1985 SN stringer job |
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McLovin
Newbie Joined: February-12-2013 Location: Ontario Status: Offline Points: 4 |
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Posted: February-24-2013 at 12:38am |
Computer was acting weird,
So we also removed the wood on the transom. We called it a day after that, and going back tomorrow to grind down the haul and clean up my grinder cuts(was little scared about going through in spots soo I left alot around the hull). Then we'll clean up the stringer that was previously removed, and it looks like it will be a good template. We'll probley call it a day after being in a good place to start Monday when my supplies should be arriving. The thing I was surprised with was the amount of spray foam that is in the front and rear deck lids. I just have never seen it on a boat on this site. Thanks for the reply on the foam. After picking up all that wet and frozen foam I understand the whole no foam idea. The amount of water in that foam to add that much weight was unreal. |
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lakedog55
Gold Member Joined: November-11-2010 Location: Lake Weir Fl Status: Offline Points: 835 |
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Good luck with your project. Great info on this site. I also battled the foam versus no foam. Ended with no foam. Added extra ribs and put two check valves on either side of the mains. Put mine in up near the front very hard to get to when the motor is in. But I felt like that was the lowest point of the hull. I think I hve a picture some where.
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Lakedog55
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McLovin
Newbie Joined: February-12-2013 Location: Ontario Status: Offline Points: 4 |
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Soo I'm having troubles loading pictures but will keep working at it.
Engine was taken out Friday night and all the foam we could see. (I bought the boat with the floor already removed except for the bow area and rear drivers side secondary, and the port side Main and Sec. removed. Eemoved all the hardware on the back(swim platform, exhaust). Also had to wait for the boat to un thawhs Saturday, we(we being my girlfriend who is as amped or more about repairing the boat) cut out the to floor sections and removed the rest of the foam so once I get a picture loaded up you'll see it just the drivers side stringers in the boat. We also removed |
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TRBenj
Grand Poobah Joined: June-29-2005 Location: NWCT Status: Offline Points: 21185 |
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Like tx said, foam only affects your ability to stay afloat when full of water (boat is sunk). It also promotes rot by holding water against wood structural members. The reason people don't put foam back in when rebuilding is so that the boat doesn't carry any extra water under the floor... And if rebuilt with wood, so it doesn't rot. As far as I can tell, you have 2 options:
1. Don't put foam back in. 2. Put foam back in, and take every possible precaution so that water never makes its way under the floor and into the foam. I think that combining a foam rebuild with drains is a recipe for disaster, as those drains also serve as intrusion points that do the exact thing you're trying to avoid (get the foam wet). There are pluses and minuses for refoaming that have been covered ad nauseam. I think you need to make that choice based first (and for the right reasons, not the one you mentioned) and then plan your build from there. |
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TX Foilhead
Grand Poobah Joined: February-01-2009 Location: Kingsland TX Status: Offline Points: 2076 |
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The foam is only going to make the boat float more when it is full of water, a dry boat isn't using foam for flotation it is displacing water.
Ideas on the drains. 1. Having a drain under the stringers at back of the boat allows water to get out from behind the stringer, but it also lets water into the foam. If everything is sealed in epoxy (seams, screws, everything) then there shouldn't be anything to drain. 2. A couple of drains though the transom would be easy to do during the stringer replacement and could be opened when the boat isn't in the water to let gravity get the water out. Downside to this is you don't know if they are leaking. 3. This idea came from Baitkiller, a couple of floor drains sized to match a shopvac hose. Could be opened and checked a if water is found it could be sucked out. I like this one the most. |
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KRoundy
Platinum Member Joined: August-23-2010 Location: Lake Stevens Status: Offline Points: 1702 |
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Welcome to the club!
Something odd is going on with your pictures. Might try that again. Kevin |
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Previous: 1993 Electric Blue/Charcoal Ski Nautique
Current: 2016 Ski Nautique 200 Open Bow |
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DrStevens
Senior Member Joined: October-15-2011 Location: Columbus, OH Status: Offline Points: 422 |
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Dave, best wishes, looking forward to your progress.
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McLovin
Newbie Joined: February-12-2013 Location: Ontario Status: Offline Points: 4 |
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Hello everyone.
My name is Dave. New member to the site but have been read forums for about a year and a half on my quest to find a SN. I missed out on 2 before but finally found one which some might have noticed floating around (listed below)(ignore pics 2,3 and 8). I am going on reading week next week so I will have roughly 8 to 9 days of straight work till it turns into a weekend project. I have collected a lot of knowledge from this site over the past year or so and feel confident in taking this project on. Some questions I have going in though: One involving the foam vs. no foam debate. I'm a skier and want a floaty boat so I believe I will go with the foam unless someone can convince me other wise, The other is drainage from the secondary area into the primary into the bilge. I didn't save the link but saw someone that had drainage cut outs on their secondaries, filled a triangle void up against secondary with sand, then foamed, then removed the foam. It works in my head how the water should just find its way to the void, out the drain, through the primary drain to the bilge. I will be posting pictures of the project as I go along as almost every stringer thread people are always asking for them. Thanks guys herefile:///Users/Emily/Desktop/Dave's%20Things/untitled%20folder/Boat%20Stuff/1985%20CORRECT%20CRAFT%20SKI%20NAUTIQUE%202001%2019%20FT%20SKI%20:%20WAKEBOARD%20BOAT%20in%20Powerboats%20&%20Motorboats%20%7C%20eBay%20Mo.webarchive |
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