vibrations

GTX.... I'm talking about the rag top GTX???? If your screen name does infact refer to the the classic Plymouth I think it does? If not disregard.

1996 Ski Nautique GT40. I'll post some photos soon

While I agree with you two and check mine on the trailer,the PCM book I have,1988ish says to check in the water.It also tells you to check everytime you launch Must be the lawyers

Eric always has stated that it's is best to do an engine to prop shaft alignment in the water. I personally don't feel there is that much difference with our small hulls. However, remember a total alignment starts at the strut and it's hard to check the strut to port alignment when the boats in the water.

teelta wrote: Thanks Pete for encouraging me to do it myself - it really wasn't that bad!

Trey,
I'm happy that I was able to help.

Trey,
I'd have to say you are OK since the only issue is in reverse. When the trans is in reverse and the planetary gear set is running, some will vibrate.

Awesome job!

teelta wrote: Yea, I'll definitely go ARE - not much difference in price anyway. I dropped the rudder. When I'm ready to put it back in can I just put it back in there or do I need to adjust (tighten) the packing nut? Should I go ahead and replace the rope in there or leave it alone?

I would but I would but I'm a little anal about using the old parts while I have it all apart.

Just replaced my shaft and coupling and put a new prop on. The coupling on mine was causing a vibration noise at slow idle sounded like the tranny was chattering. Realigned everything it’s like a new boat no vibration at all. Your prop definitely needs repaired. So while you got it all apart I would replace the coupler and shaft (ARE SHAFT) if you don’t want to take a chance to straighten the old one. Was well worth the time and effort. I’m going to see if I can straighten the old shaft. A guy I know can straighten axle shafts, just seeing if it can be done

OK cleaned up the bilge area. Saw some tiny hairline cracks that seem surface level to me. Do you concur?

That makes sense! No engineering background but do know something about restoration...


Just new to boat restoration!    

Thanks for the help and for the lessons!

8122pbrainard wrote: Trey, Clean up the inside of the bilge and check for cracking there. The 4" will work.

Do I push it in more to catch both retaining screws or just use the one? Does it supposed to have the 6" in there?

I might have installed the wrong cutlass bearing! The one I pulled out was 6". The one I got based on other posts was the BACK model from Deep Blue which is only 4". It does not even reach the 2nd retaining screw in the strut. Of course, I didn't realize the difference until I pressed the bearing into the strut!!! Did I get the wrong one for my strut?

Here is a pic of the cracks in the gelcoat (the dark lines outside the recess). I didn't see any on top in the fiberglass but it is pretty dirty - will need to clean.

Trey,
It's typical for shafting to run a thousands or two over in diameter. Your's may be worn slightly. Get the new shaft and measure it when you get it. It should run fairly close to the new cutlass bearing. Report back. I suggest the ARE shaft system. They are about the same cost and they sure are easy to R&R. Give Billy or Karen a call for the ARE. 318 386 2825

Don't worry about the 5200 bedding under the strut. It's not thick enough to make a difference in the shaft alignment to the log.

Yes, whenever you change out a prop or shaft, I suggest lapping. In fact, I even like to lap even if the prop has been on the same shaft before. You never know if the prop rebuild force changed it's tapered bore slightly. Many of the prop shops will run a tapered reamer in the bore after they pound on the prop but not all will. Even so, lap.

Trey,
Some will be taken up when it's pressed into the strut but, get the micrometer out (or vernier calipers) and measure the prop shaft where the cutlass rides.