help identifying correct craft

too funny Peter..........Chummin maybe?

The proper place to attach two tubes is the tow point on the back.....of a Bayliner!

boat dr wrote: Why spend more on a preservation than the boat is worth, then leave it on the trailer to be shown off like a "trophy wife".

Hummmmmmm, I need to get one of those "Tropy wife's" Are they good with working on wood!

ultrarunner wrote: JJ, if you haven't done so already, I'd canvass that barn really good, just to be sure you're not leaving any parts behind. Having grabbed a few barn-finds myself over the years...mostly cars and planes, I have usually found a few pieces sitting on the floor, in the rafters, ect...that belonged to my find. Good luck with the resto, and we all look forward to following your progress. Mark

This is my barn that i put it in so i havent moved any parts. I looked at the guys house i got it from but i didnt see any either. I have a ski pylon on ebay but never the clam vents or correct craft name plate. Any ideas were i could get correct craft parts?

I believe the "rope tie up" is the lifting ring, it is designed for vertical loads only (Lifting)and is not a good tow point, keep an eye out for the right vintage pylon and add it during your restore. I cant wait to see what Pete has to say about two tubes behind that boat.

jjcorrectcraftfan wrote: How long can you leave these boats in the water. We go up to a camp in Michigan for a week. The boat would be in the water for 6 days. Can you leave them in the water that long or not.

6 days would be the max. The topside paint used on the bottom should be fine even though it's not a "below the waterline paint" I suggest Pettit Easypoxy.
JJ[/QUOTE]

jjcorrectcraftfan wrote: Also did these boats have swim platforms? 8122pbrainard wrote:   &     JJ, Spend some time exploring the site. The reference section as well as the diaries are wonderful tools. In the ref section, you'll find catalogs and price sheets that will list the details.

Pete, cut the guy a little slack!   He will learn one way or the other, the job he is about to undertake will educate him more than any reading he can do about this "simple task".I can only speak for my "education into wooden boats" .I too have a small amount of knowledge since my purchase and "resto" of 4 wood CC's. I chose to use info from a number of sources, both novice and old timers,to do the best job I could.The bottom line of all this "resore back better than the factory" to me is a poison pill.Why have a boat that you are afraid to use?Why spend more on a preservation than the boat is worth, then leave it on the trailer to be shown off like a "trophy wife". Allow him to make the same mistakes the rest of us have made, some times an education can be very expensive, Almost as much as following blindly with misinformation that came from the "PRO's"....Let him ask the questions.............

Thanks for the help so far. Im sure ill need much more. I hope to start working on the boat in 2 weeks and be done by July of 2012. I think the hull is still in good shape so i hopefully wont have to pull that big v8 out.

I was looking just behind the front seat and there is no hole for a ski pole. Did all of these come with ski poles or not. Will this be something i have to build in when i tear it apart?

Greetings JJ, Glad to see another going through the trials and tribulations of rebuilding, refurbishing and or refinishing another old Correct Craft. My son and I started working on a 1950 Jr Utility just this summer. Will be back at it as soon as I can pacify the most important family member with the installation of a new kitchen. You will find my thread a few pages back if interested. A word of caution, bring your thick skin to this meeting place where you will find all the information to complete your project. The members are straight forward and most often right, even if they are the bearers of bad news. As soon as you adjust your thinking to the reality that you will be removing the hull plywood, repairing any keel, stem or frame rot and reinstalling the skin with the 5200 system, you will be able to go with the flow in an orderly fashion. Resist the temptation to do any less.

Best wishes,

Jack

JJ, If you could fill out your profile with at least a first name, we tend prefer them to screen names. This site and especially Pete are great sources for your project ahead. Make sure you ask first, Listen to the good advice, and make a good plan before you proceed. It will save you time, money and headaches.

jjcorrectcraftfan wrote: the transom below the water is fine. Its the transom above water that needs repaired.

You need to investigate deeper. You are only looking at the surface and not the inside frames. Trust me, you have problems! The popped filler over the tops of the screws is a great indicator.

You evidently do not have any woodworking boat building experiencing! We are here to help you since you will need it!

the transom below the water is fine. Its the transom above water that needs repaired.

Riley wrote: They are for vents. There should be 2 aluminum tubes that go from the holes in the deck to a holes in the floor board. You should have 4 chrome vents. Two for those holes and two for the holes in the side near the transom. It looks better than the one from the diaries, which we bought in '09.

Not necessarily Bruce - CC didn't always use the tubes. Some models simply had a panel covering the space between the frames creating the "channel" down to the bilge.

They are for vents. There should be 2 aluminum tubes that go from the holes in the deck to a holes in the floor board. You should have 4 chrome vents. Two for those holes and two for the holes in the side near the transom. It looks better than the one from the diaries, which we bought in '09.