Poor Man's GT40 Diagnosis

Great job figuring out your problem!

I believe the problem is solved! Installed an O ring on the “new”NSS- which I had never had on there! Old switch in fact did have a (very compressed) O ring. Probably the “old” NSS was never bad to start with.

Tightened the throttle cable at the transmission location and had several repeat starts in a row! I think the decreased clearance at the indent with no O ring installed, along with a little slop in the cable were the culprits. Thanks for your help!

Interesting development; I just connected both sides of the NSS together and tried to start the engine- no go. Jiggled the throttle back and forth a few times and it started right up. Any ideas for the next step?

Thanks!

link

Sounds like a neutral safety switch issue. I would jump it by putting both wires on the same side and see if this fixes the issue. If so, get another switch. Also, if so, put it back and keep jiggling for the time being to be safe. If that doesn’t fix it I would look at the kill switch. Sounds like you have chased both before. Not much else that the shifter can change to go from no turnover of the engine to turning over. You can use a multimeter to test both as well. In any case (meter or jumping) needs to be before you jiggle.

If you think it is throttle position and not the neutral safety switch reset your throttle cables. There is a great write up by Alan on how to do this. Search via google. I’ll look in a bit.

We have had a starting issue for several years on and off. 1999 Sport Nautique with GT40 engine and 1023 hours (all ours!). A few things to mention:
- recent tuneup (2022) with new spark plugs and wires, points & condenser, fuel filter and timing check.
- have had the lanyard clip not fully seated in the kill switch bite us on occasion over the years.
- changed neutral switch some years back (local Nautique dealer recommended that and it did seem to help for a few years), and I’m still suspicious the issue we have is connected with the position of the throttle cable in relation to this switch contact.
- our symptoms: when ignition switch is turned I can hear the (starter solenoid?) click and hear the low pressure fuel pump run in the fuel cell. But the engine may or may not even try to turn over. What I do; and this always works, is shift the throttle cable from forward to reverse and then back to neutral. I may need to do this a few times, but it always starts. No issues with running once we’re going. And if I do shut down there’s a 75% chance it’ll start right back up.
- we changed our 6-year old Autocraft Silver size 34 out for a new Everstart Maxx size 65 today; more as a preventive measure than anything because I don’t have good reason to believe we have a battery issue. Still had to jiggle the throttle to start.
- pulled off the dash cover and checked for any loose connections; none found.

I know just enough to be dangerous and when my son (works on cars a lot) was here last week we got out the multi-meter and he was pointing me towards a bad (or just old) starter or starter solenoid.

But I am determined not to be a “parts chaser” and then I found this thread. I hope someone has dealt with this issue or can point me in the right direction. Thanks for any suggestions!

Steve

Some info on gt40 SLOW/limp mode in the linked thread

A Hard Start When Warm issue solved by replacing leaky fuel injectors as described here:

Bri892001 wrote: Canuck-Surfer wrote: Can someone with edit rights to the database add either this link or the part number to MAP sensor PN notes. Ford number is E7DZ-9F479-A https://www.rockauto.com/en/partsearch/?partnum=E7DZ-9F479-A I added this particular Part Number.  You mentioned a couple others as well. Do you have a complete list of the ones you want? I'm thinking it might make sense for me to add a separate tab, just for the part numbers, so I'm able to fit in a little more information. Also, what do you guys think of the layout of the spreadsheet in general?  I'm thinking of changing it so that it's rows of data, and then people can filter results by engine issue, and see a list of the different resolutions in the links?  As the information has accumulated, I'm thinking the current layout might be a little cumbersome.

What about a separate tab in the worksheet that has a comparison of PCM part numbers to Motorcraft and other Napa or rock auto part numbers?

The one mounted into the waterpump sends the water temp signal to the dash gauge through the "10" pin connector. The SLOW water sensor at around 210* sends the signal to the ECM. The low oil pressure switch is also connected through the ecm . Then obviously both trigger the limp mode and turn on the dash light through a single pin connector.

The one on Nautique parts is the SLOW switch. Not near my parts book at the moment so I'm not sure if its a pcm thing or a Ford part. The rock auto one is confusing it looks like they are showing two different pictures . The one with the cone point and the plastic plug in connector is the coolant temp for the ECM

Link not working, but I cannot find any reference to that part listing for that temp switch in the waterpump in my Ford or PCM book.....

David F wrote: I probably should have bench tested original LP pump for fluid flow (the pump runs when bench tested).  May still do that and report.

On my '96. I did the LP pump flow test and although it was pumping, it was at a little more than half the expected volume. Replaced it and problems went away. Lesson learned that it can still be pumping but be faulty. You are solid for the next 20 years!!

'99 Nautique Super Sport, GT40