Boats For Sale:
Rub Rail falling off |
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David F 
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Joined: June-11-2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 1770 |
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 Topic: Rub Rail falling offPosted: November-04-2005 at 7:44am |
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open cell foam rubber.
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Jim_In_Houston
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Joined: September-06-2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 1120 |
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Posted: November-02-2005 at 7:12pm |
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Hi all. Been a long while since I had time to post - been travelin'. What kind of foam are you fellows talking about?
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Happy owner of a '66 and a '68 Mustang
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David F
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Joined: June-11-2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 1770 |
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Posted: October-28-2005 at 2:21pm |
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Hey Tleed:
You recycled my method of patching holes. It works better than any other method I have ever tried. The secret to its success is that the foam expands on the back side of the stripped out hole thus locking itself into the hole like a rivit. the resin soaked sponge holds screws exceptionally well, BUT not quite as strong as originally. |
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82tique
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Joined: June-04-2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 339 |
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Posted: October-28-2005 at 1:09pm |
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off the subject but, Whenever a word like 'perfect pa**' or 'fibergla**' is typed .....it automatically censors the 'a**' ....funny.
Sorry I'm an a** and had to that point out. 
I wonder what happens when I type the words t*ts, sh*t, and f**k?....OK what about sh*tzu? |
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tleed
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Joined: August-24-2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 267 |
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Posted: October-28-2005 at 9:43am |
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MarkB:
(I'm recycling someone else's advice here, with a couple of additional pointers.) I think you should stick to epoxy resin, not polyester resin (like you typically find in auto parts stores for car fibergla** repair). Epoxy resin is better for marine use, mostly because it's stronger. Get a small piece of foam and soak it in resin, then poke it into the hole(s). It will hold the resin and harden into a ma** you can drill or sink a screw into without drilling. Auto body filler won't be anywhere near as hard. My '69 rub rail is aluminum and has several loose screws. It takes a beating against docks, and I don't think auto body filler would stand up to the wear and tear. Thomas |
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markb
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Joined: December-24-2004 Location: Australia Status: Offline Points: 76 |
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Posted: October-28-2005 at 12:51am |
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Thanks guys,
Been doing a bit of reading and body filler should be good since it was originally designed for fibregla** repair. I just took delivery of my '76 as well today so as soon as she's out of fumigation (thanks california) I'll be doing a double restore job. The rope on this one is quite manky as well so if it won't clean up then it's job x 2. |
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Jared Johnston
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Joined: September-08-2005 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 31 |
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Posted: October-27-2005 at 12:01pm |
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I just took out some bondo/body filler when I did the same job on my boat. That was just to fill the holes and give my new screws something to bite into. I haven't re-installed the rub rail, but don't expect to have any issues because the bondo is nice and hard.
You can see the images of where my rubrail was before I did this at www.78skinautique.zoomshare.com |
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A boat is just a hole in the water to toss your money into. Here is mine! http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=865&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1976&yrend=1980
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az86-2001
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Joined: October-27-2005 Status: Offline Points: 16 |
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Posted: October-27-2005 at 11:54am |
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You could just drill new holes, make sure you countersink them to avoid spider cracks in the gelcoat
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Tim D
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Joined: August-23-2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 2641 |
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Posted: October-27-2005 at 10:27am |
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You can get some auto repair resign with chopped fiberglass already in it.
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Tim D
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Morfoot
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Joined: February-06-2004 Location: South Lanier Status: Offline Points: 5323 |
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Posted: October-27-2005 at 8:12am |
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Hey Mark, the best way to repatch hoels in fiberglass is with resin. If you lucky enough to find some "down under" then try to mix some milled fiberglass ( basicly fiberglass dust) with the resin to make a paste to fill the holes. If you can get to the back side of the hole put some tape over it so that that the resin won't run out of the hole. Do the same on the front side once you fill it so it won't run out of there either. You'll even minimize sanding too.
You could always use a machine screw with a nut and washer if you don't want to mess with a fiberglass repair. |
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"Morfoot; He can ski. He can wakeboard.He can cook chicken.He can create his own self-named beverage, & can also apparently fly. A man of many talents."72 Mustang "Kermit",88 SN Miss Scarlett, 99 SN "Sherman"
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markb
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Joined: December-24-2004 Location: Australia Status: Offline Points: 76 |
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Posted: October-26-2005 at 10:22pm |
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Hi,
My imported '81 is starting to get to me now with all the little jobs that need doing. I am sure one day I might think it was worth it. The rub rail is ill fitting and falling off in some places with the screws ripped out of the glass in some places. Apart from the fitting it's not looking too bad so I am hoping to refit it and restore. Is this feasible/worth doing? What's the best thing to fix the old holes with (gelcoat repairer?) The other option of course is to junk the old rope one and go for a solid new rub rail. Opinions please. |
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