starting the jel coat job!

Sam - How's the gel coming along?   I am excited to see how you finish this out!

Steve....impressive job. Very encouraging seeing your project moving along. Its motivating me to start on mine...(I have to decide whether to stop skiing for the season and restore the boat or keep footing)

Can you tell us exactly how you flipped your boat and do you have it resting on barrels or something so it does not move when working? Thanks

yes quite cool indeed. i have a system that i plan on using if they still make the correct paper- they did 7 years ago... haha it has probably changed twice! it was a system 3m made for cars- i like it, so if its still around i'll do it that way.
and yea i'll have to look around and get it from the internet, my only prob with it is the foam that is on there isnt' as true as a board and little humps can still stick around. plus you have to hold it just right or else you just sanding with the front or back. we'll see how it goes- i may try the inline.

Gary S wrote: Can't you just buy regular wet and dry paper and cut it down? I thought all sanders were a standard size. I bought one of these to do my work after I blocked it down.On sale you can pick them up for about 40 bucks. I started buying my disc's at McMaster Carr because I'm so close,I get them next day.No one local carries any good selections anymore,and I spent too much time running around trying to find them.

the long board paper is special, it is longer than the 12" sheets you get in home depot packets.   Usually LB paper comes in precut packs or in a roll that is pre cut to width.   those little wet sanders look pretty cool !

sams 85 wrote: i can't seem to find 180-220 sheets for it just stuff below 80...

Check online for some,   I know Amazon has it, and I would guess other outlets as well

i have an inline sander, i can't seem to find 180-220 sheets for it just stuff below 80... at least no where in savannah has any. i would use that in a heart beat, but i am going old school, a block. i know it'll take longer but this WILL be good looking when i am done- the sides especially since i did the carbon fiber!! thanks for the input!
ok gary- maybe he'll chime in or i may pm him... thanks

Hi Sam - Not sure if your shooting for a good enough here or if this is going to be a show piece? From my experience with body work, it looks like you have a good deal of fairing and blocking left to do.   I would highly recommend an inline air sander/panel sander to help get some of the highs and lows out.   I have used a cheap rattle can "guide coat" in the past to help you see where the high spots and low spots are.   if you shoot a light color on the area (dark is ok in this case) and then shoot a contrasting light or dark color in a "splotchy mist" over the top, you'll see pretty quick where the high spots are.   they are the areas where the splotchy coat comes off quickly.   as you continue to sand, you'll see when you're close to smooth as the low spot guide coat comes off. Body work is very time consuming, but if you take your time, you can come out with at VERY nice finished project.   Another hint is that if you can feel a bump or ridge with your hand, you'll see it in the final product.   Keep at it the final product will be something to be really proud of!

ok see the things i don't know, thats helpful... because i have a lot of spots like that... but i was talking about the picture from the rear where the platform mounts, you can see a big gouge that i missed !! but thats cool, great tip.
i don't think i'll have a problem matching the black... :) the upper color will be a pure white so that won't be hard either.
i'm starting to like gel-- it seems easier to work with than car paint!
but yes black is the hardest to work with, this will be my third project that is black. 2 cars and now this. we'll see how i do.

sams 85 wrote: there are some spots i will have to touch up. the back picture shows one.

Looking good! Black is the hardest to work with it shows every imperfection.There is a reason why the first Corvettes were white!
Are you talking this picture behind the rudder port Steve? If your going to sand it anyway you could just clean it off and put some on with a brush,just basically let it puddle on and sand it down again,using a block.It will sand down easily. Then you could give the whole thing another coat. The great thing about gel is you can just add more as long as you have the color from the same batch. If you go and buy more and then spray it on,there can be color differences and when you sand and buff you could go deeper in some areas and you will see the color differences stick out.

masked off ready to spray

so i am done with the bottom of the hull. It most certainly isn't as thick as it was from the factory, i have my doubts if it will be thick enough. it looks ok, a little orange peel here and there where i paused from time to time. i do have a few pinholes, but its just stuff i didn't/could see(bad suface prep on my part) and as soon as i sprayed over it i was like dang...
I used one gallon and one quart of us composites gelcoat, (thats before mixing in styrene, pigment, mekp) to cover the entire hull bottom (to the bottom of the stripe) with 4 generous coats. maybe it wasn't generous enough??   
question, what grit should i sand with if i intend on spraying more, and what grit to use before i start buffing it? thanks for the help

The place you bought the gel coat shoul've gave you a mil thickness gauge, but sounds like they didn't. How many gallons of gel are you going to shoot? What additives are you using?

... hate it when it posts it twice...

Gary S wrote: Steve,what are you using for filler?

I was wondering the same. It looks like West 410 Microlight?

Steve,
If it is the 410, keep in mind it's West's lowest strength filler and designed for light fairing only. I wouldn't use it any thicker than about a 1/16". Also, it's very porous so give it a coat of resin to seal the surface.

before the filler was sanded....


after -