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Prop selection '82 Ski Tique

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TRBenj View Drop Down
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    Posted: January-09-2013 at 3:10pm
Big cams dont do well by themselves if he has an otherwise stock engine. Its all about matching to your other components. Our "wild" cam performs worlds better out of the hole and in the midrange as compared to the stock cam (same rectangle heads). A lot of that can be attributed to the roller though. 4k RPM sounds like its either underperforming a good bit, or has too big of a prop on it. Prop it to run 4400-4600 (if stock) and it will perform much better, both down low and up top. The stock peanut port heads and low compression ratio wouldnt have it responding very well to a big stick.

We got our shaft modified for $50, but had it run much more than that, I think we would have opted for a dual taper instead.
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phatsat67 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote phatsat67 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-09-2013 at 1:45pm
I think we are just going to order a new shaft because our supplier is so cheap. Tim, I showed Mark the video of your footer and he flipped out haha. I don't think a cam with that much duration would fit Mark's bill for the way he uses it. The motor is coming out for an oil leak and I think we may go with a different cam (stock now) to amp up power for when we open up prop selection with the short shaft. With the motor out the shaft swap will be a breeze!

Right now the 91 GPS's 50.4 at 4000 RPM. Probably a cam that keeps peak power in the 4800 RPM range.
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TRBenj View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-09-2013 at 1:22pm
Originally posted by Air206 Air206 wrote:

Zach:

I'll bite (since I have a 91 Footer)...Why? To give more clearance for a different prop?

Can one machine it to a shorter length and tap / key the end?

My guess is that the primary reason would be to address the prop/rudder clearance issue thats been discussed on that hull... which would open up prop options with aft raked blades (which perform better, IMHO). Generally speaking though, you want to minimize the strut to prop clearance as much as reasonably possible. Just enough to get a puller in between is ideal- 1/4" to 3/8" (I usually tell people to shoot for 1/2" to stay on the safe side). This will give the best performance benefit, as well as minimize shaft fatigue due to the overhung load.

When modifying shaft length on a traditional (single taper) shaft, its easiest to cut and re-key the coupler end (as opposed to the tapered side)... I think thats what you were saying? Thats exactly what we did on the BFN- took about 1.5" off, for a ~3/8" prop-strut gap.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Air206 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-09-2013 at 11:57am
Zach:

I'll bite (since I have a 91 Footer)...Why? To give more clearance for a different prop?

Can one machine it to a shorter length and tap / key the end?
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phatsat67 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote phatsat67 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-09-2013 at 11:42am
Pete, the company I order shafts from machines them to order. I can pick thred style and single or double taper. Were going to build a short shaft this spring for Marks 91 Footer.
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gR@HaM View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote gR@HaM Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-09-2013 at 4:36am
Ah ok didn't think of that was thinking it is 1 piece machined, shall ask them the question and compare prices.
:)
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8122pbrainard View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-08-2013 at 9:36pm
Originally posted by gR@HaM gR@HaM wrote:

The above description is for a double taper shaft!

Then I assume it will come with the special coupling half.


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77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote gR@HaM Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-08-2013 at 9:20pm
The above description is for a double taper shaft!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-08-2013 at 9:15pm
Graham,
There are several specialty alloys out there that the shaft manufacturers use. I don't feel they are needed unless you run in salt water.

The difference between the ARE system and the manufacturer you looked at is the double taper on the ARE. I don't feel you will get the double taper with anyone else's shaft.


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77 Tique

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Keep it original, Pete
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gR@HaM View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote gR@HaM Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-08-2013 at 9:08pm
Possibly a daft question but what's the difference between this and the ARE (other than price):

Select Aqualoy Shaft that best meets your needs.
Aqualoy 19
This is a nitrogen strengthened Type 304 stainless steel.  Corrosion resistance is superior to Type 304 and better than Aqualoy 17.  Aqualoy 19 shafts have been proven to be successful in several types of boats including sportsfisherman and pleasure crafts. 

Model Number:      SHAFT A-19
Diameter:      1"
Length:      50"
Taper:      Double Taper
Availability:      In Stock, 3-4 days to machine
Price (GBP):      £215.64
'82 Ski Tique
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gR@HaM View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote gR@HaM Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-08-2013 at 9:06pm
Originally posted by phatsat67 phatsat67 wrote:

What kind of prices have you been seeing on the parts Graham worth a call to me. I know I cant compete with delta on the acme propellers but I do have a very cheap outlet for shafts and I might have an nos strut around is that a 154 DV or a 6A6? Shaft is 50" if its the same as the early hull?


Thanks, I shall have a look and get back to you..
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote phatsat67 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-08-2013 at 8:04pm
What kind of prices have you been seeing on the parts Graham worth a call to me. I know I cant compete with delta on the acme propellers but I do have a very cheap outlet for shafts and I might have an nos strut around is that a 154 DV or a 6A6? Shaft is 50" if its the same as the early hull?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Air206 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-08-2013 at 7:33pm
Boat = Break Out Another Thousand!

You will love the Tique once ship-shape........
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote gR@HaM Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-08-2013 at 7:28pm
Thanks guys, looks like I'll put the federal on ice for a bit.

Although I must admit having to now budget for a new prop, shaft and getting the strut fixed is not good for my wallet - especially as I was about to start on the upholstery!!   
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MattB View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MattB Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-08-2013 at 12:28pm
You guys in the US are just spoilt
Props are not in ample supply over here and only very occasionaly come up on ebay for sale so I would say that if you can get that prop re-worked for £50-£60 then IMO its probably worthwhile but ONLY so you have an emergency spare, but as already said they are pretty poor when compared to the newer ones and a newer prop will be worth the cash you spend on it. Dont spend anything on a re-work if you are doing it at the expense of something else though.

DeepBlue are not exactlly a UK supplier despite thier website, they still source thier parts from the US and send them directly so you still get the TAX man wanting his import duty but they do offer a good service that is pretty fast.

If you need to order other parts then its best to save on the delivery from the US as much as you possibly can and get everything from 1 place.
http://www.Skidim.com should have almost everything you might be needing and they were excellent to deal with when I got my A.R.E shaft and sundries.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-08-2013 at 11:39am
Im not sure what props cost over there, but I wouldnt spend a dime reworking an old Federal. Its worth $100 at best in good shape, and yours is pretty heavily damaged. Worth more as an ornament than anything else, at least to me! Id put the money towards a new CNC wheel, as theyre worlds better in terms of performance, especially when it comes to skiing.

The 2nd gen (82-84) Ski Tique uses a very similar hull as the 2nd gen (70-81) Ski Nautique- the main difference being the addition of the tapered chine. The Acme 540 is usually the go-to prop on that boat for all around use, but if youre ok with giving up a little bit of top end, a 542 would handle a little extra weight better.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote gR@HaM Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-08-2013 at 10:55am
Thanks Matt, I was hoping to get the standard prop repaired for the time being (if possible! and if well suited for wakeboarding), but in case not good to know of deepblueyauctsupply being a UK supplyer.

Hi Tim, its a 1982 Ski Tique - which as I understand shares the same hull as 1981 Nautique and earlier.
The engine is Ford 351W and intended for wakeboarding only, ballast (not including passengers) I guess would depend on the wake it throws out - but note this is my first boat of which I am yet to put in the water(!)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-08-2013 at 9:42am
Wow, put that prop on the mantle! Looks to be a federal. Ignore the Oj stamp; it doesn't look like an Oj wheel.

Graham, remind us- you do have a ski Tique and not a nautique, correct? 302 or 351? Hull and powertrain will drive prop selection... As will your intended use. Slalom/barefoot vs. wakeboarding, heavily ballasted, etc. Fill us in.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MattB Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-08-2013 at 7:48am
Wow thats pretty banged up!

I did a quick search and the 13x13 federal looks like the stock prop although to be honest I dont know how the hull changed on the Tique over the years (if at all) and there are some that reported clearance issues with some props, an Acme 540 or a 542 looks like a good option for a replacement.

I would keep the federal as a spare and definately go with either an ACME or OJ. Don't get one ordered until you have confirmed your Shaft is straight as that prop has has some serious abuse!
I found deepblue offered a great price when I ordered mine
http://www.deepblueyachtsupply.co.uk/propellers/acme-props-3blade/ModelNumber/ACME-540
But don't forget http://www.deltaprop.com/ I think there is a site discount with them.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote gR@HaM Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-08-2013 at 6:17am
As the title says, I'm after a 'good' prop choice for my 1982 Tique of which I intent to use primarily for wakeboarding.

After a lot of heat and a big-a$$ home-made puller I finally managed to remove the one that came with the boat, its in pretty poor shape but before I commit to paying to have it re-shaped by a prop shop I want to ensure that this is the correct one I should be running.

Its a Fed (Federal?) OJ 13x13 RH


Here you csan see the damage:





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