Transmission re-install

ultrarunner wrote: Never got that high on the torque. Maybe 20 or so. I won't trust the other ones at this point, so 6 new ones coming.

I'm curious as to what diameter and thread pitch did they turn out to be?

ultrarunner wrote: Interestingly enough, talked with a buddy of mine tonight that's recently been to Merc schools, and SOP is not to reuse a bolt...

Wow, if he rebuilds an engine, that's a lot of bolts!

GlassSeeker wrote: wow thats a testament to the strength of a grade 8 bolt!

Andy,
The metric 8.8 is about equal in tensile to our grade 5. It's not a grade 8.

BTW, a grade 8 or 9 will not stretch. If you take it past the tensile, they will break. We use grade 8's and 9's literally by the hundreds in the stamping dies at work so trust me, they will break!

So, the bottom line is depending on the application, a higher grade may not be a good choice. Our maintenance department has found this out the hard way!!

Mark,
Here's the metric bolt torque specs just in case you couldn't find them.

That bolt sure does look stretched! Is that one that you torqued to 45 ft. lbs.?

I was using an inch-lb chart and converting. Thanks for the better chart.....

Here is my bolt:

On face is says V M M and 8 . 8

The one pictured looks stretched, likely from over-tightening and possibly by me. Others look fine, but it can't hurt to replace 'em all....

I suspect these are off-the-shelf bolts?

Ahh....brain fade....

It's a quarter inch diameter bolt. So that equates to about 7 ft-lbs.

Is that tight enough?

So on these half-inch, 20 thread stainless bolts, that shows about 45 ft-lbs? That sound about right? Seems pretty damn tight!

Ok, new seals installed on the oil pump housing. That main seal is a little bitch to get seated, and as I don't have a press, I just used the old seal in between a small mallet and tapped it down till it appeared seated. See pics.

I checked the PCM manuals and I can't find the torque values for the oil pump housing or the damper plate. Anyone have these handy?

In addition, I didn't see the fluid capacity either as the charts didn't correspond to my PCM unit as far as the PN goes. Is this a two-quart unit, trans only, then add to full after installed and running to account for the lines and cooler?

Thanks Kapla. Any significance to the all the letters stamped on the face? A - B, etc? Does it correspond to any particular alignment when mounting it, or just bolt it in? No paperwork came with it.

Thanks,

Ultra

That helps.

Word on the street is that PCM updated their 1.23 damper design. Sounds like youre good to go.

TRBenj wrote: It would help us point you in the right direction if you told us what year boat you have, as well as what engine and transmission you have.

Mark,
Yes, it would sure help big time! Yesterday, I actually went through some of your old posts looking for info on what engine/trans you have and didn't find anything. What's up, isn't the boat you have a CC? It doesn't matter since everyone here helps no matter what you have.

If in fact you do have a CC, is it in the diaries section? if so, get an avitar up so it's a quick link to your diary listing.

Yep, I'll call them tomorrow an verify the part...

Ok, pulled the boat today and getting ready to put the transmission in as soon as I swap out the seals, etc...

Ok, so, open up the box with the new damper plate, as it was recommended that I do MORE work, and pull the bell housing to change it since the trans was out anyway. Makes sense.

So, this damper plate sure looks different than whats in there, mainly being round and without exposed springs unlike the one that's in there. This is a PCM and ski dim did indicate a newer style. Is what I have good to go?

Thanks