Boat dies while accelerating

I'm more trying to figure out how the dash is getting power now.

I suppose the best thing to do, is remove the switch and test it for continuity. Both with the button pushed in, and popped out. Then you can tell if it is the switch.

I have an accessory breaker that likes to "be broken" in the on position. It takes some finagling to get it to pop back out.

Is yours popped in? And, when you say "everything" are you talking about things that would normally need both the ignition breaker and the key switch to be on? Or, just normal things that need the breaker, like the horn switch, and bilge switch?

Agree with Tim.

Also, from another thread, I saw you've done some rewiring.

Any change the clock got hooked up to the input side of the breaker (constant positive) instead of the output side (switched positive)?

We got the boat running last week and everything is working...engine, horn, bilge, blower, lights. When not in the boat I always turn off the ignition breaker off so the clock is not running.

When I started working on the boat last night I noticed the clock running with the breaker off. So now the main breaker does not close to keep power from running through the dash. (Power is there weather the breaker is open or closed) Is that common with a faulty breaker or could I have power feed from the Ballast resister or solenoid? I plan to go back to the shop tomorrow and take my Volt meter to start troubleshooting.

No readings yet...the boat is still in storage at the river. I need to bring it home next week where I have my tools and a place where I can work on it. Ordered the breaker knowing it would take a few days to arrive. Ryan (SN206) will give me a hand....hopefully

While you guys are going at it I ordered my new circuit breaker for the ignition today from nautique Parts... Hope that fixes the problem until I can evaluate the wiring. :)

Joe,
You need to clarify DC brushed or brushless. They do react to a voltage drop differently! I'm not as stupid as you think I am!!

As one who knows only enough to be dangerous, there is a case where Pete is right - If the wire is feeding a motor, then increased R may result in lower RPM & lower back EMF, thus creating more amp draw. I realize this isn't the case here as it is not the starting circuit that is in question.

Ohms law actually states the exact opposite, current (amps) decreases as voltage decreases.   You have been playin with ac motors for too long...

BuffaloBFN wrote: 8122pbrainard wrote: BuffaloBFN wrote: Check me Pete(and expand if you like): As resistance increases, the current is reduced. In this case, resistance = corrosion. I=V/R Greg, You're close but I'll change the wording. As resistance increases from ether too small wiring to handle the current or corrosion, the voltage drops. Then with the voltage drop, the current (amps/watts) increases compounding the problem. Thanks Pete. I get the equation and the math...it's the translation into real world applications that I'm sorting out. It's all the fault of some guy named Grob.

I maintain that Pete is still all wet on this.

There is more waste heat but not more current created from the increased resistance of any of these loads.

The reality is not different than the equations.

Breakers get weak from internal corrosion of simple mechanical cycling of the materials.. additionally the contacts within the breakers can corrode and have thier own increasing contact resistance which will heat up the breaker to a point where it will pop at a lower than rated current... but too small a wire aint gonna incease the amps going to the circuit fed by that wire..

I looked under the dash a while back and did see a black terminal strip with blacvk wires attached to it. Mabey CC or a previous owner installed that. The wires looked small.

In my case..it was not tripping the breaker...I think corrosion was not allowing for a good connection. When I turned on the blower, bilge pump or nav lights my real voltage (volt meter) would drop to below 10 volts. The engine would run, but the gauges would jump all over the place. When I would run full throttle it would run great for a minute or so and then die. I would have to use pliers to start it through the solenoid and it would just turn over. After it cooled off for a while it would start back up. I also learned later on if I banged on the ignition breaker it would start up with the key. Once I rewired and cleaned up the breaker, I have not had a problem with the boat since. I am getting about 13.7 volts +- (volt meter) when running now. I am getting very little drop if any when nav lights, bilge or blower is on. Some times the blower will drop it a little, but not enough to worry about.

If you have any electrical back ground, these boats are not that difficult to rewire. It just takes time on your back under the dash. I pulled the front seat out and loaded up with blade connectors, ring connectors and lots of 14 gauge black, red and purple wire. The PO of the boat already had + and - terminal blocks screwed to the back of the dash so that made wiring considerably easier.

OK....Give me a week or two to get the boat home and get started on it. Thanks Pete, Greg and Philip

I am terrible at electrical troubleshooting and analysis, so in simple terms is this what I need to do.
1. With boat running get the voltage readings off the battery.
2. Get same readings off the wire connector on the ignition circuit breaker, coil and electrical choke....while boat is running.
3.If there is a significant drop in volts replace the wires. (I will post the readings next week when I bring the boat home)
4. Replace the ignition circuit breaker for good practice.