prop shaft coupling

kenny, burnt at the packing is from overtightening or running it when dry. see if you can make the flexable hose to the log shorter or longer to get away from the burnt area. repack it and make sure it drips while running.

79, it took a couple days and every tool i owned to get the flange off of my 72. i knew it was trashed, so next time i'll whip the sawzall out and be done with it.

elberts sells the complete kit with the purdy stainless flange, key, nut and set screw. mr burgess said that oj makes them also if you want to price shop. whomever you use, find out their particular length measuring procedure. it should be from the tranny flange end to the beginning of the threads. the shaft length is actually marked on the 60 and 69.

another beauty of of the double tapper is the alignment at the coupling that you don't get with a single taper. it's still kinda a biotch to tighten the end nut. elberts tool is like 20 bucks, but a piece of bar stock and two bolts will sufice.

THANKS' FOR THE INPUT. Tom that good old Tenessee backwards thinking comes in handy every now and then

I do have a 1" shaft, don't know the length, I guess I was expecting to see a double tapper shaft verses a single, now with a double tapper shaft I would assume you have to change the style of coupling to allow clearnce for the lock nut? I'm not looking forward to pulling the coupling off with a sheared key, I would say that it should be re-usable but will have to wait and see.

Are there any advatages or dis-advantages to a single verses a double tapper shaft other than a double being easier to remove when servicing the packing gland's, or strut bushing?

silly rabbits, tricks are for kids.

the older single taper shafts are keyed with two set screws to hlod the shaft for reverse.

elberts or skidim sell the double taper type shafts with the stainless flange for a couple hundred. fo shizzle.

look at the elberts site for the place to measure the shaft. i think its from the start of the threads on the prop end. ie a 48" shaft is actually 52". i would drop an inch or two if the prop doesn't get to close to the hull.

peace brothers. when my buddy had his bayliner, we relied on the fishermen to tow our butts back to the dock when she broke down. we didn't care if it was a lund, ranger or bullet. they all towed the same. the stoned mechanic at the marina did not tighten the drain on the lower unit one time. my bright idea was to remove the upper screw and putter her on in. the flow of water into the drain hole and out the level hole kept it from locking up. i would never do it again, but it did get us back to the dock.

I'M NOT ASKING FOR ADVICE, AND WHEN I DO I DO GET ADVICE FROM SKIER'S NOT FAT OLD FISHERMEN IN CHEAP LUND's.

I do like to fish, from a RANGER, then again maybe thats not in your budget and you had to settle for something less.

I'm asking if the OEM shaft does or does not have a thread and retaining nut on the transmission end of the shaft and what the keyway size is DAVE. It's not to hard to use a digital caliber to measure the slot, well maybe you would have trouble.

I only call Mid-West C.C. to purchase parts that I can not get from Vince. My PCM manual and boat are 100 miles from my present location, so I cannot use either as reference until this week-end when I'm there. And when I do seek advice I know it won't come from you Hope your half ass, cheap way out of your rusty tanks holds up. Maybe you need to spend more time on your LUND.

Reidp don't worry I've said All I have to say, even if others want to join in, I can take just as much as I give, and I'm due some and can live with it.

I pulled my engine over the week-end, getting it ready to replace with a 315hp long block. I notice that the coupling on the tranny side was just pressed on and there was not a nut on the end of the prop shaft. And of course the key way was sheared. I still have to remove the coupling from the shaft but is it normal that there is no nut on this end? and does anyone know the size and length of the keyway. I don't trust the previous owners mechanical skills.