69 Barracuda Exhaust Water Leak |
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Jim_In_Houston
Platinum Member Joined: September-06-2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 1120 |
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Posted: December-23-2005 at 4:05pm |
Thanks jbear. I been travelin. Things are getting back to normal. More later...
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Happy owner of a '66 and a '68 Mustang
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jbear
Grand Poobah Joined: January-21-2005 Location: Lake Wales FL. Status: Offline Points: 8193 |
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J_I_H; Glad to see your post. Where've you been? We've missed your special brand of humor!....john
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"Loud pipes save lives"
AdamT sez "I'm Canadian and a beaver lover myself"... |
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Jim_In_Houston
Platinum Member Joined: September-06-2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 1120 |
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Bummer Bob.
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Happy owner of a '66 and a '68 Mustang
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Bob's2001
Senior Member Joined: March-28-2005 Location: Lake Jackson TX Status: Offline Points: 241 |
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I have a similar problem but it's of my own making. When I pulled the trans I had to raise the back of the engine to get the trans out. This put a tug on the exhaust hoses and one pulled off the through hull. Now I have to move the tank to get back there to get the hose in place. New clamps go without saying and maybe even new hose.
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Bob Ed
83 2001 |
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Jim_In_Houston
Platinum Member Joined: September-06-2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 1120 |
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Based on what I have read I would use the 3M4800. I have never used it but it seems to be less permanent from what I can tell. Try searching this forum for "4800" and see what comes up. I think others here have used it. (I had some left over 5200 on my putty knife and I had to use an electric grinder to get it off.) I think, like any other glue/epoxy/sealant, if your work is not clean or has a thin oil film coating the 5200 will not stick well. It sure was stuck to my putty knife though. I am sure I will never get it off my trim rings when the time comes.
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Happy owner of a '66 and a '68 Mustang
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tleed
Senior Member Joined: August-24-2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 267 |
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So if 3M 5200 is out, does that mean 3M 4800 is the goop of choice? Or is there something else?
Thomas |
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Jim_In_Houston
Platinum Member Joined: September-06-2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 1120 |
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I agree with you ReidP, 1000%. When my tailpipe rings were removed the tail pipes would wiggle. I pushed the 3M 5200 up into the gaps with a putty knife the best I could. This has worked for the time being. The '68 is my daily driver and I don't want to get into anymore major work until I get my '66 into the water. (I gotta have some way to get from my back yard to the grocery store/marina to pick up bread, milk, ice, and those sort of things every couple of days - you just have to hate it, huh?) One day I will pull out the tail pipes and have a look-see. (Another note about lifes little troubles: with the onset of this cold weather I now have to wear a wind breaker when I go for milk. But then again the store is only a 15 minute boat ride. Do they make heaters for these CCs?)
My advise to tleed still stands: pack sealant around your tail pipe rings and see if that stops the leak. I would not use the 5200, however. |
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Happy owner of a '66 and a '68 Mustang
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bwooton
Groupie Joined: June-13-2005 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 91 |
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Marshall, where in nc do you live? i live in asheville i go to lake james and keowee in sc.
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Thanks Bobby
there's no replacement for displacement |
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tleed
Senior Member Joined: August-24-2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 267 |
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So what you're telling me is I can't be sure I've stopped up the leak until I either tear out the back floor under the gas tank (yippee!) and repair/replace the exhaust piping as needed or goop up the outside and plop it back in the water.
The ski pole pulled loose on my last trip out last summer, so I already know I have to go into the front floor. Sounds like I'm going to be pulling up just about all of it. Copper pipe? Three inches in diameter? I think that's the size of my exhaust. Where do you get that? As for the intake, I'm sort of interested. But I'm a bit fearful of a rigged-up cooling system. I have cooling issues as it is without adding something non-standard to the mix. What kind of manifold was that again, and can a simpleton like me figure out how to hook up the water? As for the rest of the motor, I picked up the new donor yesterday. It's an '88 roller cam 318. I'm going to have to get a cam made to make it all work. But after I port and polish the heads and gasket-match the intake & exhaust, it should be a willing over-achiever. One of my fantasies is to take a trip down to NC to take notes on yours & Marshall's boats. Always interested in learning from those who've done it first. Thomas |
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reidp
Platinum Member Joined: December-06-2003 Location: Mooresville, NC Status: Offline Points: 1804 |
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Guys,.....I'm not sure that those "trim" rings aren't there for just that purpose. You should have the thru-hull penetration sealed completely to waterproof the hull. Depending on the boat age, many of the older thru-hull stainless or copper pipes were also scored and glassed to the hull on the inside of the transom. If you've ever had a real problem getting them out, this can be the reason. The original caulking gets/got somewhat brittle over time and I'm sure can let water in and especially if not sealed on the inside as well. So make sure you're sealed well there. But another source of water will typically be the rubber exhaust hoses near the transom by the hose clamps. If the cavities around the hoses still have foam in them you won't see the water exiting the hoses as it just permeates thru the foam. The combination of 30+ years of water infiltration in the foam surrounding the hoses and hardware on the hose clamps (which does rust) tends to rot and crack the hose over time. So in a 60's boat, that would be my guess if sealing the thru-hull doesn't fix it. This was exactly the problem with Marshall Morgan's 70 Mustang. We replaced his long runs of rotted hose with copper pipe, similar to many original CC installs, coupled with several short pieces of rubber hose, and for less cost than the reinforced hose. Hard to believe.
And Thomas, I believe I owe you a phone call as Marshall forwarded me an email from you some time ago, and asked me to call you. Sorry about that lapse. We did most of his engine work at our place and we may be able to hook you up with an intake manifold if you're still interested. |
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nuttyskier2002
Gold Member Joined: September-28-2005 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 669 |
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I used 3M 5200 sealant to bed my strut after removing it and having it straightened. After the stuff cured I had to remove the strut again to get it inline with the packing gland. I was afraid I was going to have a tough time doing that but the strut came right off. I've used it on wood before and had to splinter the wood to get it back apart. Perhaps the gel coat does not allow the 5200 to adhere like it does to wood because gel coat is non porous. Not saying it is the best thing to use but it worked quite well for me. One thing I know you can use is silicone. But make sure you get the 100% stuff. None of this fortified with silicone junk or anything that says it's for bathroom tube and tile. That stuff is mostly latex and if it's not 100% cured when you get it wet, it will wash right off. Also it doesn't stay plyable like silicone.
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95 Malibu Echelon w/Mercruiser 350 Magnum Skier
Former boats: 88 Ski Centurion Tru Trac II 59 Chris Craft Capri (woody) |
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Jim_In_Houston
Platinum Member Joined: September-06-2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 1120 |
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Right. You are on the right track. That is if your problem is the cavaties around the exhaust pipes fill up with water whenever you put your boat in the water. This was the problem I was having.
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Happy owner of a '66 and a '68 Mustang
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tleed
Senior Member Joined: August-24-2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 267 |
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So I am on the right track to believe it's just sealing with the ring, not inside?
Thomas |
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Jim_In_Houston
Platinum Member Joined: September-06-2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 1120 |
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tleed, you have a common problem. I removed the trim rings, cleaned the rings and the fiberglass and sealed with 3M 5200. Do not use this stuff. I discovered after I completed the task that 5200 is way too permanent. I will most likely never get my trim rings off again (in one piece). I think 3M makes a slighlty less permanent sealant called 4800. Maybe some others will chime in and give some opinions. There are some good body guys around here somewhere.
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Happy owner of a '66 and a '68 Mustang
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tleed
Senior Member Joined: August-24-2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 267 |
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Last summer I discovered I have a significant water leak from the right rear exhaust port. Last week I took it apart from the outside to try to find the leak. Still not sure where the water's coming from.
The exhaust port is metal and comes through the rear fiberglass panel. Around that is a metal trim ring that secures with a few screws. The trim ring is hollowed on the back side and had a dried-out-looking tan goopy stuff that looks like some kind of sealant. It has seen better days. If that sealant is supposed to close up the space between the metal pipe and the fiberglass body, then I can certainly see how it would leak. In fact, I can't understand why the other side wouldn't leak, because this stuff looks so dried-up. On the other hand, is it possible the leak is from water flowing up into the pipe and leaking inside there? So I guess my question is: am I done if I just get the right sealant (which is what?) and goop up the trim ring again (after cleaning out the old stuff) and put it back, or do I need to go inside and take up the floor or whatever else inside I need to go through to get to the pipe inside at the back? Thomas |
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