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2002 san heater connections

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mike32 View Drop Down
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    Posted: November-07-2012 at 11:21pm
Well I guess I will. I can't test it until spring and I wanted to make sure that it was correct while I had time to do it.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote GlassSeeker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-07-2012 at 1:33am
when my heater core used to leak I just stuck an elbow in one hose and then to the other hose to bypass the heater.

why not just hook it up?
This is the life
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mike32 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-07-2012 at 12:55am
Tstat housing.   Well which part is incorrect?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hollywood Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-06-2012 at 11:46pm
I'm just going to give a resounding no to most of that. You have some reading to do.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mike32 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-06-2012 at 9:31pm
So let me get this straight, the block and the intake manifold are both positive pressure. So the other side needs to go to the small connection on the water pump referred to as RWP. The pic that I posted shows the line connected at the water pump, isn't this the return side of the pump? The only discharge off the pump goes to the testator housing, right?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote quinner Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-06-2012 at 7:03pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hollywood Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-06-2012 at 6:03pm
Anyone with factory installed heaters please chime in. Year/model/engine
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-06-2012 at 4:43pm
Originally posted by watrski watrski wrote:

Originally posted by Hollywood Hollywood wrote:

And then there were 3 clowns.

Both of those ports have positive pressure. Which ever one is higher pressure will be the supply. I can't say for sure which one that actually is.


Bingo. Return before the RWP.

That may be ideal, but thats not where PCM/CC puts it (they use the circ pump for the return). And the factory heaters put out great heat.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote watrski Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-06-2012 at 4:06pm
Originally posted by Hollywood Hollywood wrote:

And then there were 3 clowns.

Both of those ports have positive pressure. Which ever one is higher pressure will be the supply. I can't say for sure which one that actually is.


Bingo. Return before the RWP.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hollywood Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-06-2012 at 2:09pm
And then there were 3 clowns.

Both of those ports have positive pressure. Which ever one is higher pressure will be the supply. I can't say for sure which one that actually is.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-06-2012 at 2:02pm
You two are both clowns!

No one is asking which is supply and return on the heater core side... of course it doesnt matter which way the water flows through the core.

Not sure why it was implied that pulling the feed from the block would provide inadequate heat. Block and intake manifold are the 2 most common places Ive seen the feed tied to. Intake might be better since its last in the cooling loop, but block should be fine too.

Return can be plumbed to the rwp or circ pump, seems the OP's set up uses the latter. Nothing wrong with that.

Originally posted by mike32 mike32 wrote:

What are these connections for? Why are they tied together with the valve being open? Are they the connections for the heater that I couldn't locate?

The answer to your question is yes, those are the heater connections. Theyre probably tied together in order to bypass the broken core. Putting a hose between them would be the easiest way to do that... way easier than removing the barbs and replacing with plugs. I suspect it doesnt matter much whether that valve is open or closed.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hollywood Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-06-2012 at 1:14pm
This conversation is useless without a fundamental understanding of hydraulics.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hollywood Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-06-2012 at 12:40pm
Originally posted by quinner quinner wrote:

The heater cores don't care about supply/return, hook either way.


Of course not. You could hook it up to the raw water supply and dump the outlet overboard.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hollywood Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-06-2012 at 12:00pm
Start phoning big dealers in the north and see if you can find one that has any experience with this application. I just don't think the current setup would provide much useful heat. Perhaps you can fit a nipple/pipe or a 45 elbow and then a Tee. How about a few pictures of the manifold port area?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mike32 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-06-2012 at 12:50am
I guess I didn'T give enough info, this is a gm 350 apex. The heater is factory but the coil was busted when I bought it and the lines are there but just laying under the motor. On your picture, the line connected to the manifold on yours, my manifold has a temp sensor in that location, and to turn a 90 elbow into this location can't be done because it would hit the fuel rail. So could this be why the other locations where used? Also is the manifold the supply side to the heater and the pump connection the return? Which would the connection I have at the lower side of the block be? Supply or return? On your picture what is the blue line tee'd into that line in the background?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hollywood Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-05-2012 at 2:10pm
The hot supply should be coming from the intake manifold, and returning to a T before the RWP or the block. It also seems to work well returning to the U pipe out of the thermostat housing. This is the common Ford setup. The return on a Chevy with a knock sensor would be off the circulation pump as you seem to have. your setup is messed up, it wouldn't be very warm even if the heater was connected.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-05-2012 at 1:42pm
Originally posted by quinner quinner wrote:


Typically a heater will tap in 2 spots with 1.5-2" hose, the water pump and the manifold.

I think you mean 5/8".
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mike32 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-04-2012 at 11:01pm
What are these connections for? Why are they tied together with the valve being open? Are they the connections for the heater that I couldn't locate? One is on the water pump, one is on the lower part of the block starboard side.
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