Drain plugs/anitfreeze

I just pull the lower water hose off the oil cooler. I clean out the water strainer. I pull the RWP & store it in the basement. Pour the AF into the hose leading to the thermostat housing (after draining all 5 plugs). Pretty straight forward.

normally the cooler is always vertical and drains, I rarely pull the plug because the AF, will push the remnants of the water through it, but, thats me, today i will probably do 4 to 5 more, 2 block drains, 2 manifold drains, 2 gallons AF. again the more you do on the engine the less chance you take. if you do mess with the cooler be sure to use 2 wrenches so you dont gamage the cooler

obsessed, is he tranny oil cooler just water in there or tranny fluid?

After fighting a stuck plug in my old motor, I use antisieze each fall on all the plugs before I put them back in, seems to make for easy removal.

Yes, it is important to remove those plugs, otherise you would have to do the pump though method. I use a breaker bar, you can put a pipe on it for extra torque. You may have to remove the manifold to heat the plugs with a torch if they are badly corroded.    In that case, the pump through method might be justified.

I used car antifreeze 50/50 - it came out of my truck, still is good AF!

However, I will have to capture it in the spring. Most guys are using RV (pink) AF. Don't worry about the corrosion protection - you don't have any corrosion protection all summer long with plain water in it!

Don't forget about the tranny oil cooler, stariner, & RWP, they can freeze too.

Don, a 1/2 inch Ratchet is what I use. Gives a good snug fit and you
get some leverage with the handle. They can be in pretty tight. A
1/2 inch extention will give you some space if your ratchet head it
too large to fit in the available space.

The plug on the manifold is on the back, big looking brass bolt. I think that's it in the pic above. It's on the vertical end. I use NAPA antifreeze, it's $9 a gallon, and the 50/50 stuff at wallyword is $12, go figure.

After you drain, put all the plugs in except the one at the back on the passenger side. Take the hose off the raw water pump, hold it up high and pour antifreeze until you see it come out the back plug hole, then install the plug. On my GT40, I also used a bucket and some antifreeze and attached it to the hose off the strainer and let it pull some through. I've never used the pink stuff. There's no corrosion protection in it. I read the fine print on the two brands a Walmart. One said it was not to be used in engine blocks. I think it was the Prestone brand and it had "ethyl something" that the other brand didn't.

Yes, I agree, probe first and then let it drain. It'st sort of like smell first and then go after it!

one misconception on the block drain plugs is, you will drain one side and then go to drain the other side and at times nothing will come out and then it is assumed the block is drained, alot of times you will get corrosion near the drains and it will block any water from coming out. So it is very important to probe the drain and clear the blockage to let the water out.

I had a question on the drain plug location. I have the GT 40 v 8 95 SN. Are they the T bolts on the side with plumber type tape on the threads. It appears there are 1 on the driver side of the motor and 2 on the other.
Also hoses, which one need to be released to get all the water out of the engine? Lastly, anti freeze goes in the hose once all the plugs and hoses are back in right? How much,.... and will any RV pink type work?