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No Power To Dash

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lakedog55 View Drop Down
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    Posted: September-20-2011 at 2:44pm
I wish I had taken a picture of it but my 10 guage hot going was almost cut in half and all corroded not sure what kind of problems this would of caused.
Mike
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MI-nick View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MI-nick Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-19-2011 at 12:30pm
well I went up this weekend armed with a wiring diagram, my mulitmeter, and some spare parts I "borrowed" from the '88. started at the battery and worked my way to the dash. everything checked out so I hit the ignition breaker and turned the key...everything worked fine and continued to work fine the rest of the weekend. must be loose connection or bad ground under the dash...but, I won't go looking for trouble until it's out for the winter.
As far as I can tell, I'm not quite sure...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrCC Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-06-2011 at 4:12pm
But seriously,   Her BF tryed to install a new stereo, made a total mess and went off and left it with nothing working.

I had to replace every switch plus the ignition and several other wires.   And I did truly roll the hour
meter forward.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrCC Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-06-2011 at 4:03pm
Wow,   This is just way too spooky!

Your '88 looks exactly like her '89!

All I did was roll her hour meter forward 12 hrs. and everything came back on.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bri892001 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-06-2011 at 3:58pm
I agree. I'd also check the hot (coming from the engine 50amp breaker) side of the in dash ignition push-button breaker. Make sure you are actually getting voltage, do this by putting the other end of your test light either to you battery negative or a ground source under the dash.

If you're not getting juice, either your 50am breaker is bad as you suspected, or the wire is broken/shorting somewhere.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-06-2011 at 3:50pm
With the exception of the clock, the gauges work on 12v ignition power, not 12v battery power... so your thinking would be correct. Jumping them to the battery power would make them move.

If you had no power to the dash at all, I would bet good money that Steve is correct above... check all the connections to your battery cables.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MI-nick Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-06-2011 at 3:41pm
Originally posted by Bri892001 Bri892001 wrote:

Hmmm, now when your dash is totally dead, does that mean your blower and horn etc. won't work with the ignition breaker button pushed in?

Because, the hot goes from the 50amp breaker at the back of the motor, to the wiring harness, to the hot side of that ignition breaker/pushbutton. That will supply your blower, horn and bilge, (maybe nav lights) and the ignition switch.

Then, the ignition key switch powers everything else, gauges etc. If it's dead, dead, meaning no blower, nothing, then it's not the key switch.

The grounds are highly suspect on these boats as well. Disconnect, clean, and retighten everything you can.

Battery, engine block ground, dash ground at right rear of motor on the motor side, there's an engine mount ground and as much as you can get to under the dash pod.

You can't really buy parts ahead of time, sorry to say. Basically all you can do is get yourself a crimp terminal kit and re-do any that look suspect. A multimeter or at least a test light will be helpful as well.


yes, it was dead dead. no blower, acc, horn, gauges, etc. i checked the main 50A breaker and it seemed to be on unless you have to push it like a gorilla to reset it. one thing I did do is take one of the spade connectors off the back of the 20A ignition breaker switch and touch it to the other side spade connector. my thinking was that if the ignition breaker was bad, touching the two wires should send power to the gauges. since nothing happened, it seems there was no power to that breaker switch...is my thinking correct here?? if it is, then either the 50A breaker was tripped or bad...or a bad ground somewhere??
As far as I can tell, I'm not quite sure...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kapla Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-06-2011 at 3:04pm
I used to have a short somewhere (bilge pump or blower) and would make the 50 amp breaker in the back of the engine trip and cut all power...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bri892001 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-06-2011 at 2:30pm
Hmmm, now when your dash is totally dead, does that mean your blower and horn etc. won't work with the ignition breaker button pushed in?

Because, the hot goes from the 50amp breaker at the back of the motor, to the wiring harness, to the hot side of that ignition breaker/pushbutton. That will supply your blower, horn and bilge, (maybe nav lights) and the ignition switch.

Then, the ignition key switch powers everything else, gauges etc. If it's dead, dead, meaning no blower, nothing, then it's not the key switch.

The grounds are highly suspect on these boats as well. Disconnect, clean, and retighten everything you can.

Battery, engine block ground, dash ground at right rear of motor on the motor side, there's an engine mount ground and as much as you can get to under the dash pod.

You can't really buy parts ahead of time, sorry to say. Basically all you can do is get yourself a crimp terminal kit and re-do any that look suspect. A multimeter or at least a test light will be helpful as well.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 62 wood Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-06-2011 at 12:59pm
Sounds like a bad ground or connection somewhere. I've seen where a battery cable terminal looked good from outside, but had corrosion in the crimped fitting. Take a 12 volt test light for sure..

We were in Ludington over the weekend and your right ... weather kinda sucked...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MI-nick Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-06-2011 at 9:07am
alan,
what was the problem with your neighbor's '89?
As far as I can tell, I'm not quite sure...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Keeganino Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-06-2011 at 1:48am
That is kinda creepy! I know that is no help but what a weird story!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrCC Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-06-2011 at 1:42am
Exact same thing happened to a neighbors '89 SN !!!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MI-nick Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-05-2011 at 11:43pm
wel my '93 just rolled 666 hours and left me dead on the water . went out this morning to wakeboard in the 50 degree weather and wind up in northern MI...after riding for a bit, emptying the fat sacs, and sitting in a wind protected cove for a bit...noting happened. no power to the dash gauges, won't start, nothing. fortunately it was 50 and misting...and I didn't have a paddle since this boat has never given me one single problem. we drifted for a bit and then i decided to swim it to shore. after a few minutes a friend of mine on lake came cruising by and towed me in.
since this boat is about 4.5 hours away now and I didn't have the proper tools to diagnose i need to have replacement parts (if needed) the next time I go up.
it should be noted that this same thing almost happened yesterday morning too. i turned the key, hit the ignition switch, the gauges came on, i hit the blower switch, it came on momentarily, and then everything died. i took off the panels to check the connections on the key switch and the breaker switches...everything looked fine. put the panels back on and everything was working again somehow.
today i couldn't check much due to my lack of tools. the main breaker was on, all the connections looked good...i bridged the spade connectors on the back of the ignition breaker switch with the key in the run position and nothing happened...that's about all I did.
my guess is the key switch is bad. i'll bring the proper tools and my multi meter up next time to do a proper diagnosis...but, are there any other parts I should have ready?? is it just the demon 666 hours messing with me??
As far as I can tell, I'm not quite sure...
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