Boats For Sale:
Underwater Gear Replace Order of Operations |
Post Reply 
|
| Author | |
RedandWhite73 
Senior Member 
Joined: October-03-2011 Location: Minnesota Status: Offline Points: 135 |
 Post Options
 Thanks(0)
 Quote Reply
 Topic: Underwater Gear Replace Order of OperationsPosted: April-30-2013 at 10:51am |
|
It looks like my picture files are too large. Any way around this?
|
|
 |
|
|
RedandWhite73
Senior Member
Joined: October-03-2011 Location: Minnesota Status: Offline Points: 135 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: April-30-2013 at 10:46am |
|
Is the 4200/5200 used to seal the bolt holes, or do you bed the entire fixture in it?
I included a picture of the Brazilian I gave my boat on a rock pile. It looks like the previous owner tried unsuccessfully to paint it red. |
|
|
|
|
Waternut
Senior Member
Joined: July-11-2012 Location: Macon, GA Status: Offline Points: 292 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: April-29-2013 at 3:40pm |
|
I personally would pull every removable panel, seat, etc. until I found the leak. Replacing the packing isn't hard but I wouldn't touch it until I know that it's leaking too much. If you find a leak coming from underneath or around a previous repair, you need to fix that immediately or it's going to get a lot worse. If it's just coming from around the underwater gear, just pull that piece off and reseal with with the 4200 or 5200. Most marine or outdoor stores should have that stuff. You'll want fast cure 5200 (white tube with red highlights) if you want to use the boat in the next week. Regular 5200 (white tube with blue highlights) takes about a week to cure.
|
|
|
|
|
RedandWhite73
Senior Member
Joined: October-03-2011 Location: Minnesota Status: Offline Points: 135 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: April-29-2013 at 10:54am |
|
The impact was pretty hard and the cracks around the strut were visible on the inside of the boat. The bottom isn't in pristine condition, so the gel coat doesn't exactly shine. Anyway, I ground around the cracks about a foot in every direction, fiber glassed the inside and the outside, then ground it back as close to the original shape as I could.
I will get pictures this evening when I get home from work. I also had a little bit of a leak in the boat the last time it was in. I replaced the plug and inspected the bottom of the boat and couldn't figure out where the water was coming from. Could the stuffing box be the culprit? This would seem to be the time to repack it. Where can I buy rope packing? I will also send pictures of the log/stuffing box. |
|
|
|
|
8122pbrainard
Grand Poobah 
Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41045 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: April-29-2013 at 7:42am |
|
Dan,
5200 and 4200 are 3M polyurethane adhesive sealants. No, the log and stuffing box are not the same. The log is the brass fitting glassed into the hull at the prop shaft hole. The stuffing box is attached to the log via the section of rubber hose and is where the rope packing goes. I assume you found cracks in at least the gel so you glassed over the strut holes? Did you grind all the old gel off to see if the cracking went any deeper? Did you maintain the same hull elevation for the strut base? Any pictures? |
|
|
|
|
RedandWhite73
Senior Member
Joined: October-03-2011 Location: Minnesota Status: Offline Points: 135 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: April-28-2013 at 11:01pm |
|
Peter,
Three quick questions: 1. What are 5200, 4200? 2. Are the log and the stuffing box the same thing? 3. I fiber-glassed over the old strut holes, however they are still on the inside. I was planning on using the same hole locations since the old and new strut are the same and have identical bolt patterns. Should I bolt the strut to the boat, check as shaft as you described previously, then permanently attach with the (I assume bonding agent) 5200/4200? Thanks, -DC |
|
|
|
|
8122pbrainard
Grand Poobah
Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41045 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: April-28-2013 at 4:32pm |
|
Dan,
Start with the strut. Insert the shaft in the strut and the hull log. Take the weight off the forward end of the shaft and see if the shaft turns freely while it's centered in the log. If it doesn't turn freely, then you will need to shim the strut. From that point, you can move forward to the engine. I always recommend 5200 for bedding but some say it's too tough to get off at a later date. So, then it's 4200. |
|
|
|
|
RedandWhite73
Senior Member
Joined: October-03-2011 Location: Minnesota Status: Offline Points: 135 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: April-28-2013 at 4:13pm |
|
Spring has finally srung in Minnesota. I pulled my boat from storage yesterday and have starting to fix everything from the mini-catastrophe. I hit a rock pile and destroyed the prop, strut, sheared off the rudder, and bent the shaft.
I have already completed the fiberglass and just wanted to run my plan by the board to see if anyone has any suggestions. I plan to install the replacement drive shaft first, then install the strut so it can be adjusted with washers for alignment. What do I use to bed the strut? Then I will install the prop and lastly the rudder. Any advice on the rudder installation? I am a little apprehensive I damaged the cabling as well. Thanks, Dan |
|
|
|
|
Post Reply
|
|
Tweet
|
| Forum Jump | Forum Permissions You cannot post new topics in this forum You cannot reply to topics in this forum You cannot delete your posts in this forum You cannot edit your posts in this forum You cannot create polls in this forum You cannot vote in polls in this forum |
Topic Options