Damn light grounds on trailers

Probably too similar to goofball. As you know, we're not allowed to be obnoxious to each other on here. Especially Pete regarding newbies!

I just finished re-working my brother-in-laws trailer receiver that now looks like dimples on a 6olfball because the chrome became completely pitted with rust from the salt. I have a single place steel snowmobile trailer that I have to sandblast or sand and repaint every three or four years (about every other time I change a connector - HA!). At least now with the LED lights I don't have to replace the light fixtures(at least not in 6 years).

8122pbrainard wrote: Steve, Are you using the little rubber cap that fits over the trailer connector? I have never used them as I feel they just trap water which leads to more corrosion? The same may go with the tape you are putting on the connector when trailering? Yes on the LED's eliminating the socket problem.

Pete, I think your right about the cap, it keeps moisture in furthering the corrosion. I have just come to the conclusion that there is nothing you can do, but replace them when they rot away and the pins start falling out.

fisher plow harnesses are still made of brass I believe, i find here in new england that those flat 4 plug (galv ?) plugs make it about a yr or two.   i followed my son the other day behind the landscape trailer and couldnt figure out why the lights god weird around turns ,, i finally figured out it was only grounded thru the ball.rusty at that.

I've had trailers that got a good enough ground off the ball itself.

I always unplug before backing into water just in case waterproof isn't totally waterproof. Hot bulb vs cold water. Not good.

8122pbrainard wrote: Steve, I've never had a problem with the actual trailer connections. On the truck or on the trailer itself? Maybe you got some later ones that were made in China? I do use the 7 way on the truck and then the 7 to 4 adapter when needed. I have had issues with it's connections and corrosion but some Scotch Brite and dielectric works. BTW, you can still have ground problem with LED's. They still need the 12 volts.

By going with LED's you remove the socket rot worry. Yes, all of mine are wired with power and ground, I never had any luck with chassis ground either.

My connector problem is on the trailer connector on the actual trailer. I am sure they are out of china, do they make them anywhere else. Guess just have to live with it...

The days fly by just like when you were on vacation. Now that the Mrs only has the weekends off,I don't do much around the house then so I don't cut into her time off.I can do what I need to do during the week. I'll give you a call one of these evenings.

jbear wrote: you mean there was another method of splicing rather than 'beanies'? john

You didn't forget twist and tube did you?? Where have you been?

you mean there was another method of splicing rather than 'beanies'?


john

Chris,
McMaster has a bunch of different types.

adhesive lined heat shrink On the left, click on "moisture resistant" and "standard" and all the types will come up.

Since both my 15 HP Evenrude outboards from the mid 70's are trashed (way too many hours and no compression left in them) I picked up an extremely low hour 25 HP 1994 Yamaha. Anyway, it came with a Lund 15' and of course a ShoreLand'r trailer. It also came with light electrical problems!!

I believe it was Henry Ford who, saving a nickle started the practice of using vehicle frames as a ground conductor. It always seems to be the biggest problem with trailer lights. Any corrosion on the frame, at the light mounting bolts or at the tongue connection and you have resistance. Hunting down the bad can be time consuming and always a PITA. I just start at one end and clean every connection and then assemble using dielectric grease. Compounding the problem are the lights themselves. The lamp sockets aren't even corrosion resistant!!

My other trailers have all been rewired but, they also do not rely on the frame for a ground. I wired them with a ground wire to each light.

One more hint is to never use those damn insulation displacing T taps. Solder and adhesive lined heat shrink is the way to go on any T or butt splice.