Ford Explorer Owners

Eric, I ran a very temporary jumper (jumper cable with a big upholstery pin in its jaws) from the negative battery to the ground wire in the back of the switch connector, and the widows went up and down. Wooo Hoooo! Now I just need to find time to pull and solder in a permanent one. Thanks for your help.

you may have to pull a ground because of the door hinges, i ran into a bad ground on a fuel pump a couple months back, replaced the pump (it was due anyways on the Chevy) but it was a ground
troubleshoot it with a jumper ground before you pull the ground

Investigating showed the tailgate lock and latch were working fine. Something had spilled on the tailgate weather strip and "glued" it shut. A little motivating force took care of it. Looked up the window circuit online and found the fuse, but it was good. I will have to take apart the door and get out the meter.

Thanks Eric, the ABS will have to be somebody else, Would the window switch take out the whole system? Nothing works from any door.

She is home, Runs like a top but I have a few issues to sort out. The power window circuit is out But I can not find the power windows listed under any of the 96 fuses and relays. The tailgate also will not open electronically or manually. I also have an ABS light on.



I was able to pick up a two inch reciever that mounts below the factory 1 1/4 for $25 on craigs list.

Picking it up today, 210 hp, 6 cyl, 4wd from a VIN search. Should do the trick but I will miss having a pick up.

Dave,
All I can add to the equation here is we, stamp all of the frame components for the Explorer as well as the cross members for the 1/2, 3/4 and 1 ton Ford chassis. Man, they are real HD!!! Our 1000 ton press is really taking the "tire carrier" to the limit (lots of deep forming) The difference between the different ton chassis is the gauge thickness of the metal. The cross members on the 1 ton is close to .250" !!

Yeah, they really are good vehicles for the intended job.
I did not mean to say many things go wrong, because you could get far worse. Sometimes I think people do not understand they are 4x4 or AWD, and that simply means there are more things to go wrong, but as a whole I would recommend one anytime.

Some parts guys here will give the input on premium rotors, I just don't recall that option. I think they warped sometimes just because the soccer moms drove them like a Taurus and not a heavy 4x4.

I have an account at two parts stores, and can do rotors and pads in under an hour so I have always just replaced them as needed. Turn them, and expect them to warp quickly.

I guess I didn't realize the dakota got that kind of mileage. 22 in the prime for the explorer sounds about right, but I think you will actually see around 15-16ish depending on your driving style.

Got to be better than the Dakota. There I said it.   

the only real problems ive seen are the band will snap in the trans, far and few in between though, and i belive it holds the 2nd gear drum

I have owned several and worked on many, here is what I can tell you.

Look at the suspension, specifically the front end. They tend to eat ball joints. They are not too expensive on that year, but if you are paying the labor, it can be expensive.
And like the other post lately, front end bearings and sway bar links. They are cheap parts to fix so don't let that scare you.

Most of them I saw, warped rotors a few miles down the road, especially if they towed much. I always put mid grade pads on to help this, stay away from the ceramics.

Remember about the tires too, most of them have to have the same tire brand, size and tread depth on all four tires.

It probably won't compete against your dakota for gas mileage, all mine were pigs at 14-17 if I remember right.

And when it starts to not shift right, it probably is the 1-2nd shift solenoid. Mine never went but I saw many that did.

I personally think they are quite good as far as maintenance goes if it was treated right. If it is a 4.6 I see them at 265K regularly.

Hope that helps.