@desertskier, how did you splice into the main power feeding the ignition breaker? Adding a ground is simple because I can do that with a ring terminal, but the power wire is a quick disconnect. I could splice into it with a butt splice, but don't really like that idea too much.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote gcam4 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-16-2020 at 10:06am
Originally posted by desertskier desertskier wrote:


You probably don't want to power this from your ignition circuit. If it draws a lot of current it should have a dedicated feed with it's own fuse. Not through the ignition breaker and accessory switches. Typically any stereo equipment other than a head unit is powered directly from the battery with in-line fuses and dedicated grounds.


Yeah, i understand that. If i install the radio that I am speaking of with a onboard class D 40W X 4 amplifier, i will run a dedicated fused constant power to the battery. The switched power will be to the ignition.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote desertskier Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-11-2020 at 1:26am
Originally posted by gcam4 gcam4 wrote:


I do plan on installing a new receiver that has a class D amp in in it which calls for larger than normal power.


You probably don't want to power this from your ignition circuit. If it draws a lot of current it should have a dedicated feed with it's own fuse. Not through the ignition breaker and accessory switches. Typically any stereo equipment other than a head unit is powered directly from the battery with in-line fuses and dedicated grounds.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote gcam4 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-11-2020 at 1:03am
Pete, thanks for the encouragement.

@desertskier yeah, i don't think i will need to go up in size but I do plan on installing a new receiver that has a class D amp in in it which calls for larger than normal power. I will likely just pull an 8 and know that I will have no issues.

I haven't really had the opportunity to look at the wire routing. Does anyone know cable lengths on a 95? I think I'll do the battery wiring as well as the dash.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote desertskier Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-09-2020 at 3:03pm
If you are leaving the existing wires between the engine and the dash then you don't need to go that big. The new wires will be in parallel with the originals. 10 gauge is more than sufficient even if you disconnect the originals.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-09-2020 at 11:06am
Originally posted by gcam4 gcam4 wrote:

I'm resurrecting an old thread. I installed PP last year and now have low voltage at the dash. So, my thinking is new power and ground wire to the engine and then get rid of the daisy chains and install two buss bars at the dash. I will be using marine grade wire sized up 1 or 2 gauges for the mains, 6 or 8 gauge, along with adhesive lined heat shrink connections. I believe that is the best option?

Grant,
Sounds like the best plan. You're doing it correctly.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote gcam4 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-09-2020 at 10:42am
I'm resurrecting an old thread. I installed PP last year and now have low voltage at the dash. So, my thinking is new power and ground wire to the engine and then get rid of the daisy chains and install two buss bars at the dash. I will be using marine grade wire sized up 1 or 2 gauges for the mains, 6 or 8 gauge, along with adhesive lined heat shrink connections. I believe that is the best option?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Trader144 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-28-2016 at 12:56am
Comp[eted new ground wire. I retained a circular rope under the floor (like I do in the house) for the next wire run (positive)

Dash voltage up to 13!

Thank you for the instructions...I had to be towed back the other week so this was 1 of 10 things I changed. Great weekend afterwards.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bri892001 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-27-2016 at 11:20pm
Maybe I'll pick up some individuals of the sure-connect. I have to do a new bilge pump soon, so that would be the perfect application for those. I wasn't totally sure what gauge I'd be working with on that, but it looks like it's most likely 14 or 16, which would be the blue.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Airfooter Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-27-2016 at 9:33pm
Originally posted by Bri892001 Bri892001 wrote:

I had been buying my terminal ends sort of piece meal.

But, just to have them on hand, I just bought this box set, from McMaster, this item number:
70335K81

Is that what you guys are referencing? It's the fully insulated variety.


And another McMaster shopper! 70335K81 contains fully insulated connectors, only meaning no bare metal is left exposed. On the same catalog page there are the "heat-shrink quick-disconnect terminals" which have the heat shrink and are available in standard, fully insulated, and sure-connect. I don't see them available as a kit from McMaster, but they're what we're referring to. I personally ordered the sure-connect with solder in it just because I've never tried them and would like to.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bri892001 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-27-2016 at 3:13pm
I had been buying my terminal ends sort of piece meal.

But, just to have them on hand, I just bought this box set, from McMaster, this item number:
70335K81

Is that what you guys are referencing? It's the fully insulated variety.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-27-2016 at 7:36am
Adam,
It's always great to hear of another McMaster shopper! Thinking back, I've used them for over 40 years and have never been disappointed. Before semi retiring and moving up to northern Wisconsin, I was really spoiled in that from work, I was 10 minutes from their main headquarters/warehouse. Getting desperately needed items within one hour was sure convenient. There was only one time when they didn't have nor couldn't find a item. It was a left hand 1/4" pipe plug that's a refrigeration special part

It's also great to hear you're doing what I consider a proper job on the wiring. Regarding the feed to the ignition breaker, you don't really need the 8 gauge due to the load on it. 8 gauge to a buss and then smaller gauges from the buss to each individual load will do the job.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Airfooter Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-26-2016 at 11:59pm
Yep, I have tinned marine wire in 8, 10, and 14 gauge so that I'm fully prepared. I was going to run an 8 gauge + from the main breaker to the ignition breaker, but finding an actual 8 gauge female quick disconnect is challenging. It looks like the 10-12 gauge female disconnect might work with the 8 gauge wire, but if it don't I'm just going to run the 10 gauge +.   I'm purchasing the shrink connectors from McMaster since they have a nice selection. My bus bars have 1/4" main terminals and the rest are #8, s0 I'm going to run with those two sizes. In my mind I was thinking that the terminal on that 50 amp breaker was larger than 1/4", so that's why I posed the question. I also do not recall the thread size of the engine ground bolt. McMaster does have 8 gauge 5/16" and 3/8" heat shrink rings, so maybe since I'm slightly unprepared I better spend an extra $10 for a larger size to be safe. Thanks for your recommendations and for confirming the quick connect size!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote spiralhelix Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-26-2016 at 8:07pm
Pete beat me to the punch. I get anchor brand connectors. I second the adhesive lined heat shrink connectors.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-26-2016 at 8:04pm
Adam,
Get a box on #12 and 1/4" Stacons to match the wire size you are using. You should be good. I hope you are using marine grade wire and heat shrink adhesive lined Stacons. Yes, the quick connects are .250".


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Airfooter Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-26-2016 at 7:37pm
Hey guys,

Does anyone know the size of the terminal on the load side of the 50 amp breaker off the top of their head ('92 Excel)? Also, are the spade connections on the dash breakers 1/4"? My boat is a few hours away and I wanted to order some connectors for the upcoming weekend.

Thanks in advance!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bri892001 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-18-2016 at 7:55pm
I agree. I saw an improvement by adding just the ground, but didn't get the full benefit until I added a positive feed as well.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-18-2016 at 7:22pm
David,
I think it was mentioned previously but I will again. Besides getting a heavier ground up to the dash, do the same with the positive feed. Both it at the ground are known to be marginally sized.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Trader144 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-18-2016 at 6:56pm
Great. I will see if the multimeter has a reading by connecting the negative to this and the positive to the battery
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bri892001 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-18-2016 at 4:46pm
Definitely looks like it. Just try to confirm that those wires are actually grounds. Makes sense that they are, just want to double check.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Trader144 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-18-2016 at 1:45pm
Here is a picture of what I was asking about - is this a ground bus that I could connect my new ground wire to for a better dash ground?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bri892001 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-18-2016 at 10:43am
It sounds like you already have a bus bar from the factory, so you'd add your new ground directly to that, and clean up as many connections as you can reach.

Consider replacing some individual ground wires, and maybe adding a new one to the middle of the daisy chain of grounds connecting all the instruments.

Luckily, the wiring diagram for the 88 is available in the reference section under misc files, here:
http://www.correctcraftfan.com/downloads/1989_SN_Wiring_Diagram.pdf
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Trader144 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-18-2016 at 10:10am
Thank you, I have already put the boat back; I will try to get some.

Basically it is a black plastic bus that has black wires running into it.
The wires are black, and all of my breaker wires are red on both sides.

David
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bri892001 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-17-2016 at 4:54pm
Can you post a pic of what you're looking at?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Trader144 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-17-2016 at 4:50pm
Hi everyone

I am trying to do this on a 1988 Nautique 2001 without perfect pass.
Can anyone help me find the dash ground so I can connect the new ground wire from the engine block to the dash ground?


I have a bus bank that appears to connect to the breaker l.ights


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bri892001 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-02-2015 at 1:58am
Thanks Pete I think a few, but not all of mine were heat shrink adhesive lined, made by Anchor. I really just bought them because of the size of the ring as I wasn't really aware of the difference. The rest were just the generic Anchor brand sourced from West Marine.

At least it was a big improvement over stock. It's surprising the stock setup lasted as long as it did actually. A lot of instance of wires just twisted together and crimped into the same terminal end.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-01-2015 at 11:38pm
Sta-kon is T&B's (Thomas & Betts) trade name. I did a search!


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