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Aluminum heads on RWC engine |
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79nautique 
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 Topic: Aluminum heads on RWC enginePosted: October-13-2005 at 7:00pm |
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Stainless steel does not have the same electrolysis issues as carbon steel. That's why magnets will not stick to stainless steel unless it is of poor quality with a high carbon content. Mine's been in the water 24/7 for that last 4 season and I still have the same battery, starter, alternator, and bolts and don't have a anode anyware.
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mackwrench
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Joined: February-25-2005 Location: Gone Status: Offline Points: 190 |
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Posted: October-13-2005 at 6:18pm |
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I am a strong beliver in adding zinc. Just like stated above even running in 100% freshwater will not stop electrolysis. I belive this adds to a LOT of the altnator, starter, and other electrical system issues I see on this site. Mine runs only in freshwater and I can see the zinc I have installed "give up". You may still want to add some zinc to boat espically if boat stays in water for extended periods of time. Besides the pencil plug type you may want to add one at the prop shaft as well. They make a anode zinc that will clamp around shaft. There should already be one of the pencil types in the trans cooler. Good connections, proper grounding and zinc is why I have run the same battery (no deepcycle), starter and altnator for over 3 years with no problems.
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79nautique
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Posted: October-13-2005 at 4:57pm |
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ooppsss Should have been ARP
Summit Racing listing ARP-454-2101 351W bolt kit |
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79nautique
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Posted: October-13-2005 at 4:53pm |
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Get rid of the stock bolts and buy A.R.E. brand bolts and you won't have a problem, well at least I haven't seen any on mine for the last three years.
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GottaSki
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Joined: April-21-2005 Location: NE CT Status: Offline Points: 3363 |
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Posted: October-13-2005 at 4:37pm |
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zoinkes, thank you Tom,
that may alter my plans... Perhaps I'll just do an Al intake and add zinc anodes 'pencil' pipe plugs in the water passage (found some at lighthouse marine, all different sizes), then remove and inspect the intake for a few seasons before fubar-ing a $1200 set of heads; If the zinc can't control the electrolosys, its either FWC or iron heads. |
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"There is nothing, absolutely nothing, half so much worthwhile as messing around with boats...simply messing."
River Rat to Mole |
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Tom
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Posted: October-12-2005 at 10:16pm |
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Just finished a repair on a customer who put an Edelbrock aluminum manifold on his VolvoPenta (GM 350ci) engine two years ago... His intake bolts were corroded at the area where the aluminum to cast iron head so bad we threw them all away. Many other signs of electrolysis all over the short block.
Have a friend who put a similar aluminum manifold on an '86 MasterCraft and it corroded thru a water passage in one year and stuck his motor... Both boats were 100% freshwater... Tom in Georgia |
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GottaSki
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Joined: April-21-2005 Location: NE CT Status: Offline Points: 3363 |
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Posted: October-12-2005 at 2:27pm |
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Good to hear AW, thanks for your thoughtful reply.
I was looking forward to sharing results, but now looks like I now need to wait a season, tranny is slipping under load now, so it will be on the bench shortly. |
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"There is nothing, absolutely nothing, half so much worthwhile as messing around with boats...simply messing."
River Rat to Mole |
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AWhite70
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Joined: March-05-2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 242 |
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Posted: October-11-2005 at 10:12am |
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I wouldn't think it'd be too bad. You'd definitely get corrosion on aluminum before you would with iron, but I'd bet you'd get years of operation before having any problems. Lots of people run aluminum intake manifolds and I've never heard of a problem. I run an Edelbrock Performer on my '79 and I had to remove it after one season and it still looked like new.
The safest think for aluminum heads would be to switch to closed cooling system but that would add weight. I'd say give it a shot. I bet you'd get at least 5 years out of them with proper maintenance. |
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GottaSki
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Joined: April-21-2005 Location: NE CT Status: Offline Points: 3363 |
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Posted: October-10-2005 at 3:30pm |
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What would you say to someone like myself considering aluminum heads on a RWC ford engine that will only see fresh water?
I understand Edlebrock makes chebby marine heads that are anodized, but do not stock anodized ford heads. I suspect these were for high-end offshore salty go-fasts. I havn’t inquired about a special build for a ford… If I went bare Al, do you suspect a sacrificial zinc anode would be critical for success? Where would one put it? If you’re asking why not iron heads, when gt40p’s appear adequate for everyone else..this is all I can offer… We're slalom junkies and the boat’s wake and side spray are extreemly sensitive to boat loading.. When my boat is lightly loaded,staffed and fueled the wake is dramatically better, and I am pretty certain that if I can shed 60-70# with aluminum intake and heads, the wake will go from great to exceptional. I would love to also find some SS Commander log manifolds too, then I’m shedding perhaps 130# all together. Any leads and opinions are welcome. thanks, GottaSki |
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"There is nothing, absolutely nothing, half so much worthwhile as messing around with boats...simply messing."
River Rat to Mole |
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