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1988 Ignition Switch Wiring Question |
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Florida Inboards 
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Joined: December-27-2012 Location: Panama City, Fl Status: Offline Points: 265 |
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 Topic: 1988 Ignition Switch Wiring QuestionPosted: January-16-2013 at 2:16pm |
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http://www.usboatsupplies.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=COLM700&Category_Code=IgnitionSwitches&Store_Code=USBS&gclid=CMDCxYei7bQCFQ3nnAod2zEADA
Stay away from the cheap plastic switches and get a good Cole Hersee brass ignition switch. they do not strip threads as easily will tighten up and are original style (wow can't say I remember suggesting originality)units |
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Money Talks! BS Walks! and loose change rides the bus!!!
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Bri892001
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Joined: September-27-2008 Location: Boston MA Status: Offline Points: 4947 |
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Posted: January-16-2013 at 1:53pm |
Do you have a picture? It could be just how it mounts in certain applications. Or, you could just get an OEM style switch and take out the guesswork: http://www.nautiqueparts.com/ignitionswitches.aspx |
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frogger88
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Joined: October-13-2012 Location: Wisconsin Status: Offline Points: 25 |
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Posted: January-16-2013 at 1:43pm |
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So what's the post in the middle for? It is threaded like a bolt with a nut on it?
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TRBenj
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Joined: June-29-2005 Location: NWCT Status: Offline Points: 21192 |
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Posted: January-15-2013 at 4:27pm |
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The original switch had:
Battery (B)... red wire Ignition (I)... purple wire Start (S)... most likely yellow/red wire The new switch most likely has an additional terminal (A = accessory). It can be left blank. You can confirm this by seeing if the switch has an extra position (turn to the left). Feel free to wire up a stereo to this terminal in the future, so you can run it while the boat is off without having the ignition hot. |
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frogger88
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Joined: October-13-2012 Location: Wisconsin Status: Offline Points: 25 |
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Posted: January-15-2013 at 4:24pm |
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Hey guys,
I have an '88 whose ignition switch went bad on me. I bought a "universal" replacement (no box or wiring diagram), but it has 4 spades and a post in the middle... Any thoughts on what the proper wiring would be translated from my three post stock switch? I can get the voltmeter and check for continuity tonight if needed. Looked it up online and it looks like it was probably for an I/O or something with a Magneto, can I just leave that disconnected etc... Thanks! |
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frogger88 wrote: