Fuel Filter

Awhite is correct about the way a fuel/water separators work. The spin-on is the BEST way to do this on a gas marine engine. If the filter is serviced (replaced) as a regular maintenance item, like at least once a year, rust will not be a issue. Mercruiser has used them for years & Look at any newer inboard boats. If you have the amount of water in your fuel to do what john33617 states above, you've got more problems than replacing the fuel filter will solve. I would not ever use the inline automotive type that is pictured above. They don't filter fuel before the pump & Thats 2 more areas close to the dist. & carb that can leak. I would rather have a one piece metal tube from the pump to the carb. Try this e-bay find instead.....

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/MARINE-FUEL-WATER-SEPERATOR-FILTER-ASSEMBLY-20901A_W0QQitemZ4604625377QQcategoryZ26451QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

the metal on spin on filters is very thin , they can rust out from the inside and leak , the fram will rust inside the bottom where the water sits , but is thick and has a drain plug , spin on filters are made for outboards

do not use a spin on filter in an inboard bilge , that fram is made for inboards , napa sells new filters for it

See my above post about water separation, I know what I'm talking about. I've designed fuel filters for diesel engines with water separators.

The filter media does not hold the water, it allows fuel to pass but the water will not. The water then coalesces down the filter media due to gravity and collects at the bottom of the can. The purpose of the transparent bowls is so you can see the water and drain it.

You tend not to see plastic and glass bowls on marine engines though because there are regulations mandating metal filter enclosures for fire safety. Fuel filter/water separators without the glass/plastic bowl on the bottom still have empty space in them below the filter element to allow space for the water to collect without contacting the filter media.

Hmmm... I always thought that water seperators operated by gravity alone. Water is heavier than gas, so it settles to the bottom of the canister rather than passing through the filter media. The canister can then be periodically drained from the bottom to let any water out.

Remeber the old glass bowl style filters that were on 1950's cars? Water always collects in the bottom of the glass bowl and then the fuel passes through the strainer screen on top.

Dude:

My recommendation is that you go ahead and install a filter/water seperator. On my '77, I made a steel bracket out of 1.5"x1/4" flat bar stock welded into a flat "L" shape. I bolted this to the front of the block just ahead of the oil pressure sending unit (there are two unused threaded bosses in this location, at least on my engine). I mounted the water seperator on this bracket. My reasoning behind my suggestion is that I have experience first hand what water in the fuel can do to carburetors...internal corrosion. Once the corrosion starts, the carburetor is basically junk as the rust particles foul the needle valve.

As an aside (and not really important), but my thougts on how the water seperator work is that the filtering media actually absorbs the water and holds it while letting the fuel pass through. So, once the media is saturated with water, and can hold no more, it will start letting it go through. Conseqeuntly, be sure to change the filter often, especially the first two times or so as your tank may have quit a bit of water in it. Just think of those blankets or pads that you can through in your bilge to soak up oil but not water...the water seperator kind of works like that except in reverse...I THINK (definately could be wrong here)!

Bottom line: Add that filter/seperator. I have seen two types. One simple has a screw on/off canister just like a oil filter. the other is similiar, but has a metal canister on the bottom of the filter which is re-used, but screws on/off (filter is open at both ends).

Dang, 79 Nautique is right again!?!? I'm glad he posts here.
I changed my filter on my "84 recently. I removed the whole assembly (which is mounted to a stringer) and unscrewed the bottom canister. (It was tough to get off because it hadn't been changed in years.) Then I popped the new filter element into the assembley, tightened the canister back on (not too tight, 1/2 turn or something after it contects with the gasket) then put it back in the boat. It would have been difficult to do this if I hadn't removed the entire assembly.
Does this sound like the type of filter you have? I think most of us have older boats and I'm not sure about the newer ones (ok, to me a 95 is pretty new).
Skidim.com has always done a great job helping me out. Check out their website and see what your boat has. If it's the canister style, just order the element and do it. Now that I know how, it's easy.
The water collects in the bottom of the canister. You can unscrew a plug in the bottom to drain it if you have to. The element should be changed once a year. Mine wasn't and it somehow kept running.

I just replaced my filter oil/water separator canister in my 89 nautique. I also pulled out and cleaned the small screen at the carb. I installed a GLM product to replace an AC Delco product. It cost only $7. I don't have experience with Fram. The canister looks like an inverted oil filter. It screws on/off just like an oil filter.

I removed/installed the canister using an adjustable plastic wrench with rubber strap. The housing remained attached to the boat. It was very easy; it took only about 5 minutes.

Good luck.

I've read on this thread throughout this board, but I just want to make sure on this one.
95 Sport with 351. Carberated.
I have not ever changed the fuel filter. It's not having any troubles--ran like the usual dream yesterday--but I want to change it. It has a small cannister type filter in the fuel line between tank and pump. It says Fram on it. I've read that I can take it apart (though some have said it's not easy) and there is an element inside that is to be replaced. Some of you, it looks like, have replaced the whole thing with a fuel/water separator. I had one of those on my old Supra and liked it. What's the verdict? Should I stick with the cannister filter and just change out the element inside or go to the fuel/water separator with the spin on element?