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00 Sport - surging/starting questions

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lewy2001 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote lewy2001 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: 00 Sport - surging/starting questions
    Posted: March-03-2012 at 10:40am
Mike have you cleaned your idle speed solenoid bypass assembly? This may help with your surging and cold start problems.

I have been trouble shooting a very intermittent warm start problem on my GT40 and decided to purchase a Equus 3145 Ford Digital Code Reader to help. It come with a good manual and a better fault code description than the GT40 manual. It was only $24.99 from Amazon.

GT40 Fault Code reader

It found no stored codes and all tests ran fine. I then found in the manual that the ECA does NOT store any fault codes for the ISC-BPA.

Just give it a clean with some carby cleaner and also the passages in the inlet manifold. There is a wire mesh type filter in the passage behind the butterfly that was quite dirty in mine.
If you're going through hell, keep going

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-22-2012 at 3:41pm
Make sure you use one of these on the battery and cable terminals.



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mdvalant View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mdvalant Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-22-2012 at 3:29pm
An oil filter isn't an oil filter?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bri892001 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-22-2012 at 3:28pm
Originally posted by Hollywood Hollywood wrote:

a battey is not a battery??????????????

Shhhhhh. You're gonna wake up Pete Brainard
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mdvalant Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-22-2012 at 3:22pm
Sorry no pics of the battery. It's in my garage cabinet with like 7 others. (jet skis, jon boat, mowers) I could run a prius with them all I think.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hollywood Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-22-2012 at 3:21pm
a battey is not a battery??????????????
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bri892001 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-22-2012 at 3:19pm
Well, it should be a Starting Battery with the right amount cold cranking amps.

Pics?

Check out this thread:
http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=20917&title=what-size-type-battery-for-a-95-sn
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mdvalant Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-22-2012 at 3:10pm
How bout a chicken crap little battery that came with the boat? Not sure the brand/size or anything but it just seems like one I'd have in my lawnmower. (minor exaggeration) Would this cause for concern?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote M3Fan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-22-2012 at 3:07pm
I never replaced the keypad, BTW. Both keypads on my boat are 12 years old and still working flawlessly.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mdvalant Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-22-2012 at 3:04pm
Hense the dumbing it down, thanks HW :)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hollywood Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-22-2012 at 3:03pm
I already gave you the shortcut. click click click means the solenoid is trying to close but doesn't have enough power to do so. The power comes from the battery, trace everything back to the battery from the solenoid.

Tim, don't confuse the issue defining power or explaining how the solenoid actually works.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bri892001 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-22-2012 at 2:59pm
Yeah, if you're getting the click, the keypad is most likely doing it's job, sending power to the solenoid... or one of them.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mdvalant Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-22-2012 at 2:56pm
I know that sounded stupid, but it seemed right to me haha. What I was trying to say is that, if this little click noise I hear can be created by the keypad, then I bet the keypad is our problem. Does that make more sense? It works for all other tasks though, this is why I didn't think that was the cause.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hollywood Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-22-2012 at 2:55pm
Originally posted by mdvalant mdvalant wrote:

Keypad could be an issue if it can cause this issue.


Now we got something...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mdvalant Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-22-2012 at 2:38pm
Keypad could be an issue if it can cause this issue. If you guys remember seeing my first post on this boat it was related to our whole dash being soaked and unresponsive from it's journey to IA until it dried up...maybe it didn't like that all that much?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bri892001 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-22-2012 at 2:35pm
Joel, you replaced the key pad ignition thing on your boat at some point too. Would this be related? Or would you not even get the click when trying to start?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mdvalant Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-22-2012 at 2:25pm
FOR SALE: 2000 sport nautique >100 hrs

like new
black/tan
starts almost every time

kidding
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bri892001 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-22-2012 at 2:24pm
Originally posted by M3Fan M3Fan wrote:


...
One thing to note is that post-1994 or so all 351 starters, including the GT40 starters, have 100% hot power to them at all times. The classic old remote relay sends a low-amperage signal to ANOTHER relay in the starter. So it's doing the same thing as it used to but not sending the high-amp juice to the starter.


Interesting. Well, this should keep Mike from getting bored during his starting system diagnosis anyway. LOL.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote M3Fan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-22-2012 at 1:51pm
HW is right on with this. Battery cables, battery, and connections. CLASSIC low-voltage/bad connections symptoms. Same exact thing left me and HW stranded years ago with my 2000. In my case it was corrosion between the clamp itself and the cable itself, as well as massive internal corrosion in the cables. I replaced the solenoid due to similar circumstances shortly after and have been turnkey since.

For the non-GT40 people:

YES, this motor does have the old/classic remote start relay just like the older boats do, and YES it does go bad. It's positioned upside-down under the engine computer and it's a royal PITA to change as I went through this same thing.

One thing to note is that post-1994 or so all 351 starters, including the GT40 starters, have 100% hot power to them at all times. The classic old remote relay sends a low-amperage signal to ANOTHER relay in the starter. So it's doing the same thing as it used to but not sending the high-amp juice to the starter.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hollywood Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-22-2012 at 1:27pm
The solenoids do wear out but you can always "hot wire" it by tapping a wrench or screwdriver over the 2 big posts. Usually though the clicking sound is the solenoid trying to do it's job but doesn't have enough juice from the battery. This means a bad battery or a bad connection between the 2, not a bad solenoid. A bad solenoid is usually silent.

Mike, a good start is removing all suspect connections, brushing them clean and applying some dielectric grease upon reinstallation. I know you've had problems before up by the keypad so might as well do everything in the starting system. Do not just look at them and report back "connections look good". I can't tell you how many times this happens!

You've also got 12 year old battery cables that are likely internally corroding...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bri892001 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-22-2012 at 1:24pm
Cool, hope it works out.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mdvalant Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-22-2012 at 1:19pm
Hey Thanks Brian! I'm a moron with this GT40, not much better with anything else so any dumbing down you guys do is much appreciated. I will add these things to the list of stuff to check when spring time comes. Getting closer every day.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bri892001 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-22-2012 at 1:18pm
This page shows the old school (I call them "hump") starters vs. the new solenoid pigi back (more similar to automotive) starters:
http://www.nautiqueparts.com/startersandsolenoids.aspx
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bri892001 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-22-2012 at 1:16pm
I already knew you had the GT-40 engine    

Poke around towards the back of your motor, and see if you have one of these. It may be underneath a black plastic cover. Completely removing your motorbox will probably make working back there a lot easier. Another tip is if your actual starter just has the hump, and not the solonoid (looks like a mini starter) pigi backed onto it:
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mdvalant Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-22-2012 at 1:10pm
By telling you it's the GT-40 310hp will that help? lol
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bri892001 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-22-2012 at 1:09pm
Mike, this still has the remote solenoid, right? Like the older Fords?

I'd check that the solenoid is sending power to the starter, before you replace that starter.

Solenoid is way cheaper to replace and possibly more likely. But, either way, when you get that click, make sure your heavy red wire going to the starter is getting energized.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mdvalant Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-22-2012 at 1:02pm
Hey all,

We are going to tackle this starter click this spring. Sometimes it takes quite a bit of button pushes to get it to turn over. Weak battery connection? Starter? Feels like a starter issue, same thing if one were to go bad in my truck. I also heard somewhere that bad connection on the battery cables can cause the same issue? Any one have any thoughts?

I will most likely check a few things out before we purchase a new starter.

-Mike
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kapla Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-12-2011 at 5:02pm
gremlins...

1 and 2 are realted to bad conections..I had them and eventually they come and go...

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mdvalant Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-12-2011 at 4:57pm
Hey all,

All year we have been noticing these things, hoping they are mostly minor.

1 - Press start and hear clicking noise from motor box (sounds like starter) This doesn't happen every time, and usually only happens on the first start of the day. (starter, bat cables, keypad?)

2 - sometimes after backing up hard and putting it back into neutral the motor will surge and sometimes even die. (fuel relay, idle air control valve, MAP sensor?)

3 - twice we have popped the main ignition breaker in the breaker panel. (not a clue)

Anybody else ever run into these problems?

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