How do I get these off?

HW I though of that as well but the threads corroded off. The first time I put a vice grip on the stud the outer wall turned to dust. Same results with a pipe wrench.

Chris

SCORE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Today I met with my welding guy and we tacked a nut onto the stud.

I let it cure a little and gave it another shot of oil for good measure.

One turn of the wrench and it broke free!!!!!

That just saved me a ton of time, money, and work. Now I'm just waiting for my new manifolds to arrive and this little boat will be up and running within a week.

I took pictures of the process but my camera is acting up and it's unable to download to my PC right now. I'll post them as soon as I can for anyone in this predicament in the future.

Chris

You're right Andy.

I thought about the carpet a little too late and realized my mistake after it was covered in corrosion.

I'm dissapointed with myself for being stupid about it, however, I've had great success cleaning marine carpet n the past that was much older and worse off than mine.

It is more work though.

that bolt will come out just make sure you do the left right left rotation to start

Chris and Chris, was this boat on Delhi? I remember one similar on a lift up there.

You"re doing good you've only got one left and you haven't resorted to the real serious stuff yet. Weld a nut on and I bet the last one will pop out easy.

Well the day has arrived. I hacked into the manifolds today with mixed results.

The good news ----- 15 out of 16 bolts came out!!!!

The bad news ----- 15 out of 16 bolts came out.....

All of the bolts forward of the Aft-most cylinders came off really nice after being soaked in ATF/Acetone for a week.

The two most aft cylinder bolts (both port and starboard sides), however, were too far gone to get an allen head in.

I started by taking a cutting head on the dremmel and little by little removing the head of the bolts until I could make out the gap between them and the manifold.







The manifold popped right off exposing my two stems.




I took a chance and put a shot of oil and a vice grip on the first one and it literally spun right out.


The same was not true of the other. As I put a vice grip on it, the threads fell apart and I was too afraid to try again. You can see it in the picture above just above my finger.

I guess my last attempt at getting this one off is going to be the welding method. I hit it with ATF/Acetone about 10 more times before I left today in hopes that it will be ready next weekend when I come back to it.

On the starboard side I was not as gentle because the bolts were in much better shape. Here I used a pneumatic cutting wheel and went to town.


When I got the manifold off, I put a vice grip on the stem and they came right out nice and easy.

So.....literally one bolt lays between me and boating season (in theory). Until it comes out my nerves will be shot for the next week or so.

got ya...just caught my attention and I hadn't seen anyone else ask :)

So maybe someone has already asked, but if the manifolds are cracked due to the PO no winterizing the boat...how do you know they drained the block? Maybe I can learn something :)

i have a pristine set of 428 cj heads from my old jet drive, i bet you could find a bb ford short block to fit in there

the way i weld nuts on is . grind the top of the old bolt head put the new nut on and weld the hole , if you have the option on say a 3/8 manifold bolt i try to use a 7/16 or even a 1/2 " nut over it you have more hole to weld. if you have difficulty getting the nut to stick try and die grind a slot into the top of the bolt so the weld will get into that .

Frankenotter wrote: The risers are in great shape but the lowers are cracked due to winterization from the PO. I will be trying the welding technique for sure. I've also been reading a ton of info on ford sites about the miracles of PB Blaster. Anyone want to chime in on the ATF/Acetone vs. PB Blaster oils????

8122pbrainard wrote: Here's the list of torque requirements copied from the other thread: Penetrating oil ..... Average load None ...................... 516 pounds WD-40 ................... 238 pounds PB Blaster ............... 214 pounds Liquid Wrench ......... 127 pounds Kano Kroil .............. 106 pounds ATF-Acetone mix.......53 pounds I don't even consider WD40 to be a penetrating oil so that puts PB at the bottom for me. Kroil is a on line order only so when I was taking my 1927 Flexifour apart and trying to break the rusted pistons loose, I did pick up a can of PB. A week went by with no luck and then the Kroil came in. The next day after using some of the Kroil, all four pistons were loose. I ended up using the PB as a honing lubricant!

Evidently the Ford guys on those sites fall for "Madison avenue marketing" BS and they shop at HD!!

If you fail at getting them out, a machine shop with an EDM can burn them out. It may be cheaper than a new set of manifolds and risers.

The risers are in great shape but the lowers are cracked due to winterization from the PO.

I will be trying the welding technique for sure.

I've also been reading a ton of info on ford sites about the miracles of PB Blaster. Anyone want to chime in on the ATF/Acetone vs. PB Blaster oils????

Well the bolts have been soaking in oil all week so I came back to them today for a test.

It didn't go well.

All I've done so far is the riser bolts (haven't even touched the manifold bolts which are in 10X worse shape).

Broke 3/4 after using ATF/Acetone mix and sitting for 4 days. These don't matter because the lowers are garbage anyway but it makes me nervous for the big show.