How to Run your Boat out of Water, Bucket Method

snipe wrote: Can't wait for spring, Wisconsin winters are toooo long.

Just a couple more months and Laurel Lake will be open again Egon!

Hope I'm not stepping on any toes........
I have been using the "Fake-A-Lake" method for four years now without a problem. All the methods mentioned seem to do the job, but I don't have to disconnect anything. I simply put a small board under the boat (because of gravel) and shove the "plunger" under the intake almost to the point to where it should collapse. I can jump in and out of the boat and it will stay there for me. Water exits the exhaust just as it should. As far as knowing if the impeller in the raw water pump is showing signs of wear, I remove it after I winterize the engine anyway. This way I can visually inspect it. My two cents worth.
Can't wait for spring, Wisconsin winters are toooo long.

The only problem i see with the water hose method is there is a chance the pressure from the water supply would "mask" a borderline impeller .
While the bucket method is a possitive indicater of fluid flow thru the cooling sysmem, a little more trouble but, to me, well worth the added effort.   Boat dr

8122pbrainard wrote: Nice but I still like Tim's method better since you don't need to remove the hose every time you need to run it off the garden hose.

00cls1camaross wrote: I didn't want to put a T there with a back flow preventer because I thought it could potentially create a positive pressure on system that (I would imagine) generally runs at a negative pressure. The guys at Skidim advised me to not do the method you are talking about. I see the convenience of the system you all are talking about, but pulling those hose off takes all of 2 seconds and ensures the motor is only taking whatever water it needs, even when it is off.

What method did Skidim say not to use?

Tim's simple T method does not pressurize the suction side of the RWP since it does not have any valving nor check valve.

People have had problems with the Flush Pro - they break!

8122pbrainard wrote: Nice but I still like Tim's method better since you don't need to remove the hose every time you need to run it off the garden hose.

on the other hand... There is something to be said for the bucket method since it will truly show how much water is being drawn up by the cooling system.

That being said, I installed a Flush-pro and later added a shut-off valve and a quick-connect fitting. It works great but I still can't really tell how much water is being sucked up.

+1 on 00cls1camaross (wish I knew his real name...) contribution to the site. It would be a good sticky. This is the kind of stuff that folks come to CCfan looking for when they are newbie inboard owners.

+1 on Tim's design. Best $12 I have spent on the boat.

Nice write up.

Bucket Method

Here is how it works. First, there is an intake hose that sucks water from the lake. If you disconnect it at the water filter, you can attach a garden hose to it. Second, you can put that garden hose into a bucket or an ice chest that is full of water. It now sucks up water from the bucket. Then your replenish that bucket that is full of water with a hose coming from your house.

Here are the parts you need to make it work:
Home Depot
048643071766: 1" x 3/4" Nylon Barb, $2.97
(Fitting on the Left)

Home Depot
046878533639: 3/4" x FHT Swivel PVC Fitting, $1.57
(Fitting on the Right)

Walmart
WaterWorks: 7 ft Leader Hose ~$5.00

Here is a picture of the parts



Here is a picture of the hose you disconnect from your water filter


Here is a picture of how much water should be coming out at idle



Somethings to note:
-Watch the water level in your bucket because you could potentially run the cooling system dry or over flow the bucket into your boat.

-Keep a close eye on engine temps

-You just saved a lot of money by visiting CCF.

I hope this is helpful. I know a write up like this would have been helpful to me when I first did it.

-00cls1camaross